OPG/CS Install 2019

[roomk101]

Picked up a Whipple Stage 2 kit last week, getting prepped for doing that install, and doing a lot of reading...
(Sigh, here it comes...) Since I'll be halfway there, I'm thinking I'm just going to do the OPG/CS. The Stage 2 brings anther 300 rpms, and I just don't want to think about it every time I get on that right pedal.

I've seen a few video walk-throughs on doing the OPG/CS install on the Gen 2. Seems like the timing is the same for the Gen 3, but I have to drop the oil pan. Anyone have tips/tricks/advice/resources they can share specific to the Gen 3? A service manual clip would be amazing if anyone has it.
Much appreciated.

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[Adamone92]

there are a couple pretty good write ups on here, a few even link to a ford service manual. Currently on my phone so its a bit harder for me to find them..but i just recently did this install and a vmp odin kit the past week or two. MAKE SURE that when you have your new crank sprocket, that the timing mark on it matches the timing mark on your factory one. I did the entire install, and odin install as well, only to be off a couple teeth. Went back, racking my brain over how i could have possibly messed up, and it turned out my BOUNDARY crank sprocket was marked 2 teeth incorrectly. It was marked at 11 teeth from the keyway, whereas my stock sprocket was marked at 13 teeth. Both had the same amount of total teeth obviously, so i marked the boundary sprocket at 13 teeth to match, and everything lined up exactly how they should have. Im hoping to start it up again tonight or tomorrow and hopefully be good to go.

Parts if it were a pain. Annoying. But overall not bad, just time consuming. Zander13 and VMP both have pretty good videos on it. As well as speed addict (that helps zander in his video). Also honestly, while it may seem bad to have to drop the oil pan, i might actually prefer this instead of having to do bolts into the oil pickup tube. Ive seen threads where people really struggled with that. I didnt touch the back two bolts of the oil pan at all btw, it lowered without even loosening them.

My only real tips are to make sure you have the right tools. If you have an auto make sure you have something to lock out the torque converter while cranking the crank bolt. If manual just have it in gear. I would also recommend an under the hood light from harbor freight or something similar to be able to see better, a headlamp light is useful too. If you dont have the tool to remove the passenger side fuel line (2018+) i used a sharpie cap that I can explain more if you need me to. I also highly recommend taking out the battery and battery cover as it will provide more room to reach the back of the intake manifold. Also, when I lowered the oil pan, I didnt even need to touch the back two bolts. I left them as they were.

I rented the harmonic balancer puller and installer both from auto zone if you need the part numbers.

Organization is key to helping have all the correct bolts to put things back on. I kept and labeled zip lock bags for each parts bolts. I also had pictures of parts before I removed them so I could see what bolts went where.

The torque to yield bolts for the oil pump housing are torque to yield, I accidentally broke one due to a faulty torque wrench, so just replacing them/having spares is a good idea. I picked up replacements from local Ford shop for like 12$.

A low profile torque wrench is how I got the tough to reach oil pan bolt above the steering rack (you'll know the one) on and off. Highly recommend. Bought from autozone/O'Reillys for like 15$. a 10mm racheting wrench is also very useful for a couple of the bolts/nuts connecting the lower part of the timing cover to the oil pan.

Timing the car was easy (I hope. I'll see when I crank it lol). Just make sure when you line up the colored links, look closely at the notch that is on the teeth. Not just the arrow with the "L" or "R). I didnt notice the notch at first and once I got both chains on, realized I was a tooth off. When you get the passenger side chain on, you can re-verify your driver side is still in time by counting links between marks. Start one linked after the "L" and count to one link before the timing mark on the crank sprocket. Should be 31 links. I'm crazy so I counted about 5 times before I put everything back on. A small handheld mirror will help you see the timing mark and the marked chain link when installing the passenger side chain.

I ended up removing my front sway bar and radiator fans as well to allow more room to reach the engine, as well as the coolant degas bottle. Removing the sway bar is definitely not required though.

That's all I can really think of off the top of my head. If you have any questions while doing it you can message me or ask here. I generally reply fast and dont mind helping (I'm not a pro by any means, but I did just do this twice so it's still fresh in my mind)

 

[roomk101]

there are a couple pretty good write ups on here, a few even link to a ford service manual. Currently on my phone so its a bit harder for me to find them..but i just recently did this install and a vmp odin kit the past week or two. MAKE SURE that when you have your new crank sprocket, that the timing mark on it matches the timing mark on your factory one. I did the entire install, and odin install as well, only to be off a couple teeth. Went back, racking my brain over how i could have possibly messed up, and it turned out my BOUNDARY crank sprocket was marked 2 teeth incorrectly. It was marked at 11 teeth from the keyway, whereas my stock sprocket was marked at 13 teeth. Both had the same amount of total teeth obviously, so i marked the boundary sprocket at 13 teeth to match, and everything lined up exactly how they should have. Im hoping to start it up again tonight or tomorrow and hopefully be good to go.

Parts if it were a pain. Annoying. But overall not bad, just time consuming. Zander13 and VMP both have pretty good videos on it. As well as speed addict (that helps zander in his video). Also honestly, while it may seem bad to have to drop the oil pan, i might actually prefer this instead of having to do bolts into the oil pickup tube. Ive seen threads where people really struggled with that. I didnt touch the back two bolts of the oil pan at all btw, it lowered without even loosening them.

My only real tips are to make sure you have the right tools. If you have an auto make sure you have something to lock out the torque converter while cranking the crank bolt. If manual just have it in gear. I would also recommend an under the hood light from harbor freight or something similar to be able to see better, a headlamp light is useful too. If you dont have the tool to remove the passenger side fuel line (2018+) i used a sharpie cap that I can explain more if you need me to. I also highly recommend taking out the battery and battery cover as it will provide more room to reach the back of the intake manifold. Also, when I lowered the oil pan, I didnt even need to touch the back two bolts. I left them as they were.

I rented the harmonic balancer puller and installer both from auto zone if you need the part numbers.

Organization is key to helping have all the correct bolts to put things back on. I kept and labeled zip lock bags for each parts bolts. I also had pictures of parts before I removed them so I could see what bolts went where.

The torque to yield bolts for the oil pump housing are torque to yield, I accidentally broke one due to a faulty torque wrench, so just replacing them/having spares is a good idea. I picked up replacements from local Ford shop for like 12$.

A low profile torque wrench is how I got the tough to reach oil pan bolt above the steering rack (you'll know the one) on and off. Highly recommend. Bought from autozone/O'Reillys for like 15$. a 10mm racheting wrench is also very useful for a couple of the bolts/nuts connecting the lower part of the timing cover to the oil pan.

Timing the car was easy (I hope. I'll see when I crank it lol). Just make sure when you line up the colored links, look closely at the notch that is on the teeth. Not just the arrow with the "L" or "R). I didnt notice the notch at first and once I got both chains on, realized I was a tooth off. When you get the passenger side chain on, you can re-verify your driver side is still in time by counting links between marks. Start one linked after the "L" and count to one link before the timing mark on the crank sprocket. Should be 31 links. I'm crazy so I counted about 5 times before I put everything back on. A small handheld mirror will help you see the timing mark and the marked chain link when installing the passenger side chain.

I ended up removing my front sway bar and radiator fans as well to allow more room to reach the engine, as well as the coolant degas bottle. Removing the sway bar is definitely not required though.

That's all I can really think of off the top of my head. If you have any questions while doing it you can message me or ask here. I generally reply fast and dont mind helping (I'm not a pro by any means, but I did just do this twice so it's still fresh in my mind)

Wow, really appreciate the detailed write-up!

Good looking out on the low-profile wrench, I'll pick one up. Wouldn't mind the rental puller/installer part numbers when you have time.

My car does have the A10 trans, could you give a little more detail on how / what I'll need to lock out the torque converter?

Thanks again

 

[Adamone92]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...timing-procedure-ford-doc.53162/#post-1278898

the procedure with the 2018+ are almost identical, just a few small differences in parts. but this should still help a lot

 

[Adamone92]

Wow, really appreciate the detailed write-up!

Good looking out on the low-profile wrench, I'll pick one up. Wouldn't mind the rental puller/installer part numbers when you have time.

My car does have the A10 trans, could you give a little more detail on how / what I'll need to lock out the torque converter?

Thanks again

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...ong-reach-harmonic-balancer-puller/787830_0_0
is the installer i used

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...IgnoreVehicle=false&isSearchByPartNumber=true
is the puller (admittedly, a smaller 3 jaw Chrysler puller might work better. this one is a bit big. Make sure to use a 21mm deep socket between whatever puller you use and the crank snout to protect it. the long end of the socket goes around the puller bolt if that makes sense.

as far as holding the torque converter, i used a couple handled crowbars wedged in between the harmonic balancer and the timing cover to hold it. (idk if thats the best method, but it worked) My buddy @sigintel helped me a lot with a later issue i had, but he made a tool to hold his flywheel. I believe there are also flywheel holding tools you can find that i didnt discover really until i finished it all.

edit: i didnt "discover" the mustang one because they really werent easy to find and even ford dealership service people couldnt steer me in a good direction for it.

 

[roomk101]

Awesome, thanks again. Whipple is supposed to take another 3-ish weeks to ship out (hopefully less). Will report back once I get into the install.

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