OP
OP
oesman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Threads
- 24
- Messages
- 407
- Reaction score
- 110
- Location
- Houston, TX
- First Name
- Dmitry
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mustang GT PP
- Thread starter
- #31
If you have the nGauge, which I'm assuming you do unless you bought some kind of tuner kit. You should be able to log right from it. Set it in gauge mode and then tap it and click start logging. Then click again to stop after making a few runs (don't keep making runs if you have knock or bad AFR). I highly recommend you use that nGauge. I installed mine in the air vent, pic attached. The log interpretation may or may not be something you want to learn, you can always just send the log to PC and ask whats up or share it here. I use EFI's MegaLogViewer HD, which is fairly cheap and is cross platform (mac for me).
I would highly advise you to run gauges full time and look at them when you start running your car hard. The ngauge can provide a lot of these as can your dash gauges. The reason this is important is because you don't want to be doing a bunch of pulls with something wrong. The gauges I have it displaying are spark advance, knock retard, fuel duty cycle, and air fuel ratio. You can also display the air fuel ratio in your dash gauges in case you prefer that. Essentially when running hard you want to know that:
1. You're getting a good AFR (~11.5 afr or <0.8 lambda).
2. You're not seeing timing pulled from knock.
3. Your fuel system is working.
4. Your oil pressure is adequate.
5. Your engine temperature is safe.
Note: Negative knock retard numbers are not bad, positive numbers are.
I have seen people make repeat runs on high output FI cars without looking at gauges and results can be very poor. My buddy blew his first supra engine that way. He was driving a lot of voltage to his fuel pump, running a big single turbo and nitrous. The fuel pump started to fail, his data logging showed him making several runs racing someone with it failing. He simply ignored his gauges and eventually blew it up after turning on his nitrous system to beat someone he was losing to (which was probably due to the poor fueling in the first place...)
Ultimately you're asking to nearly double your horsepower, there's no free lunch in life, this isn't really "safe" like a factory car. There are definitely things that can go very wrong. That voltage booster thing can fail, it's pressure sending unit can fail, your fuel pump can fail, etc...
I'm not trying to scare you, once it's all setup it should be a good trouble free system, but also don't kid yourself as far as safety vs. stock. You can probably get the tune right and just drive it, maybe nothing will ever fail and it will be fine. But it doesn't hurt to pay attention if you don't want to risk a relatively expensive engine swap.
You should also consider a boost pressure gauge, some have swapped in the gauges from the Ecoboost PP into their GT PP, but there is question as to how accurate it is, I think it's using MAF data or something. You should just get a good boost gauge. A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea too!
I'm gonna have to do the same. I gapped at .032 and got the same NGKs. I'm sure once it's all setup it will be trouble free, it's a very high quality kit as far as kits go.After a few heat cycles I when back and tightened all the worm clamps and reset the drive belt ... I have not had to touch anything from that point on , and I do have a lot of trouble free passes on the motor plus a lot of pulls on the dyno for the custom tune ..Haven't touched the NGK plugs since I installed them gapped at 32 ... Its a very trouble free system once done .. Tire wear seems to be a problem but that is it
[MENTION=19360]Bartly[/MENTION],
I'm attaching the pic of the markings for the tensioner, hope it helps.
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