GT4 suspension specs?

[white15gt]

You can’t get them.
You can’t afford them.
You can’t use them all.

Dssv dampers $25000+
Multimatic camber plates.
Multimatic blade sway bars.
Multimatic rear lower control arms.
Cortex monoball control arm bearings.
Stock OEM rear vertical links.
Stock OEM vertical links.
Multimatic rear toe links.
Fully seam welded chassis.

This x100000000

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[rushca01]

So you plan to track. Have you tracked the car in stock trim? What are the weal points you wish to address? How do you know what the weak points are? Are the weak points driver induced? Not trying to sound like an ass but so many people modify just to modify and most of the time make the ride worse, not better.

I was wondering when someone would say this..I thought maybe things would be different but I was wrong. That's why I'm asking...what make sense to change and what doesn't.

I think we could all agree that the stock shifter is less than ideal and the MGW is generally accepted as the gold standard. Should I just use the stock shifter becuase I'm not a professional driver? Do I create more issues by changing it out?

I think we can agree that rubber bushings aren't the best for HPDE and are used as OEM to combat NVH...I'm not worried about NVH so why wouldn't I want to replace rubber bushings. There are parts of the suspension that can be changed without effecting the engineering and deisgn that went it to it. The make certain sacrifices for profit and cost that most casual drivers don't want. I'm not asking for any of it to make me a better driver. Driver is the number one key component of course but why not make subtle changes. When as a driver are you allowed to make changes? Not trying to be snarky, there is a whole aftermarket of parts available, even ford performance racing makes parts.

 

[nastang87xx]

Tob, I seem to remember you had some pics of that bad a** hardware. Maybe you could repost here.



Not suspension related but have to mention the $12k hood, $3400 splitter and who knows on the wing....not for sale that I have seen.

The wing is actually the ARP GT-250. Readily available.

 

[cjgt350]

The wing is actually the APR GT-250. Readily available.

Actually they are two very different wings.

Top picture is the APR GT-250 wing.

 

[Sl13cobra]

This x100000000

I think you can get Multimatic DSSV dampers if you buy a 1LE

 

[cjgt350]

I think you can get Multimatic DSSV dampers if you buy a 1LE

Very different dampeners though....I would call the 1LE your basic DSSV dampener but not to say they are not good dampeners. Race versions such as the ones used on the GT4 or GT-C are next level. Here are some pics that Epiphany posted in another thread.

 

[rushca01]

Very different dampeners though....I would call the 1LE your basic DSSV dampener but not to say they are not good dampeners. Race versions such as the ones used on the GT4 or GT-C are next level. Here are some pics that Epiphany posted in another thread.

That's just plain cool! Thanks for posting.

 

[nastang87xx]

Actually they are two very different wings.

Top picture is the APR GT-250 wing.

Yeah you're right, I thought we were talking about the 350S's wing, which is the GT-250 unit.

 

[nastang87xx]

I think you can get Multimatic DSSV dampers if you buy a 1LE

ZL1 1LE, yes. The SS 1LE uses Magneride.

 

[Zitrosounds]

I was wondering when someone would say this..I thought maybe things would be different but I was wrong. That's why I'm asking...what make sense to change and what doesn't.

I think we could all agree that the stock shifter is less than ideal and the MGW is generally accepted as the gold standard. Should I just use the stock shifter becuase I'm not a professional driver? Do I create more issues by changing it out?

I think we can agree that rubber bushings aren't the best for HPDE and are used as OEM to combat NVH...I'm not worried about NVH so why wouldn't I want to replace rubber bushings. There are parts of the suspension that can be changed without effecting the engineering and deisgn that went it to it. The make certain sacrifices for profit and cost that most casual drivers don't want. I'm not asking for any of it to make me a better driver. Driver is the number one key component of course but why not make subtle changes. When as a driver are you allowed to make changes? Not trying to be snarky, there is a whole aftermarket of parts available, even ford performance racing makes parts.

I think you missed my point. Change what you want when you figured out what needs changing. If you haven't tracked the car, how do you know what it needs? I have used MGW shifters in the past. But the OEM shifter is leaps and bounds ahead of what mustangs have used previously. Is the MGW shifter better? Hell yes. I have tracked two versions of the 350 and yet have I felt the need to replace it.

I completely understand what you are saying. But why not see what works first before swapping parts? Every street going car is a compromise with the ZL1 1LE more on the racing side, yet still not race car. Try the car on for size on the track. Afterwards, You may be surprised how little it needs fiddling with. One thing you will want to do out of the gate, is the ability to adjust camber up front. Either camber bolts or plates will get the job done. The rear has plenty of adjustability in stock trim. Tires are also a good upgrade. The MPSS are great tires but they have a limit on track and get greasy/slippery after significant use.

 

[rushca01]

I think you missed my point. Change what you want when you figured out what needs changing. If you haven't tracked the car, how do you know what it needs? I have used MGW shifters in the past. But the OEM shifter is leaps and bounds ahead of what mustangs have used previously. Is the MGW shifter better? Hell yes. I have tracked two versions of the 350 and yet have I felt the need to replace it.

I completely understand what you are saying. But why not see what works first before swapping parts? Every street going car is a compromise with the ZL1 1LE more on the racing side, yet still not race car. Try the car on for size on the track. Afterwards, You may be surprised how little it needs fiddling with. One thing you will want to do out of the gate, is the ability to adjust camber up front. Either camber bolts or plates will get the job done. The rear has plenty of adjustability in stock trim. Tires are also a good upgrade. The MPSS are great tires but they have a limit on track and get greasy/slippery after significant use.

Thanks! I understand what you are saying, I really do. In my mind it just seems logical to replace some of the rubber bushings at least with poly/delrin to take some of the slop out.

You are exactly right though, I don't want to just throw a hodge podge of parts at the car and waste money in the process and potentially make it worse/unsafe.

What Camber plates do you recommend?

What I'm really leaning towards is simply adding the following:
Forgeline wheels
caliper fexion brake studs for easy of changing pads
R Front springs (if I'm doing camber plates why not)
R rear sway bar

I wouldn't mind changing out some of the rear rubber bushings but I heed your advice.

 

[cjgt350]

Thanks! I understand what you are saying, I really do. In my mind it just seems logical to replace some of the rubber bushings at least with poly/delrin to take some of the slop out.

You are exactly right though, I don't want to just throw a hodge podge of parts at the car and waste money in the process and potentially make it worse/unsafe.

What Camber plates do you recommend?

What I'm really leaning towards is simply adding the following:
Forgeline wheels
caliper fexion brake studs for easy of changing pads
R Front springs (if I'm doing camber plates why not)
R rear sway bar

I wouldn't mind changing out some of the rear rubber bushings but I heed your advice.

That's a good start. Wheel/tire combo with proper camber plates are the best gain on this car in stock form (GT350).

Vorshlag IMO opinion are the best but other good ones are out there.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...5-up-mustang-camber-caster-plates-oem-perches

BMR cradle lockout or Steeda's IRS brace are probably the easiest way to take out a good portion of IRS movement. Further steps are more involved or more difficult installs.

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1543

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html

Next suggestion:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1713&superpro=0

 

[rushca01]

That's a good start. Wheel/tire combo with proper camber plates are the best gain on this car in stock form (GT350).

Vorshlag IMO opinion are the best but other good ones are out there.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...5-up-mustang-camber-caster-plates-oem-perches

BMR cradle lockout or Steeda's IRS brace are probably the easiest way to take out a good portion of IRS movement. Further steps are more involved or more difficult installs.

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1543

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html

Next suggestion:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1713&superpro=0

You have a fantastic build by the way. I have tried to emulate a lot of what you are doing.

 

[cjgt350]

You have a fantastic build by the way. I have tried to emulate a lot of what you are doing.

Thanks. As others have said but bears repeating nothing beats seat time then you can improve and measure with future mods.

 

[5.0 435]

Here’s the winning car @ Sebring last weekend in the conti series. You can’t get a much lower stance then that.

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