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OPG/CS, what gears and what did you pay (if you had someone else do it)?

jmagnus87

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so to do this job, you have to pull the timing chains and all that too right? otherwise you're not getting the sprocket off the crank and you're not getting the oil pump out of there. seems like a pretty big job to me, how do you keep the cams and such exactly where they are when you pull the chains? can you pin the tensioners with them still in the car?
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Slopoke

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so to do this job, you have to pull the timing chains and all that too right? otherwise you're not getting the sprocket off the crank and you're not getting the oil pump out of there. seems like a pretty big job to me, how do you keep the cams and such exactly where they are when you pull the chains? can you pin the tensioners with them still in the car?

You don't have to lock the cams into position. The removal and re-installation of the chains is quite easy. Just follow the service manual and if you use an aftermarket sprcket, make sure you get a reputable unit. Some have complained that the timing marks are wrong.
 
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vaeevictiss

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You don't have to lock the cams into position. The removal and re-installation of the chains is quite easy. Just follow the service manual and if you use an aftermarket sprcket, make sure you get a reputable unit. Some have complained that the timing marks are wrong.
Seems like everyone is using boundary gears. Take it they fixed their issues it seems like they had a few years ago?
 

Racinjason65

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The shop I use charges $1,500 for the labor, but if you get other work done at the same time like cams or head studs, they don’t stack a ton of extra labor on their bill and their prices are very fair. I went with MMR gears on 2 motors so far and will be buying a 3rd set in the next week or so for a 3rd. For a while there were questions about their tolerances/
quality but I believe that bad rap was from some Chinese knock off parts. Their genuine parts are made in house on top of the line Haas CNC machines that hold extremely tight tolerances.
 
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vaeevictiss

vaeevictiss

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The shop I use charges $1,500 for the labor, but if you get other work done at the same time like cams or head studs, they don’t stack a ton of extra labor on their bill and their prices are very fair. I went with MMR gears on 2 motors so far and will be buying a 3rd set in the next week or so for a 3rd. For a while there were questions about their tolerances/
quality but I believe that bad rap was from some Chinese knock off parts. Their genuine parts are made in house on top of the line Haas CNC machines that hold extremely tight tolerances.
Ya I just ordered a set of Boundary Gears. I even heard of them having some issues years back but everyone I talked to whether it be someone with a boosted mustang or a shop that did them, recommended Boundary. I guess there's no guarantee on anything not breaking, but seeing a video of stock gears practically exploding when put under a hydraulic press and then the boundary gears just kinda deforming because I guess the alloy being softer, I feel a little safer. Now, softer metal wears more, so how long with will they last in that aspect? Who knows. But I've have my car almost 2 years and just cracked 10k miles so while it technically is a daily driver, it doesn't get driven much. I also get a work vehicle for at least 3 months of the year so that helps too.
 

Racinjason65

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Ya I just ordered a set of Boundary Gears. I even heard of them having some issues years back but everyone I talked to whether it be someone with a boosted mustang or a shop that did them, recommended Boundary. I guess there's no guarantee on anything not breaking, but seeing a video of stock gears practically exploding when put under a hydraulic press and then the boundary gears just kinda deforming because I guess the alloy being softer, I feel a little safer. Now, softer metal wears more, so how long with will they last in that aspect? Who knows. But I've have my car almost 2 years and just cracked 10k miles so while it technically is a daily driver, it doesn't get driven much. I also get a work vehicle for at least 3 months of the year so that helps too.
There’s different opinions on material choice, strength that Can come with brittleness or softer material that can wear more quickly. I’ll probably wear out bearings, rings and pistons more frequently than most normal people, so those as wearable items aren’t a huge concern. I’ll also be sending oil samples to Blackstone every other oil change to monitor any irregular wear to hopefully catch and address before I damage and high dollar items (like the $6k Sonny Bryant billet stroker crank going in the gen 3 5.3 I’m building)
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