Help a beginner out?

[Jakester]

Hey guys!

I recently got my beautiful car and I want to get some good products to start taking care of it. Please do note...I am a complete beginner and have never done any detailing work besides shining my last cars tires!

I bought some products already, which hopefully were good. Those were just the "basics". I was hoping to expand what I have and wanted some pointers and if I picked good products! You would be so much help and I would sure appreciate it!

What I bought already:
- Rag Company Premium Microfiber Wash Mitt
- Rag Company Dry Me A River Drying Microfiber Towel
- Adam's Hex Grip Tire Dressing Applicator
- Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
- TriNova Foam Cannon
- Meguiar's Endurance Gel (I like the glossy look and am careful about tire sling!)
- Greenworks Electric Power Washer 1700PSI, 1.2GPM (Not the most powerful, I know..!)

Hopefully these were good!

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Now for the other items, I really want to get into "detailing" as simple as I can. I want to have a glossy/shiny looking car and keep it that way. I've never waxed a car or used a clay bar. I was thinking a clay bar is relatively simple?

Regardless, these were the products I was considering getting. I'm not sold on the brand, but I'm only looking at them because I've heard good things about them.

Considerations:
- Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner
- Adam's Wheel Cleaner
- Adam's Small Barrel Brush
- Adam's Tire Brush
- Adam's Interior Detailer
- Adam's Spray Wax
- Adam's Glass Boost (Glass Sealant?)
- Adam's Visco Clay Bar Kit (?? Is a clay bar like all others? What kind would I need for my car? It's brand new, but was recommended to go over the surfaces and windows still)
- Adam's Buttery Wax (How easy is this to apply or do you recommend it? What would I need to give my car a good gloss?)

Does this seem like "too many" products? Like I said, I'm a complete beginner seeking tips/advice and not sure what are good essentials or if I'm going overboard! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. As OCD and indecisive as I am, I feel completely overwhelmed with all of this lol.

Also, any tips for getting rid of swirl marks? I've noticed some on the car, mainly on the black tail panel. I noticed them after I got the car (maybe from the dealership?), so far I've always been cleaning the car in a straight even lines.

Any other tips for products or just general care? THANK YOU!

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[Labradog]

Lots of good information on YouTube (Ammo NYC, Dallas Detailing and Paint Correction, Obsessed Garage, etc...) Detailing can get as complicated as you want to make it. Skipping to the question about swirl marks: they are caused by touching the car. To remove them you will need a polish. The soft plastics (taillights and decklid trim panel) are going to show them no matter what you do, it's just something that you're gonna have to live with. For the painted panels the goal is to touch them as little as possible and when you do to use as much lubrication as possible. You will get the occasional swirl mark even when being careful.

I've found that I want to minimize the number of different products I have to use. Adams and Chemical guys make some good products, but they also make 31 flavors of things. Here's a general run through of what I'm using:

Soap: CG Honeydew Snow Foam (Lot's of other options including Meguiar's Gold Class and Adams Car Shampoo)
Wheel Cleaner/Tires: Auto-Fanatic Wheel Cleaning Foam(Adams is fine, but honestly soap/water is probably fine for the limited dust from your brakes)
Degreaser/APC: Meguiars Super Degreaser (I mostly use this for engine bay and wheel wells. Also works fine as a tire cleaner. Comes in a gallon that you dilute and will last you a very long time. I combine it with Meg Hyperdressing in the engine bay. Spray on and walk away)
Drying Aid/Spray Sealant: P&S Bead maker applied after every wash as part of the drying process. Also as a detail spray if you had to. (This can be used on everything, paint, glass, plastics, wheels. Previously I used CG V07 Spray Sealant and liked it as well.)
Tire Dressing: Carpro PERL. Can also be used on the plastics. I use either a foam block or old microfiber that's only used for this job.
Sealant: I apply Blackfire Wet Diamond about every 6 months. (Jescar Powerlock will be what I switch to when I finish this bottle)
Brushes: EZ Detail brush or another like it for barrels, take your pick of a boars hair brush for spokes/lug holes, Tuf shine tire brush (Also use these for under the hood/car).
Assorted microfiber towels for various jobs.

The Adams clay works fine. Paint decontamination and correction is a whole other thing and I've rambled long enough. I'll answer any questions you have though.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Good selection of products, but you’re missing one thing:

Porter Cable 7424 polisher

It will reduce your detail time by half - and it’s one of the best, easiest and safest polishers to use. Using that and a pad kit, you’re on your way to having the shiniest car on the block!

 

[wcharon]

Good selection of products, but you’re missing one thing:

Porter Cable 7424 polisher

It will reduce your detail time by half - and it’s one of the best, easiest and safest polishers to use. Using that and a pad kit, you’re on your way to having the shiniest car on the block!

I am in the same boat and starting reading so i can detail my cars.

@Cobra Jet do you consider the Porter Cable better that the Groits Grage Polisher?

 

[Labradog]

I am in the same boat and starting reading so i can detail my cars.

@Cobra Jet do you consider the Porter Cable better that the Groits Grage Polisher?

I like the 3" from either Griots or Adams for our cars.

 

[wcharon]

I like the 3" from either Griots or Adams for our cars.

Perfect. Thanks...`

Sorry you meant the 6" or the 3"?

 

[Labradog]

Perfect. Thanks...`

Sorry you meant the 6" or the 3"?

You could do either. There's just enough tight areas on our car where the 3" works better that I end up using it for the whole car rather than setting up my Rupes with a 6" pad and going back and forth. That said you will go through more pads with the smaller machine when doing a car. Rupes Yellow pads with Sonax Perfect Finish is a great 1 step solution.

 

[wcharon]

You could do either. There's just enough tight areas on our car where the 3" works better that I end up using it for the whole car rather than setting up my Rupes with a 6" pad and going back and forth. That said you will go through more pads with the smaller machine when doing a car. Rupes Yellow pads with Sonax Perfect Finish is a great 1 step solution.

Got it. Thanks so much...

 

[Jakester]

Lots of good information on YouTube (Ammo NYC, Dallas Detailing and Paint Correction, Obsessed Garage, etc...) Detailing can get as complicated as you want to make it. Skipping to the question about swirl marks: they are caused by touching the car. To remove them you will need a polish. The soft plastics (taillights and decklid trim panel) are going to show them no matter what you do, it's just something that you're gonna have to live with. For the painted panels the goal is to touch them as little as possible and when you do to use as much lubrication as possible. You will get the occasional swirl mark even when being careful.

I've found that I want to minimize the number of different products I have to use. Adams and Chemical guys make some good products, but they also make 31 flavors of things. Here's a general run through of what I'm using:

Soap: CG Honeydew Snow Foam (Lot's of other options including Meguiar's Gold Class and Adams Car Shampoo)
Wheel Cleaner/Tires: Auto-Fanatic Wheel Cleaning Foam(Adams is fine, but honestly soap/water is probably fine for the limited dust from your brakes)
Degreaser/APC: Meguiars Super Degreaser (I mostly use this for engine bay and wheel wells. Also works fine as a tire cleaner. Comes in a gallon that you dilute and will last you a very long time. I combine it with Meg Hyperdressing in the engine bay. Spray on and walk away)
Drying Aid/Spray Sealant: P&S Bead maker applied after every wash as part of the drying process. Also as a detail spray if you had to. (This can be used on everything, paint, glass, plastics, wheels. Previously I used CG V07 Spray Sealant and liked it as well.)
Tire Dressing: Carpro PERL. Can also be used on the plastics. I use either a foam block or old microfiber that's only used for this job.
Sealant: I apply Blackfire Wet Diamond about every 6 months. (Jescar Powerlock will be what I switch to when I finish this bottle)
Brushes: EZ Detail brush or another like it for barrels, take your pick of a boars hair brush for spokes/lug holes, Tuf shine tire brush (Also use these for under the hood/car).
Assorted microfiber towels for various jobs.

The Adams clay works fine. Paint decontamination and correction is a whole other thing and I've rambled long enough. I'll answer any questions you have though.

Thanks for such a detailed response!

Do you have any recommendations for a Spray Wax? I want to start with a spray and eventually work up to an actual wax. Though there are so many spray waxes, I'm overwhelmed. Spray waxes, spray and seals? Whats the difference?

So far I've been considering:
Turtle Wax Ice Spray Wax
Turtle Wax Ice Seal n Shine
Car Guys Hybrid Spray Wax
Adam's Spray Wax

Someone gave me for free this Eagle One Marine Spray Wax, but will it be okay for my car? Since it says it's for marine use?

Any other suggestions? Or which of these would be the "best"? Thanks again!

 

[Cobra Jet]

I am in the same boat and starting reading so i can detail my cars.

@Cobra Jet do you consider the Porter Cable better that the Groits Grage Polisher?

I like the 3" from either Griots or Adams for our cars.

The Porter Cable 7424 orbital is a well made, high quality polisher. It’s recommended on many forums, because it’s safe, it won t burn clear or painted surfaces and for beginners, there’s really no way you can mess up. The handle is swappable so if you’re a lefty or righty - or you don’t need to use it at all. It has variable speed settings with a click wheel so you can go from 1 through 6, but also variable RPM selections in between the clicks to dial in speed. Put it this way, I’ve had mine for over 10yrs now, never an issue with it and it still performs as new. It has the 6” disc.

Here’s something else that most detailing vendors won’t tell you, especially a place like Griot’s - you don’t need to buy a complete 6” polisher AND and 3” polisher! That’s a lot of wasted money to own (2) different polishers.

I like Griot’s and I have/use many of their products - but don’t be fooled by thinking just because they have a 3” polisher, that it’s “different” or “special”.

You can get the Porter Cable for far less than Griots (or insert other brand here) if you’re shopping online, do google comparisons.

You can then buy the Griot’s (or insert other maker here) 3” pad adapter and a 3” pad kit and install it on the Porter Cable - it’s 100% compatible!

I buy everything from Autopia - there’s always deals. My pad kits, both 6” and 3” I have bought through them. Of course you can shop pad kits too to get best prices, Autopia isn’t the only place to source them.

Here’s the 3” kit w/adapter plate to use on a Porter Cable 7424. This is the kit I purchased that has the yellow backer plate. The reason I chose this one is the backer plate threaded stud is integral just like the original Porter Cable 6” plate and the 3” plate is also Velcro backed so the pad system works the same.

Shop it and get better deals, this is just an example to show the kit needed:

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10515-Orbital-Conversion/dp/B00X608RJ2

———

Here’s a recent DIY thread I did to show how to fix scratches on the black rear deck lid panel - and I used the Porter w/3” pads (pic included):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/trunk-lid-appliqué-scratch-repair-diy.122441/

 

[wcharon]

The Porter Cable 7424 orbital is a well made, high quality polisher. It’s recommended on many forums, because it’s safe, it won t burn clear or painted surfaces and for beginners, there’s really no way you can mess up. The handle is swappable so if you’re a lefty or righty - or you don’t need to use it at all. It has variable speed settings with a click wheel so you can go from 1 through 6, but also variable RPM selections in between the clicks to dial in speed. Put it this way, I’ve had mine for over 10yrs now, never an issue with it and it still performs as new. It has the 6” disc.

Here’s something else that most detailing vendors won’t tell you, especially a place like Griot’s - you don’t need to buy a complete 6” polisher AND and 3” polisher! That’s a lot of wasted money to own (2) different polishers.

I like Griot’s and I have/use many of their products - but don’t be fooled by thinking just because they have a 3” polisher, that it’s “different” or “special”.

You can get the Porter Cable for far less than Griots (or insert other brand here) if you’re shopping online, do google comparisons.

You can then buy the Griot’s (or insert other maker here) 3” pad adapter and a 3” pad kit and install it on the Porter Cable - it’s 100% compatible!

I buy everything from Autopia - there’s always deals. My pad kits, both 6” and 3” I have bought through them. Of course you can shop pad kits too to get best prices, Autopia isn’t the only place to source them.

Here’s the 3” kit w/adapter plate to use on a Porter Cable 7424. This is the kit I purchased that has the yellow backer plate. The reason I chose this one is the backer plate threaded stud is integral just like the original Porter Cable 6” plate and the 3” plate is also Velcro backed so the pad system works the same.

Shop it and get better deals, this is just an example to show the kit needed:

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10515-Orbital-Conversion/dp/B00X608RJ2


Thanks.. For sure I will check that out. Thanks for pointing and clarifying things out. I will also PM you....
———

Here’s a recent DIY thread I did to show how to fix scratches on the black rear deck lid panel - and I used the Porter w/3” pads (pic included):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/trunk-lid-appliqué-scratch-repair-diy.122441/

 

[Labradog]

Thanks for such a detailed response!

Do you have any recommendations for a Spray Wax? Any other suggestions? Or which of these would be the "best"? Thanks again!

The spray sealant I suggested would replace the spray wax. I like Bead Maker or CG V07

 

[Jakester]

The spray sealant I suggested would replace the spray wax. I like Bead Maker or CG V07

Hello people, I'm back with a couple more questions! Sorry to be a bother (Hopefully I'm not!). I'm just trying to learn as much as I can and take the best care of my car as I can.

Question 1: Do you need a 2-Bucket method when washing your car? I have a foam cannon/pressure washer. Couldn't I just....
- Wet the car
- Apply soap/foam
- Rinse off
- Apply soap/foam again
- Wash car with microfiber mitt

Question 2: If I did the method above and had to absolutely get a bucket/grit guard, would i need 2 or just 1? Could I just dip the mitt in the water only bucket and then go back to the car with the soap on it? Or do you still have another bucket with the soap you are using?

I'm not trying to be lazy, but I'm just trying to be cost effective as much as possible since I have buying so many things for the car lately!

Question 3: Favorite soap? As Labradog recommened the CG Honeydew Foam, which is luckily what I already bought! Though is there a soap that actually "Enhances" gloss? For example the CG Glossworks soap? Or is it more of a marketing gimmick? Also how does that work using 2 soaps? Would it be for example applying and rinsing the Honeydew foam and then applying a gloss booster soap and then washing with that?

Question 4: What's the best way to get the best gloss/shine on my car without needing to do a full on wax? I know an actual wax is the best method, but like I mentioned before I want to start easy/small.

Again, thank you so much!

 

[Labradog]

Answer 1: Lot's of different ways to do this. Technically the "safest" method includes 1 bucket and multiple microfiber towels in the soapy water. You fold the towels in quarters and flip to a new side after every 1-2 passes. Here's my procedure, and again, lots of other ways.
-First I clean the wheels/tires/brakes using their own bucket and brushes
-Rinse the rest of the car using the pressure washer
-Foam the car
-Hand wash the car using separate rinse and soap buckets (soap - car - rinse - soap)
-Rinse and pull into my garage
-Apply a few sprays of beadmaker to panels/glass and dry with Groits PFM drying towel (other microfiber towels for underhood, door jams, and trunk)
-Apply beadmaker to a designated wheel towel and use to dry wheels/calipers
-CarPro PERL for tires

Answer 2: I think grit guards are a waste of money. I just dip the mitt/pad in the bucket and scrub it with my other hand

Answer 3: Glossworkz is another great soap, but it's more expensive than Honeydew and I use my spray sealant for gloss anyway.

Answer 4: See Bead Maker. Easy to apply and it will give you more gloss than a wax will.

 

[Texstang]

Question 1: Do you need a 2-Bucket method when washing your car? I have a foam cannon/pressure washer. Couldn't I just....
- Wet the car
- Apply soap/foam
- Rinse off
- Apply soap/foam again
- Wash car with microfiber mitt

I would recommend the two-bucket method if you're doing a full traditional wash (as opposed to a waterless/rinseless). You'll want to minimize the risk of dragging the mitt across the paint while it has dirt particles and such embedded in it. While the soap provides lubrication to also help mitigate this risk, the safest option as Labradog mentioned is to use multiple mitts/towels and discard them into a dirty pile after each panel or few passes. The two-bucket method helps you do this without having to swap out mitts/towels every time. There are multiple techniques out there, but the key is that you want to keep your wash mitt as clean as possible.

My basic wash process is pretty similar to Labradog's, except I don't have a foam cannon and I use different products for drying and trim dressing.

Question 2: If I did the method above and had to absolutely get a bucket/grit guard, would i need 2 or just 1? Could I just dip the mitt in the water only bucket and then go back to the car with the soap on it? Or do you still have another bucket with the soap you are using?

Grit guards have two main purposes: 1) you scrub your mitt against them to loosen the dirt from it, and 2) they are supposed to keep the dirt at the bottom of the rinse bucket and keep it from getting back onto your mitt on your next dunk into the bucket. I like the idea, but I've always been skeptical of how effective they are at #2. I think they're useful to help you scrub your mitt off, but the same could probably be achieved with your hand. That's what I did for a long time and it worked just fine. I picked one up on sale a few years ago for about $5, and I've used it since. To answer your question, the most important bucket to use it in is the rinse bucket since that's where you'll be "decontaminating" your wash mitt.

Keep in mind there's a few designs out there as well. Here's a good video testing a few designs.

Question 3: Favorite soap? As Labradog recommened the CG Honeydew Foam, which is luckily what I already bought! Though is there a soap that actually "Enhances" gloss? For example the CG Glossworks soap? Or is it more of a marketing gimmick? Also how does that work using 2 soaps? Would it be for example applying and rinsing the Honeydew foam and then applying a gloss booster soap and then washing with that?

My opinion: CG products are alright and I've used some of their stuff in the past. They have good sales on Amazon from time to time and I still use their polishing pads that I picked up for a good price. That being said, a lot of their stuff comes down to marketing. They tend to offer several products that basically do the same thing. Their soaps tend to be pretty similar in performance, although they market them for different purposes (foam cannon, general wash soap, different scents, etc.). I'm not familiar with their Glossworks soap, but it's possible that it differs from their other soaps. From the description, it's possible that it has some sort of spray-wax-like after effect. I've used the Honeydew soap and it's good (and you can usually get it for ~$22/gal), but it wasn't necessarily better than other soaps I've tried. There are more specialized (and costly) soaps out there that are more friendly for ceramic coatings and such, but from an overall value standpoint, I would recommend Meguiar's Gold Class. You can usually find it for the same price or slightly cheaper than some of the CG offerings if you get a gallon size, and in my experience, it offers similar performance.

Question 4: What's the best way to get the best gloss/shine on my car without needing to do a full on wax? I know an actual wax is the best method, but like I mentioned before I want to start easy/small.

You can use a product like a spray wax or spray sealant to achieve that, however, they generally won't last all that long, maybe a week or so depending on whether the car still has existing wax/sealant protection and the overall paint condition. They work like a quick-detail spray, so you'll simply use them right after drying the car. Depending on the product, it's usually a spray-on, wipe-off sort of deal. I'd recommend Beadmaker as well. I just got some recently and used it on my girlfriend's car and it seems to work pretty well.


It looks like you have some good equipment to start off with. Once you get some experience, you might start looking into paint correction (not that your new car will likely need much, if any), claying, iron/tar decontamination, and coatings. Happy to answer any questions if you have any.

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