Rear diff oil for non PP

[sloppymax]

After searching it seems like everyone who has replaced the diff oil and posted about it has been a PP owner. I know the weight specs are the same for the Torsen and the clutch system on the non PPs. I am curious if any of the non PP owners have found the amount of FM to be adequate in whatever brand they chose.

I found in my 2012 GT that the RP 75w140 did not have enough FM and I had to use around half a bottle of the Ford FM. I would like to get the break in material out and just looking for any insight.

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[NavyChief]

I just did mine with 3.55 gear. 3 quarts of Royal purple 75-90 no fiction modifier and it's perfect.

 

[Cascadia_302]

Interesting, l had no idea that what's in there from the factory is break-in oil?
How many miles do you have on the car now?

Is this the same oil you used in your '12?

http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal...tV1&year=2015&model=GT&T5_Var3=blue&GID=45006

 

[2015 Silver GT]

The factory fill isn't meant to be changed right away because of some break in oil. There is no necessary maintenance needed for a long time. Read the owners manual.

 

[sloppymax]

By break in material, I am referring the shavings that inevitably occur from the ring and pinion. I am not suggesting the oil is a break in oil, hence the word material. I know Ford uses a solid synthetic oil and I have read the manual. I know I only need two quarts as opposed to the almost three I needed on the 12. I just wanted to see if anyone had experience with the FM formula in whatever brand being enough for the clutch packs.

The link does show what I used in my old 12 GT but the weight specification for the 15/16 is much lighter at 75W85. Seems like most of the guys who have replaced their, albeit with Torsens went with 75W90 since it is more common among the Amsoil, RP and Redline offerings.

 

[NavyChief]

The factory fill isn't meant to be changed right away because of some break in oil. There is no necessary maintenance needed for a long time. Read the owners manual.

You might want to pull your plugs and look at the crap on the metal plugs. Need to get it out look at my plugs at only 6k miles.

You want to drive your car with that shit in it go for it. Play with fire.

 

[NavyChief]

Here is after cleaning them.

 

[Optimum Performance]

By break in material, I am referring the shavings that inevitably occur from the ring and pinion. I am not suggesting the oil is a break in oil, hence the word material. I know Ford uses a solid synthetic oil and I have read the manual. I know I only need two quarts as opposed to the almost three I needed on the 12. I just wanted to see if anyone had experience with the FM formula in whatever brand being enough for the clutch packs.

The link does show what I used in my old 12 GT but the weight specification for the 15/16 is much lighter at 75W85. Seems like most of the guys who have replaced their, albeit with Torsens went with 75W90 since it is more common among the Amsoil, RP and Redline offerings.

If using Ford Factory Fluids you need 1.5 Liters of axle lube, 4 oz of FM. It's why we put a kit together with BG Products Ultra-Guard LS. It already has the additive package needed for Traction-Loc / Limited Slip differentials with clutch packs.

 

[sloppymax]

Just an FYI for anyone else looking for the answer for the clutches in the non PP. I used Redline 75W-90 that contains friction modifier. I did get some chatter so I put in half the bottle of Ford FM, which is about 2 oz and all was good.

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