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[Deleted member 69311]

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[NGOT8R]

It’s supposed to have a little give for quietness and comfort, but that seems a bit excessive.

You can put in a bushing insert to see if that helps. Take a closer look to see if the bushing is torn or separating from the mount.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

It is to dampen vibration/noise as stated above. If it doesn't make any metallic contact I would say it is fine.

 

[WD Pro]

I got a shifter vibration, I posted about my unplanned fix here :

I fitted the part I didn’t know I needed …

Steeda shift collar, bought from the forum, and refinished before fitment :

We won’t talk about this bit of an unexpected job …

I was hoping that this mod would get rid of my high RPM (7k+) shifter buzz, and as part of my research I ended up in another thread, and soon realised that my shifter was actually assembled incorrectly by Ford.

I will include the info here as it may help others in future :

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From what I can tell (and if Ford would have assembled mine correctly), that white spacer is held down by the o ring, and the o ring is held down by the standard reverse lockout collar when it's in its lower / home position i.e. even if the spacer and o ring move up a little when the collar is lifted and reverse is selected, they will get pulled back down the shaft by the collar when it returns to its home position. The o ring also acts as a buffer / isolator between the white spacer and the lock out collar.

Note that the standard collar does not have the upper internal o ring like the Steeda collar.

I think that my rattle was coming from the incorrect assembly i.e. my shift collar sitting directly on top of the white spacer, coupled with the following :

• No internal o ring in the top of the standard collar.
• My change of shift knob to the Ford Performance version (no leather wrapped up inside the internal bore to act as a buffer / sound deadener to the standard shift collar).

The replacement Steeda collar appears to be designed to operate in exactly the same way as the original (with regards to keeping the o ring and spacer down in position), but has the added benefit of having a second internal upper o ring to keep the top of the aluminium collar from contacting the shaft, therefore adding additional sound deadening / metal part isolation In that area.

Now some random pictures to help with understanding the above.

Standard and Steeda components - note that the bottom of the standard shift collar has been removed as it gets broken during removal of the standard shift boot :

Standard (MT82) shifter :

Standard assembly order (I think) :

Spacer and o ring position after fitting the standard collar in the home / bottom position (same position with the Steeda collar) :

A right pair of knobs :

As I’ve seen a few posts in the past asking - mine takes 11 full turns (approx 14mm of thread engagement) to sit in a nice position that still allows easy engagement of reverse. 12 turns still worked, but the ridge on the collar was right up to the underside of the knob.

11 turns, and reverse :

The only problem I have now the buzz is gone, is the loss of my audible 'shift now' warning ...

Note for anyone doing this mod on the standard shifter : ensure the roll pin is central in the shaft :

If that pin is not centered, there is a chance it will cut into the inner bore of the Steeda collar (possibly adding NVH ?) :

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For anyone considering this mod, I would also suggest you take a little bit of time to adjust the fitment of the shift boot around the collar to get the folds evenly spaced, before finally tightening the cable tie (if you don't, it can look a bit uneven and it won't sit nicely).

In addition, if you buy second hand (like me) or mess up your initial fitment wasting the supplied low profile cable tie, it is possible to use a normal cable tie

You will need a small headed tie so the head can fit unobstructed down the recess in the white plastic collar that the shift collar clips into without obstructing the locking mechanism, or causing an interference with the shift boot that's folded over it (that statement will become much clearer when you have the components in hand).

Low profile cable ties are available as a replacement, but I found them difficult to source (in the U.K.) without buying a (very expensive) bulk pack.

I also went a bit easier on the thread lock this time around ...

First time (Ford knob) was tight, but it was possible to remove it by hand.

Second time, I got a full turn or so and then it locked up solid. I had to resort to wrapping it in a latex glove, and then this to get it off :

I genuinely thought I was going to destroy the knob, or at least pull the brass insert out of it.

First replacement was fitted with loctite 243 (blue), and I completely covered all the male and female threads.

This time around I used loctite 242 (still blue, but a little weaker), and just put a single stripe down one side of the male thread. It seems to have secured it well, but time will tell

I’ve also got some 271 (Red), it’s a good job I didn’t use that !

WD

Maybe that helps ?

WD

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