Oil Weight Question

[5LITER]

Motorcraft is junk? Please explain. Just curious, i thought it was good from what ive read.

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[Eritas]

Sure if you only drive on the street, never rev the car out and drive it hard, or use a GT350 or 500 for what it was intended, then a 0W30 would probably be fine. But it wouldn't be under hard use, while the 5W50 or a 0W40 would be fine in a DD or from hard use.

If Motorcraft is so bad, why do they use it in the GT350 & GT4 racecars?

 

[mustang_guy]

Sure if you only drive on the street, never rev the car out and drive it hard, or use a GT350 or 500 for what it was intended, then a 0W30 would probably be fine. But it wouldn't be under hard use, while the 5W50 or a 0W40 would be fine in a DD or from hard use.

If Motorcraft is so bad, why do they use it in the GT350 & GT4 racecars?

I agree with most of your first paragraph. Some of the guys bought their cars with no intent to use it as a track car unfortunately. 0w30 is okay for some moderate play. 5w50 is not a street suitable due to high oil pressures. 40 weight is the king of being well rounded.

Marketing, just because they use it doesn't make it good. The fact it can't stay a 50w for more then 1000 miles is laughable.

 

[Eritas]

I agree with most of your first paragraph. Some of the guys bought their cars with no intent to use it as a track car unfortunately. 0w30 is okay for some moderate play. 5w50 is not a street suitable due to high oil pressures. 40 weight is the king of being well rounded.

Marketing, just because they use it doesn't make it good. The fact it can't stay a 50w for more then 1000 miles is laughable.

5w50 is perfectly street able because there are thousands of GT350s, Road Runners, GT500s, Coyote "track pack" and Ford GTs running around with it with no problems.

Maybe the fact that it shears down is part of it's design parameters for the engine, and thus, maybe using an even thicker 5W50 from Redline or Amsoil that stays thick is actually a bad thing. The Castrol TWS 10W60 used in ///M cars also shears down quite a bit as well. That's why I run M1 0W40 in my cars.

I highly doubt it's "marketing" because outside of going to a race or looking close at pictures posted of those race Mustangs, it's not common knowledge that those cars run oem Motorcraft.

 

[jasonstang]

Actually a good all rounder would be 5w30 I have to say. Easy to find, widely used, and cheap.
That is what I am gonna be using because my WRX asks for 5W30 being turbo.

 

[mustang_guy]

5w50 is perfectly street able because there are thousands of GT350s, Road Runners, GT500s, Coyote "track pack" and Ford GTs running around with it with no problems.

Maybe the fact that it shears down is part of it's design parameters for the engine, and thus, maybe using an even thicker 5W50 from Redline or Amsoil that stays thick is actually a bad thing. The Castrol TWS 10W60 used in ///M cars also shears down quite a bit as well. That's why I run M1 0W40 in my cars.

I highly doubt it's "marketing" because outside of going to a race or looking close at pictures posted of those race Mustangs, it's not common knowledge that those cars run oem Motorcraft.

It's not an ideal pressure for the street. It's too high. You're entitled to your thoughts on it but I've built far too many engines and have had cars with high pressure like that on the street and it's not good for them long term.

If you haven't noticed there has been a lot of gt350 problems. Some being bearings. During my time at Ford I saw my fair share of rebuilds for 5w50 coyotes and road runners and gt500s

The cars running a far better 5w50 that track their cars have had much better UOAs not using motorcraft. The smart bmw owners got away from the 60w. The ones that stayed on it had more problems. There is a reason all bmw cars even M's are spec'd with 5w30 currently. Part is cafe standards other was wear.

That litterly means nothing. You are aware race cars get tons of rebuilds typically, right? I'm thinking you do. It doesnt prove its durability in the slighest. It is good business to push your oil, your parts, your racing team everywhere. People see it and think just because it's on a racecar it's great. Which is highly incorrect. Since Ford has its on oil it doesn't meet an oil sponsor, it'd be stupid to not push their own oil.

I've yet to see in racing or the automotive industry where it's beneficial for oil to sheer past it's suggested weight in 1000 miles. I'd understand if it was close to 5k. But 1k in is laughable. If you buy 50w because you require it, you don't think to yourself, damn I wish it was 40! Because then you'd just buy 40.

 

[Eritas]

I logged my UOA for up to 80K miles on my problematic S65 V8 in the M3. I've ran TWS and M1 0W40 for tens of thousands of miles each and had some of the best UOA of the hundreds of UOA that I've collected ( <2ppm copper). I've had a religious warmup procedure if not revving or beating on the car until it's warmed up. On the other hand ive seen cars with half to 1/4 of my cars miles with blown motors and fried bearings. Luck of the draw? Maybe, maybe I got a good engine, maybe others didn't, and or maybe others beat on their cars when cold like idiots and cause their own problems because they either don't know better or they think "cars should handle it". I see this far too often at car shows and cringe when people show off and rev their cars with cold engines to show off.

It's far too hard to be conclusive one way or the other, but there are a lot of idiots out there and I was fortunate to buy my M3 and Mustang from more educated owners who understand the importance of warm ups and not abusing the car until it's up to temp. So I somewhat take the engine problems of others with a grain of salt without knowing more about how they treat their car, and many won't admit to their abuse so you'll probably never get the whole story from them.

The S65 and Voodoo are race motors and should be treated a such, with proper warm ups before revving them out or loading them hard.

Lol, those race teams must not be good at business when no one knows they use the OEM Motorcraft, :lol:

 

[mustang_guy]

I logged my UOA for up to 80K miles on my problematic S65 V8 in the M3. I've ran TWS and M1 0W40 for tens of thousands of miles each and had some of the best UOA of the hundreds of UOA that I've collected ( <2ppm copper). I've had a religious warmup procedure if not revving or beating on the car until it's warmed up. On the other hand ive seen cars with half to 1/4 of my cars miles with blown motors and fried bearings. Luck of the draw? Maybe, maybe I got a good engine, maybe others didn't, and or maybe others beat on their cars when cold like idiots and cause their own problems because they either don't know better or they think "cars should handle it". I see this far too often at car shows and cringe when people show off and rev their cars with cold engines to show off.

It's far too hard to be conclusive one way or the other, but there are a lot of idiots out there and I was fortunate to buy my M3 and Mustang from more educated owners who understand the importance of warm ups and not abusing the car until it's up to temp. So I somewhat take the engine problems of others with a grain of salt without knowing more about how they treat their car, and many won't admit to their abuse so you'll probably never get the whole story from them.

The S65 and Voodoo are race motors and should be treated a such, with proper warm ups before revving them out or loading them hard.

Lol, those race teams must not be good at business when no one knows they use the OEM Motorcraft, :lol:

I don't disagree warm up is part of the battle. I don't doubt great uoa with 40w. I've used it for many cars in the past on builds. I cringe also. People are stupid, what can you do?


Are you sure that nobody knows? I thought it was known. :shrug:

 

[EastTNMustang]

I'd be surprised if the Voodoo were any different. The Voodoo, Road Runner, and S550 "track pack" all recommend 5W50 for daily driven cars. I don't think it's an issue as long as you're not an idiot and revving a cold engine.

My 17 Performance Pack says 5w-20...I don't see anywhere in the owners manual 5w-50, what am I missing?

 

[Stuntman]

These threads...:frusty:

My 17 Performance Pack says 5w-20...I don't see anywhere in the owners manual 5w-50, what am I missing?

Nothing. Your car uses 5W-20. If you are an experienced track rat, I would recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 for added protection.

Ford's high performance cars, as others have said (GT500, GT, GT350, and S197 Coyote Track Package) use 5W-50 Motorcraft based off of more strenuous conditions of load, heat, and RPM. I wouldn't use 5W-20 or a 0W-30 in any of those cars, especially if they drive the car hard and/or live in the south. Maybe if they are just weekend car show guys.

I also like Mobil1 0W-40 and agree the Motorcraft 5W-50 is perfectly fine as long as you let the engine warm up. The high oil pressure 'concern' is nonsense as long as you don't abuse the car when cold.

 

[mustang_guy]

These threads...:frusty:


Nothing. Your car uses 5W-20. If you are an experienced track rat, I would recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 for added protection.

Ford's high performance cars, as others have said (GT500, GT, GT350, and S197 Coyote Track Package) use 5W-50 Motorcraft based off of more strenuous conditions of load, heat, and RPM. I wouldn't use 5W-20 or a 0W-30 in any of those cars, especially if they drive the car hard and/or live in the south. Maybe if they are just weekend car show guys.

I also like Mobil1 0W-40 and agree the Motorcraft 5W-50 is perfectly fine as long as you let the engine warm up. The high oil pressure 'concern' is nonsense as long as you don't abuse the car when cold.

 

[Regs]

I ran motocraft 5-20w for 8k. I was 1k over service (was hard finding a slot at the dealership), but this was also during summer. The oil came out damn near black. I am running 5-30w Mobil 1 now to see if it is any better. Likely switch back to 5-20w in December for the colder weather in Jersey.

This is an ecoboost mind you, and I imagine a tuned turbo will degrade it quicker in the summer.

5-20w I heard is really just to help keep gas millage down from frictional forces of higher viscosity.

 

[yohoeimmattbro]

At this point my car has 2k miles. I'm not worried about it currently as the car sees no track time and I'm not due for an oil change for a couple thousand miles. Just wanted to make sure. I will most likely switch to an M1 5w-30 or comparable oil.

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