Jmeo's 2020 GT500 Build

[Jmeo]

I am happy to report that I have finally received a package for my car that is actually a performance modification

Anyone who knows me, or has followed one of my other builds knows that I am Team Steeda. For 20+ years, the common go to performance company for me has been Steeda. I couldn’t think of a better place to start than the suspension experts themselves.

One thing I have learned working on my last three cars is what works. This weekend I will be installing Steeda’s subframe support braces, subframe bushing support system, and subframe alignment kit.

This trifecta of parts has proven for me to be the best setup to tighten up the rear and minimize wheel hop. I will add more goodies in the future, but this is where I always start.

With everything going on in this world, I am really looking forward to working on this car.

Loving the new grey color (they used to be silver)

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[Jmeo]

Although not as exciting as playing with the suspension, I also received these over the last couple days.

I am adding the JLT foam inserts to prevent 100% of the pebbles from entering the rocker panel trim piece. The flaps I installed work perfectly for side of car, and rear quarter protection, however some small pebbles have made their way between them and into the trim. These will most certainly put the nail in that coffin.

Zimcraft.ca front bumper inserts

 

[Jmeo]

It's official, I am gonna be busy this weekend......

Fresh off the USPS wagon is my Caliperfexion 17-4PH Stainless Stud Kit & Caliper Stud Extension Sleeve kit. Admittedly I do not track (hey, I might!) but I am a big fan of easy pad swaps. The factory caliper bolts are one time use, so these are are a must for me. The extension sleeves allow you to slide the caliper completely out of the way for rotor swaps, or suspension work.

 

[The Chairman]

It's official, I am gonna be busy this weekend......

Fresh off the USPS wagon is my Caliperfexion 17-4PH Stainless Stud Kit & Caliper Stud Extension Sleeve kit. Admittedly I do not track (hey, I might!) but I am a big fan of easy pad swaps. The factory caliper bolts are one time use, so these are are a must for me. The extension sleeves allow you to slide the caliper completely out of the way for rotor swaps, or suspension work.

Do those fit the GT500?

 

[Jmeo]

Do those fit the GT500?

Yes, this is one of the first kits for the GT500. I’ll be posting pictures as soon as I finish the install.

 

[The Chairman]

Yes, this is one of the first kits for the GT500. I’ll be posting pictures as soon as I finish the install.

Thanks. Let us know.
The part number you listed shows for the GT350 on their website. When I asked Patti if those would fit, she said no. And she would let us know when the right part was available. I know they have been working on it.

 

[Jmeo]

Today I installed a set of Caliperfexion 17-4 PH stainless caliper studs on my 2020 GT500, and I thought I would post my results, incase anyone else may be interested. The directions are well written, and are complete with all the required specs, so I will just show the major steps.

Let me start by saying, these things are a work of art, they are almost too beautiful to hide behind the caliper. They arrived nicely packaged, and supplied with everything you need to complete the job. I also picked up a set of caliper extensions to make pad swapping, or suspension work even easier.

As I was about to take the front wheels off, and then I remembered that I purchased a set of these lug guide tools when I was at the Ford Nationals car show in Carlisle, PA, back in 2016. Initially, I bought them to aid in installing the really heavy 35” wheels & tires I had on my 6” suspension lifted 2015. They did not work on the aftermarket wheels I was using (stud holes were too small), so I threw them in a drawer. I remembered that I had them when I was thinking about the best way to get the wheels off without chipping the calipers.

Here are a few pictures of them in action. They worked perfect!

Next, unbolt and hang the caliper out of the way, using caution to not stress the brake line too much. I used these caliper hangers, which work perfectly with these heavy calipers.

Now, you are going to want to spend a little time cleaning the dried thread locker from the threaded holes, and from the mating surfaces of the caliper and knuckle. A razor blade worked best to clean the mating surfaces, and an air hose to blast out the threads after cleaning them. I also needed a file to fix a burr that I found on the lower mounting surface.

Here you can see the expired thread locker in the threads, on the the knuckle, and caliper. The third picture shows the burr that I need to file off.

After everything is clean, apply some of the included thread locker on the stud threads and install them into the knuckle. When finished there should be 3 7/16” between the knuckle and the end of the stud.

Using the supplied thread lubricant, put a light coat on hub of the stud, and on the thread ends before you slide the caliper into position.

Using a pad spreader, open the pads up to make sliding the caliper back over the rotor much easier. I also like to thread a lug nut on one of the wheel studs to hold the rotor flat against the hub.

This is where I want to show you just how great the caliper extensions are. With the nuts and washers removed (if previously installed), simply thread them onto the studs. This allows you to slide the caliper out for swapping the pads, or rotor, or even suspension work. They keep the calipers out of the way, and safe from dangling danger, lol. These truly are brilliant, and are extremely useful. My only advice is to release the brake pad keepers before sliding the calipers out to the end of the extensions. They are more than capable of safely holding the caliper, I just would not want to torque on the caliper while the extensions are carrying the full weight.

Lastly, place the washer and 12 point nut on the end of the stud and torque to the proper setting.

When you are done you should see only one thread showing past the end of the nut.

The stud extensions come with threaded plugs to protect the female threads when not in use. I also used them to store the included jam nuts, incase I ever need to take the studs out again.

It’s now time to grab your favorite beverage and marvel in the beauty that you just installed.

 

[AMBJR]

Today I installed a set of Caliperfexion 17-4 PH stainless caliper studs on my 2020 GT500, and I thought I would post my results, incase anyone else may be interested. The directions are well written, and are complete with all the required specs, so I will just show the major steps.

Let me start by saying, these things are a work of art, they are almost too beautiful to hide behind the caliper. They arrived nicely packaged, and supplied with everything you need to complete the job. I also picked up a set of caliper extensions to make pad swapping, or suspension work even easier.

As I was about to take the front wheels off, and then I remembered that I purchased a set of these lug guide tools when I was at the Ford Nationals car show in Carlisle, PA, back in 2016. Initially, I bought them to aid in installing the really heavy 35” wheels & tires I had on my 6” suspension lifted 2015. They did not work on the aftermarket wheels I was using (stud holes were too small), so I threw them in a drawer. I remembered that I had them when I was thinking about the best way to get the wheels off without chipping the calipers.

Here are a few pictures of them in action. They worked perfect!

Next, unbolt and hang the caliper out of the way, using caution to not stress the brake line too much. I used these caliper hangers, which work perfectly with these heavy calipers.

Now, you are going to want to spend a little time cleaning the dried thread locker from the threaded holes, and from the mating surfaces of the caliper and knuckle. A razor blade worked best to clean the mating surfaces, and an air hose to blast out the threads after cleaning them. I also needed a file to fix a burr that I found on the lower mounting surface.

Here you can see the expired thread locker in the threads, on the the knuckle, and caliper. The third picture shows the burr that I need to file off.

After everything is clean, apply some of the included thread locker on the stud threads and install them into the knuckle. When finished there should be 3 7/16” between the knuckle and the end of the stud.

Using the supplied thread lubricant, put a light coat on hub of the stud, and on the thread ends before you slide the caliper into position.

Using a pad spreader, open the pads up to make sliding the caliper back over the rotor much easier. I also like to thread a lug nut on one of the wheel studs to hold the caliper flat against the hub.

This is where I want to show you just how great the caliper extensions are. With the nuts and washers removed (if previously installed), simply thread them onto the studs. This allows you to slide the caliper out for swapping the pads, or rotor, or even suspension work. They keep the calipers out of the way, and safe from dangling danger, lol. These truly are brilliant, and are extremely useful. My only advice is to release the brake pad keepers before sliding the calipers out to the end of the extensions. They are more than capable of safely holding the caliper, I just would not want to torque on the caliper while the extensions are carrying the full weight.

Lastly, place the washer and 12 point nut on the end of the stud and torque to the proper setting.

When you are done you should see only one thread showing past the end of the nut.

It’s now time to grab your favorite beverage and marvel in the beauty that you just installed.

What is the part number for the 2020 Shelby GT500?

 

[Jmeo]

What is the part number for the 2020 Shelby GT500?

At this point, I think you will just need to call Caliperfexion until they get their website updated with the new information.

 

[AMBJR]

At this point, I think you will just need to call Caliperfexion until they get their website updated with the new information.

What is there phone number?

 

[Jmeo]

What is there phone number?

I should have said use "contact me" at the bottom of their website. Here's the link.

https://caliperfexion.net

 

[Jmeo]

Today I also got around to installing Steeda’s “Stop The Hop” kit.

I started by taking down the rear, under car diffuser, and then supporting the subframe.

Since I only needed to lower each corner of the subframe, one by one, just enough to slide an insert between it and the frame, I did not drop the exhaust. I just unhooked the hangers from the subframe.

I loosened each of the four subframe bolts, and using the support jacks, lowered each one at at time side and slipped an insert in place. The front bushing also gets a lower insert between it and the front brackets.

The subframe alignment pins have a counterbore that needs to be positioned at the head end of the subframe bolt. The counterbore is to allow the knurl at the base of the bolt to clear. To be sure you have it positioned correctly, the insert will fit all the way over the bolt and sit on the bracket. Follow the same procedure for the rear alignment pins as well.

If you find that yo need to move the subframe to get the holes centered (I did), use a pick or pry bar through the hole in the subframe, then into the hole in the frame, and gently pry the subframe into the desired position.

Installing the braces is pretty straight forward. I find it best to loosely start one of the front bolts, one of the rear bolts, and the center bolt that threads into the front subframe bracket.

The rear bolt has a nut that must be installed from above. I find the best tool for the job is an 18mm offset box end wrench.

Voila'

I will say the two piece inserts for the rear lower bushings do not fit the GT500. Apparently the rear subframe bushings are different on Shelby models.

 

[Jmeo]

Nowhere near as technical, but I added the JLT foam blockers to my already installed Rokbloxz flaps for a serious one-two punch to pebbles

 

[Jmeo]

Today I had to take care of an OCD problem I just could NOT unsee. When I was installing the Steeda goodies yesterday, I noticed a couple of things that I could not live with.

One, the exhaust tips were uneven. The tips on the passenger side were almost 1/2" lower than the drivers side.

Two, the harnesses for the exhaust actuators, and the harness for the reverse light are wrapped in silver, heat protective tape, and are visible through the mesh of the rear valance.

Having installed upwards of 10 exhaust systems on 2015+ mustangs alone, I have figured out exactly how to correct the uneven tips. By supporting the X pipe, and loosening the clamps that connect the cat-back to the down pipes, you can adjust each muffler height. Now, this will take some patience, but it's doable. I forgot to take a picture of the jack placement, but I think you get the idea.

Here are pictures of how I found the tips. I tried my best to take accurate pictures, but they were off by at least 7/16".

Here they are adjusted to within 1/16" to 1/8" of each other. This is something my brain can live with, haha.

For the silver harnesses, I took down the rear underbelly and used black weather resistant tape to cover the silver on each of the actuator harnesses. I was able to just tuck the reverse light harness up further, and out of sight.

Before

After

Now, there is an ass I can look at.

Ok, time to let her down and go for a ride to test out the last few days of work.

PS: Sorry if i now made you all see something that you can not unsee on your car

 

[2020GT500]

Today I also got around to installing Steeda’s “Stop The Hop” kit.

I started by taking down the rear, under car diffuser, and then supporting the subframe.

Since I only needed to lower each corner of the subframe, one by one, just enough to slide an insert between it and the frame, I did not drop the exhaust. I just unhooked the hangers from the subframe.

I loosened each of the four subframe bolts, and using the support jacks, lowered each one at at time side and slipped an insert in place. The front bushing also gets a lower insert between it and the front brackets.

The subframe alignment pins have a counterbore that needs to be positioned at the head end of the subframe bolt. The counterbore is to allow the knurl at the base of the bolt to clear. To be sure you have it positioned correctly, the insert will fit all the way over the bolt and sit on the bracket. Follow the same procedure for the rear alignment pins as well.

If you find that yo need to move the subframe to get the holes centered (I did), use a pick or pry bar through the hole in the subframe, then into the hole in the frame, and gently pry the subframe into the desired position.

Installing the braces is pretty straight forward. I find it best to loosely start one of the front bolts, one of the rear bolts, and the center bolt that threads into the front subframe bracket.

The rear bolt has a nut that must be installed from above. I find the best tool for the job is an 18mm offset box end wrench.

Voila'

I will say the two piece inserts for the rear lower bushings do not fit the GT500. Apparently the rear subframe bushings are different on Shelby models.

@Jmeo What was your time to install the kit? Price now looks to good to pass up at $315 for the starter kit.

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