Service Advancetrac, lights and steering HELP

[ronemca]

I would have reloaded it to stock so everything is back to ground zero as in all settings. Then reload the tune I had problems with bama tune and I did that and everything was back to normal.

More good advice! The possibility of a corrupted tune did not occur to me, and therefore a Return To Stock should be step #1 for sure.

As an aside...
Your question about the sequence of loading/unloading/RTS with regard to tune files is something I have also wondered about. When your programmer needs updating, the utility always (and firmly) instructs you to RTS in case something goes awry with the updating. Presumably they wouldn't be so rigid about this unless they deemed it important. Okay. But if you have a non-stock file installed in your car -- and you want to install a different non-stock tune -- should you have to RTS first? then upload the new file? Or should you just jump straight over (without RTS on the way)? I have arbitrarily chosen to jump straight across when I do this. And your specific issue jives with that; you uploaded a non-stock tune...then you RE- uploaded the same non-stock tune again. In theory this should work fine, unless that tune file was corrupt inside the programmer...and/or there was some hiccup during the file transfer process in your driveway. It's hard to say. But - bottom line - RTS immediately and proceed from there.

$0.02

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[Pauliejr]

Tried the tune reload same issue. I also looked for any losse ground however it very hard to know what it could be I just righted every bolt I saw lol.

Strange this is even after I pull the battery power let it sit, and reposed the car. The lights are still there which is strange. Same thing. I roll forward it all goes away. Start to drive the car holds back and all lights come on and steering goes.

I had time to check the abs sensors on the front and rear passenger side and they look fine. Didn’t get a change to look at the rest but I have no idea what this could be. For now still has a 2 week wait for service.

Something I did notice is that after I turn the car off and turn it back on I move forward and all goes away. If I stop the car and sit they stay off. However I can access line lock and if I go to acces data such as past 0-60 it said car must be stopped to view. Even though it is stopped.

 

[Racerx009]

Tried the tune reload same issue. I also looked for any losse ground however it very hard to know what it could be I just righted every bolt I saw lol.

Strange this is even after I pull the battery power let it sit, and reposed the car. The lights are still there which is strange. Same thing. I roll forward it all goes away. Start to drive the car holds back and all lights come on and steering goes.

I had time to check the abs sensors on the front and rear passenger side and they look fine. Didn’t get a change to look at the rest but I have no idea what this could be. For now still has a 2 week wait for service.

Something I did notice is that after I turn the car off and turn it back on I move forward and all goes away. If I stop the car and sit they stay off. However I can access line lock and if I go to acces data such as past 0-60 it said car must be stopped to view. Even though it is stopped.

You have to bring to the dealership for them to diagnose it. If you added any electronics to your car they are going to give you a hard time. So if you did add something go over your work also you can check all your fuses. On my 14 mustang gt tech package the whole system went down I tried everything I was out of warranty So I traded it in for my 17 mustang gt. The dealer called me a week later and asked if I did anything to the electronics. I said nope he said someone changed the computer. I said good luck with that but I never did anything to the system.

 

[Pauliejr]

I have the Tesla screen installed and a passport radar/laser gamer system installed.

I have that powered off the power of the console cig lighter power lines. And the head unit was a plug and play unit.

I’m sure the dealer is going to hound me about things done to the car. I unfortunately can’t get to the dealer for 2 weeks. So I’m trying to self diagnose.

 

[Racerx009]

I have the Tesla screen installed and a passport radar/laser gamer system installed.

I have that powered off the power of the console cig lighter power lines. And the head unit was a plug and play unit.

I’m sure the dealer is going to hound me about things done to the car. I unfortunately can’t get to the dealer for 2 weeks. So I’m trying to self diagnose.

Maybe try calling telsa on Tuesday and ask them if they had issues like the one you are having.

 

[Racerx009]

I know it may be a pain in ass but how about unplug the system and see what happens .
Also did you check for any trouble codes using the sct ???

 

[Pauliejr]

I know it may be a pain in ass but how about unplug the system and see what happens .
Also did you check for any trouble codes using the sct ???

UPDATE.

I got the car into my local mustang performance shop and they cleared all the codes that were stored and diagnosed it.

The right rear wheel is reading 160mph!

And I believe he said possible a code for the abs ring? He believes the sensor is fine if it is communicating.

So I have eliminated another issue or electrical possibility and it is definitely this area.

I believe the abs communicator ring in this car is built into the rear hub correct? Maybe I should order a replacement rear hun assembly and also a new sensor while I’m at it.

I would hope this fixes the issue. Does this sound like it could be the culprits of all the issues?

 

[Racerx009]

Before you go dropping money on parts just get it fixed correctly. It will cost less than throwing parts in it

 

[Pauliejr]

Before you go dropping money on parts just get it fixed correctly. It will cost less than throwing parts in it

I’ve read multiple cases where it was the rear hub. The code said the right rear sensor/ abs ring.

The hub assembly is $78 willing to take the hit if it’s not the problem and not have to wait 2 weeks for a service appointment where they will charge me 10x that


Just seeing if anything thinks that this makes sense. Might as well get a $20 sensor while I’m at it.

I’m installing my rear adjustable shocks anyway this week so I’ll already be in there

 

[Pauliejr]

Also like I stated. The scanned tray over 150mph on the right rear sensor while I was sitting still

 

[Racerx009]

Also like I stated. The scanned tray over 150mph on the right rear sensor while I was sitting still

Well good luck and make sure install it with the battery disconnected for the hell of it. Then use your SCT to check for any codes you can clear them. Keep me advised and good luck

 

[lisandra]

Had this issue and dealer replaced the ecu. Apparently a bad ground can completely brick it. So even if you tighten it the computer is fried

 

[Pauliejr]

Had this issue and dealer replaced the ecu. Apparently a bad ground can completely brick it. So even if you tighten it the computer is fried

Did you have any codes for speed sensors faulty reading ? I would venture to say I’d have a code for a bad exit if it was bricked

 

[Pauliejr]

UPDATE: I Found play in my driver rear hub and was getting a code for the passenger rear. I ordered 2 replacements.

I replaced drivers hub and sensor, no fix.

I replaced passenger hub and sensor and BOOM. all is gone.

 

[bmatt]

Did you all get any codes and/or an ABS light with yours? I checked for codes with my nguage but it doesn't find anything but I only get a very brief advancetrac light on mine, never ABS. It seems like a grounding issue to me since it pops up and goes away quickly, but it could be the hub sensor too I suppose. I see my data logs have a single MPH reading, I'll have to plug it in and see if it can get a reading on individual wheels or if it may spike. Mine started after a hard braking incident and went away for a while, just had it happen a couple of times over the last couple of days again.

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