Need help please. JMS Plug & Play BAP Ground location

[Andrewg]

Just finished up a Procharger Stage 2 install and had some questions on the BAP. I plan on doing an Airlift install at some point in the future and want to use the spare tire well for that so don't want to use that for the BAP. Ideally I want to mount it in the same place as [MENTION=15176]MyLilPony[/MENTION] (Post #3 http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1410604&highlight=jms+ground#post1410604 )

Problem is the ground wire is too short to reach the 'recommended' ground against the rear panel under the trunk lid. Therefore I have options. a) extend the ground wire with solder/heat shrink tubing and use the recommended ground. b) create a ground by removing paint and using a self tapping screw somewhere. c) Use a different ground somehere behind the rear seat interior panels or under the rear seat so the ground wire doesn't have to be cut/messed with.

Done some searching but nothing specific came up so interested in anyone else that has done this and which solution you went with or if anyone has any suggestions. MyLilPony used a seatbelt bolt under the rear seat but i'd need to cut and crimp a bigger eyelet on the wire so looking to see if this was a good solution or if there is anywhere better.

Thanks in advance.

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[dubster99]

I used one of the FPDM bolts as the ground for my VMP PNP.

 

[MyLilPony]

I thought about extending it but a little sanding to expose metal and a larger eyelet just made it easier.

 

[Andrewg]

I used one of the FPDM bolts as the ground for my VMP PNP.

Thanks for the response. Did you do any work to the body like sanding off paint before you did this? Did you use specific torque specs to torque the bolt back down again? I remember it being quite a small one.

I thought about extending it but a little sanding to expose metal and a larger eyelet just made it easier.

Thanks mate. And thanks again for your thread. It was my 'go to' a couple of times for help and tips when I got stuck. So did you just slap the eyelet on, crimp it and then torque the seat belt bolt back to spec (40NM)?

 

[dubster99]

Thanks for the response. Did you do any work to the body like sanding off paint before you did this? Did you use specific torque specs to torque the bolt back down again? I remember it being quite a small one.

No sanding anything. Just got the bolt tight again.

 

[MyLilPony]

Thanks for the response. Did you do any work to the body like sanding off paint before you did this? Did you use specific torque specs to torque the bolt back down again? I remember it being quite a small one.



Thanks mate. And thanks again for your thread. It was my 'go to' a couple of times for help and tips when I got stuck. So did you just slap the eyelet on, crimp it and then torque the seat belt bolt back to spec (40NM)?

Pretty much, I used my Dremel and sanded to expose the bare metal as the last thing I wanted was a ground fault at WOT . Once I had the eyelet on And tightened back down I tested to make sure the ground was good and called it a day.

If you extend it make sure to solder and shrink wrap. Anything electrical and fuel related I like to test the hell out of it. Like I said, a failed connection at WOT costs a lot more than a test light or voltmeter.

 

[Andrewg]

Pretty much, I used my Dremel and sanded to expose the bare metal as the last thing I wanted was a ground fault at WOT . Once I had the eyelet on And tightened back down I tested to make sure the ground was good and called it a day.

If you extend it make sure to solder and shrink wrap. Anything electrical and fuel related I like to test the hell out of it. Like I said, a failed connection at WOT costs a lot more than a test light or voltmeter.

Good advice. Thanks for that.

 

[JerzysIS6g]

Hate to bring up an old thread but I’m in the same boat about grounding (electrical is not my thing). Where did you end up grounding it?

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