Lugs for the R

[DrumReaper]

As someone in the industry of service, particularly mechanical . . studs play a major role and are not something you just swap/put in without a lot of engineering to back them up.

Studs/nuts are not a cosmetic item as some seem to prioritize on this thread.

Hmmm... I could argue the above, with a little engineering experience, but I'll let the pick of the failed studs do it for me.

Sometimes, a more cosmetically appearing alternative just so happens to be superior in function... and like you said, I'll just leave that right there and to each his own.

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[Bosshog]

Hmmm... I could argue the above, with a little engineering experience, but I'll let the pick of the failed studs do it for me.

Sometimes, a more cosmetically appearing alternative just so happens to be superior in function... and like you said, I'll just leave that right there and to each his own.

Don't argue with me, argue with Ford and their engineering staff. They have a lot more wisdom than you or I, I think you would agree?

Anyhow, the "pic" doesn't tell us anything at this point. . most likely over-torqued considering where they broke.

Probably this conversation may not be as major of a concern unless you are tracking the car. Are you?

 

[ForTehNguyen]

Fellas - I honestly never knew how difficult it was going to be to replace the wheels on this thing. A guy can get confused pretty quickly. I just don't want to fuck up a 20k set of wheels/tires.

honestly if i had an R, I would dismount the carbon wheels store it safely, buy some 6GR wheels from NFSM that look damn similar but you wont be scared of them getting damaged or jacked. If you have a track day whip out the CF wheels

 

[DrumReaper]

Relax man, you sound injured... we're simply discussing lug options here. It's actually good that you posted a pic of your car with the 6g wheels so R owners can see what they will have to face when trying to use that setup as an alternative.

The studs on these cars were matched in length to the needs to accommodate the CF wheels... why should I argue with anyone about that? I'm just not one for putting around town in such a fine piece of mechanical art only to have the studs steal the thunder. It's your money but damn those exposed studs are hideous and are a focal point of ugliness.

I am merely here to offer a solution to the problem the OP is concerned with... and I should have that solution very soon. I appreciate you posting your pic so we can see the need for such a solution.

 

[Bosshog]

Relax man, you sound injured... we're simply discussing lug options here. It's actually good that you posted a pic of your car with the 6g wheels so R owners can see what they will have to face when trying to use that setup as an alternative.

The studs on these cars were matched in length to the needs to accommodate the CF wheels... why should I argue with anyone about that? I'm just not one for putting around town in such a fine piece of mechanical art only to have the studs steal the thunder. It's your money but damn those exposed studs are hideous and are a focal point of ugliness.

I am merely here to offer a solution to the problem the OP is concerned with... and I should have that solution very soon. I appreciate you posting your pic so we can see the need for such a solution.

No comment, I'll let you continue this thread and offer solutions Doc!
Peace out.

 

[machsmith]

Yep they fail.....a few theories as to why these failed. Note: These are not from my car.

Posted on another forum:

I have a confirmed stud breakage on a GT350.* This car has been driven at 13 track days.* The manual states the torque specification is 150 ft lbs + or - 15 ft lbs. Torqueing to 135 is within spec and I'm not going beyond that on my car.

*

This looks like over torque. When tightening too tight they pulled and made the weak poiny right at the thread end of the lug. Is this with OEM wheels, no spacer?
Looks like the broken studs were ground on.

 

[Epiphany]

I'm trying to wrap my head around the black ring (plastic?) slipped onto the hub register before commenting on the studs that failed. And what wheel was on there as the pattern left onto the rotor almost looks like that of a 6GR wheel (on the right in the following photo.)



Hard to tell and I may be wrong but the threads appear to have had thread lubricant, such as anti-seize, on them. This makes me wonder what torque figure was being used and one would hope if anti-seize was used that the torque figure was reduced accordingly.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

it looks like it was overtorqued from a impact fun, I mean how the hell ?

 

[DrumReaper]

I'm trying to wrap my head around the black ring (plastic?) slipped onto the hub register before commenting on the studs that failed. And what wheel was on there as the pattern left onto the rotor almost looks like that of a 6GR wheel (on the right in the following photo.)



Hard to tell and I may be wrong but the threads appear to have had thread lubricant, such as anti-seize, on them. This makes me wonder what torque figure was being used and one would hope if anti-seize was used that the torque figure was reduced accordingly.

Good catch on the footprint of that wheel. The R center section looks like that footprint as well IIRC.

 

[Epiphany]

The billet aluminum hub on the R model front wheel has a different footprint. Note the radii on the triangulated portion - the pattern on the rotor with the broken studs are all straight lines. Besides, you couldn't use an R model wheel with standard GT350 length studs as they would be too short.




Love to hear more from the owner but I suspect we won't.:(



On edit....here's a shot that more clearly illustrates what I was trying to say about the lines that the R model hub face and the pattern it would leave.

 

[cjgt350]

Love to hear more from the owner but I suspect we won't.:(

I don't think we will either. Certainly more to the story. The takeaway for me..... Torque to correct specs as 150lb/ft is high indeed but when in use with anti-seize or lubricant the torque must be reduced commensurate with specs.

 

[DrumReaper]

The billet aluminum hub on the R model front wheel has a different footprint. Note the radii on the triangulated portion - the pattern on the rotor with the broken studs are all straight lines. Besides, you couldn't use an R model wheel with standard GT350 length studs as they would be too short.




Love to hear more from the owner but I suspect we won't.:(



On edit....here's a shot that more clearly illustrates what I was trying to say about the lines that the R model hub face and the pattern it would leave.

Thanks for the clarification. I looked like and my Forgestars have that same pentagonal footprint.

 

[JAJ]

Yep they fail.....a few theories as to why these failed. Note: These are not from my car.

Posted on another forum:

I have a confirmed stud breakage on a GT350.* This car has been driven at 13 track days.* The manual states the torque specification is 150 ft lbs + or - 15 ft lbs. Torqueing to 135 is within spec and I'm not going beyond that on my car.

*

Those don't look like OEM Ford studs. I have both GT350 and GT350R hubs on hand and both OEM types have the studs threaded right down to the face of the hub, which is behind the face of the brake rotor. I would speculate that the studs in the picture aren't Ford OEM studs and that they broke because the nut bottomed on the threads before it was on far enough to clamp the wheel tight.

 

[Epiphany]

You aren't the only one to make that observation, however incorrect it may be.

Look closer. The darker portion of the stud does not delineate or clearly illustrate the thread length. They actually do go through the rotor. The color is most likely from not just use but also possibly from a thread lubricant/cleaner having been applied.

The studs in the photo above are factory Ford studs.


On edit - A better shot of what I'm trying to describe. My own car.

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