Rear toe and camber adjustment

[Myweepony]

Good morning all.

When setting the toe.
Can any of the suspension gurus tell me what the graduations on the washer equate to and what the significance of the hole in the washer is?
When adjusting, I take it you undo the nut while holding the bolt head stationary. Then adjust by moving the bolt head slightly one way or t'other. Which direction will give you toe in or out, cw or acw? If it's cw on one side of the car is it acw on the other side to give the same movement in or out?

When setting the camber.
If you slacken the nuts and push the top of the wheel against the stops does anyone know roughly what negative camber this will give you? If it depends on how much the car is lowered can you give camber and amount lowered.

Ta very much your help is always appreciated.:cheers:

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[Lone Survivor]

I don't think you'll get a definitive answer to the measurements side of your question, I know you want rough measurements, are you after a particular set up?

If so best getting a reputable laser alignment person to do it. For about £60-90 they will be able to set up for any scenario you want, i.e., fast road, track etc.

One of the traders or our resident suspension guru [MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION] will be able to answer better.

This is my set up, fast road, before and after with FRPP track pack, so uprated shocks, springs, toe bolts, drop links and sway bars (on the middle setting). I've been told that my car sits very flat when cornering, viewed from behind, this is what I think as well. It was set up by a motorsport shop to suit everyday life. There is no adverse tyre wear, no squeaks or groans (except passengers ). Hope it helps in some way.

 

[Myweepony]

At some stage I'll be fitting the Pedders suspension.

I've got a camber gauge, I've made myself a set of toe plates and I have a trakrite gadgy.
Basically, I want to know roughly what does what so I can get me in the right ball park. I can find out myself through trial and error but it just takes longer that way.

I was going to use Gibbo's settings for his road setup and then once I figure I'm close I can take it to the alignment shop.

 

[Lone Survivor]

Cool, I gave the shop Gibbos as well for a ball park figure. You seem to be more tooled up for your own work. I'm too old to be lying under cars these days

 

[Myweepony]

Aye, so am I. I'm of the age and size where rolling around on the floor has it's downsides.

But I've nowt else to do and I quite enjoy messing around. I try to keep it to a minimum if I can though.

 

[Gibbo205]

George settings above are absolutely fine, that is essentially the ball park you want to be looking out for camber and toe.

Some have reports as high as -3.00 rear camber either side if you max it out on a lower car, but nothing is certain.

Rear toe is eccentric bolt, I can't for the life of me remember what direction does what. As much fun as it is to set it up by hand the old fashioned way, I'd simply not waste my time doing it, fit the stuff, find a local garage with a decent alignment machine and get it on the ramp where you can adjust on the fly in realtime with easy access to everything.

George settings are pretty spot on for fast road (dry), a touch less on the camber front and rear, with a touch more toe in at the rear for more traction, particular wet.

If track use, then leave rear toe as is, neutralise front toe and dial in more camber, particular front.

But unfortunately I cannot just say, yep turn this bolt to this, max this out and you will be at these settings, this is why a modern alignment rack/machine is a godsend as it turns hours of work into minutes.

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