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Is there a Ford tech on here that can answer a repair question? I already know the problm. Need info

PJR202

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I had an AC repair done in 2017 on my 2016 GT. I was told at the time the compressor bearing was bad and replaced. I specifically asked if they replaced the whole thing or just the bearing and they said the bearing. I'm about to trade the car in and now that whirring sound is back, and just like last time it goes away if I turn off the AC (not the blower entirely). I already have been working trade deals via email because the vehicle I'm buying will be a minimum 3 hour drive. I don't want to roll in there with the car being something other than what I described unless I can give them some info about what it would cost to repair.

So I called the dealership to find out what they did and how much the repair cost. I was told since it was under warranty there's no dollar amount listed. I'd like to know how much the repair cost so I can pass the info along to the dealer and/or see how much this could affect my trade. The AC is working fine but obviously there's a problem that needs addressed.

And tech here that knows what that fix costs or a guess based on how many repair hours the job is, etc? I suppose I could call back and ask him to pretend that was a repair that needs made and give me the price, but the guy didn't sound very interested in helping me. Any help or guidance is most appreciated. Even if just a regular member here has had the same thing repaired and know what it cost.
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New compressor on Amazon is fairly inexpensive. Sounds like the compressor bearing is going.
If it was the AC compressor clutch bearing it would howl all the time.
The compressor bearing is internal, so I do not think they replaced that. Most likely the clutch bearing is what they did.

Buy a compressor and take it to a shop and have them install it. Or go back to dealer and maybe they will give you a discount or break since the problem returned upon thier previous repair.

Most shops will charge about $200-$400 to install your compressor if you bring the part in.

Here is the link to the compressor you need for your mustang. Same warranty as motorcraft.

https://www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-11316...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
 
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PJR202

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New compressor on Amazon is fairly inexpensive. Sounds like the compressor bearing is going.
If it was the AC compressor clutch bearing it would howl all the time.
The compressor bearing is internal, so I do not think they replaced that. Most likely the clutch bearing is what they did.

Buy a compressor and take it to a shop and have them install it. Or go back to dealer and maybe they will give you a discount or break since the problem returned upon thier previous repair.

Most shops will charge about $200-$400 to install your compressor if you bring the part in.

Here is the link to the compressor you need for your mustang. Same warranty as motorcraft.

https://www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-11316C-C-Compressor/dp/B00SLKEWF0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford|54&Model=Mustang|688&Year=2016|2016&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

New compressor on Amazon is fairly inexpensive. Sounds like the compressor bearing is going.
If it was the AC compressor clutch bearing it would howl all the time.
The compressor bearing is internal, so I do not think they replaced that. Most likely the clutch bearing is what they did.

Buy a compressor and take it to a shop and have them install it. Or go back to dealer and maybe they will give you a discount or break since the problem returned upon thier previous repair.

Most shops will charge about $200-$400 to install your compressor if you bring the part in.

Here is the link to the compressor you need for your mustang. Same warranty as motorcraft.

https://www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-11316C-C-Compressor/dp/B00SLKEWF0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford|54&Model=Mustang|688&Year=2016|2016&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Thank you.

When the guy read off to me today the info from the repair he said it said the compressor was replaced. I remember specifically asking at the time of repair and they guy said bearing. This morning that made me think they replaced the bearing but charged Ford out as the whole compressor.

This is literally the exact same noise as before. It sounds like when a power steering pump is low on fluid but the sound changes with engine speed as opposed to when turning the wheel. Plus the car as electric power steering so no fluid like that. When I press the AC button to off it stops and the actual fan power is still on.

So maybe they did replace the whole compressor and the guy just didn't know the accurate story? It was the department manager and not the actual tech that did the work.

I just spoke with one of the dealers and let them know the situation. I'm gonna feel that out and see how it may affect my trade before I do anything else. I was planning on trading in the next few days if things work out.
 

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I don’t really understand why you don’t just pause the sale for 3 days and get a free warranty repair by The Ford Dealer. Then it’s a non issue. And a free resolution.
 

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Thank you.

When the guy read off to me today the info from the repair he said it said the compressor was replaced. I remember specifically asking at the time of repair and they guy said bearing. This morning that made me think they replaced the bearing but charged Ford out as the whole compressor.

This is literally the exact same noise as before. It sounds like when a power steering pump is low on fluid but the sound changes with engine speed as opposed to when turning the wheel. Plus the car as electric power steering so no fluid like that. When I press the AC button to off it stops and the actual fan power is still on.

So maybe they did replace the whole compressor and the guy just didn't know the accurate story? It was the department manager and not the actual tech that did the work.

I just spoke with one of the dealers and let them know the situation. I'm gonna feel that out and see how it may affect my trade before I do anything else. I was planning on trading in the next few days if things work out.
Ask to see the receipt for the work that was done. It is in their computer. Good luck.
 
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PJR202

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I don’t really understand why you don’t just pause the sale for 3 days and get a free warranty repair by The Ford Dealer. Then it’s a non issue. And a free resolution.
Yeah I'm at 55k miles at this point. I'll just see what the Toyota people say about it and go from there. A few hundred bucks off my trade or on the price won't kill me. I'm still a shade under what I'm willing to pay overall. And of course there was no noise on my way home from work yesterday..lol
 

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Yeah I'm at 55k miles at this point. I'll just see what the Toyota people say about it and go from there. A few hundred bucks off my trade or on the price won't kill me. I'm still a shade under what I'm willing to pay overall. And of course there was no noise on my way home from work yesterday..lol
Trading it in for a Toyota??
 

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If you’re trading the car in - and driving 3hrs to get there - you’d better hope whatever deal they are telling you over the phone for their vehicle is definitively true AND the car is actually on their lot....

I’d hate to drive 3hrs and find out I was being shimshammed over the phone so the Salesman can get bodies into the Dealership - then spew his/her BS and tell you “oh, yes that advertised internet price included discounts and rebates, but oh, you don’t qualify for all of them”....

So if you’re still intent on driving 3hrs to trade your car in - bring WD40 or Windex with you - 3 blocks from the Dealership, pull over shut off car and liberally spray down the front of the A/C clutch assembly - start car and turn on A/C... no more squeaks or squeals for the short trade in “inspection/drive” they will end up doing...

Good luck

I hope the Toyota you’re trading for is the new Supra which might explain a 3hr drive to a Toyota Dealership (especially since Toy Dealers are like McDonalds or Walgreens pharmacies, there’s one within 20 miles of each other on every corner in the US).
 
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PJR202

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If you’re trading the car in - and driving 3hrs to get there - you’d better hope whatever deal they are telling you over the phone for their vehicle is definitively true AND the car is actually on their lot....

I’d hate to drive 3hrs and find out I was being shimshammed over the phone so the Salesman can get bodies into the Dealership - then spew his/her BS and tell you “oh, yes that advertised internet price included discounts and rebates, but oh, you don’t qualify for all of them”....

So if you’re still intent on driving 3hrs to trade your car in - bring WD40 or Windex with you - 3 blocks from the Dealership, pull over shut off car and liberally spray down the front of the A/C clutch assembly - start car and turn on A/C... no more squeaks or squeals for the short trade in “inspection/drive” they will end up doing...

Good luck

I hope the Toyota you’re trading for is the new Supra which might explain a 3hr drive to a Toyota Dealership (especially since Toy Dealers are like McDonalds or Walgreens pharmacies, there’s one within 20 miles of each other on every corner in the US).
I only just saw this response..lol. I had everything worked out and ready to roll before going to Columbus. No one locally could touch the price or the trade offer. It was for a Tundra. It took 3 years for the thrill to die down enough that the GT went from a cool commuter car (35 miles each way) to a shitty commuter car. Bent wheel, potholes galore, kids couldn't fit, and I nearly totaled my Tacoma a couple weeks before I traded the GT.

I don't really miss it. It was a ton of fun but the Tundra checks all the boxes at this point. They knew about everything.
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