Stuntman
Well-Known Member
R's are quite capable in stock form. Well under 2min at VIR. If you do any street driving, and are not a track day hero, going to a (welll set up coilover) is going to have a lot of disadvantages.
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Yep. I can run my E36 for 3-4 weekends for the consumables cost of a weekend in the R, and that's with no damage. I'm also way too timid to really push a car that doesn't have full safety gear. Lapping in the R is a pile of fun, but I will never wring the car out fully.Sounds about right. And yeah, I was just throwing out a widely available yardstick as in, “if you’re not going that fast, you’re not pushing the car.”
I thought I was going to lynched awhile back when I said it should easily go low 20’s at Sebring. Now that I’ve driven it, I see teens! Keep in mind the GT350 has 100 more HP, better brakes, and bigger tires. Offset by a little lack of aero, higher weight, and some rubbery suspension parts. I could see the rear bushings and of course the camber plates being a real nice first mods as someone pointed out earlier.
Great chassis. The downside is the cost of operation as has been pointed out to me by guys who run them. Take out a headlight and it’s crazy money compared to the old cars with their mature aftermarket. Like in $1000 vs $50 crazy.
Honestly for the price of the R you could by a truck/trailer/ and a track car. I have no where to store a trailer though.Sounds about right. And yeah, I was just throwing out a widely available yardstick as in, “if you’re not going that fast, you’re not pushing the car.”
I thought I was going to lynched awhile back when I said it should easily go low 20’s at Sebring. Now that I’ve driven it, I see teens! Keep in mind the GT350 has 100 more HP, better brakes, and bigger tires. Offset by a little lack of aero, higher weight, and some rubbery suspension parts. I could see the rear bushings and of course the camber plates being a real nice first mods as someone pointed out earlier.
Great chassis. The downside is the cost of operation as has been pointed out to me by guys who run them. Take out a headlight and it’s crazy money compared to the old cars with their mature aftermarket. Like in $1000 vs $50 crazy.
I don't think this car is for a track rat. If a person is planning to buy the car strictly for the track there are better all around track cars for less $.Honestly for the price of the R you could by a truck/trailer/ and a track car. I have no where to store a trailer though.
My consumables are 2 / 3 times the guys I run with that is before you include track insurance which they do not get.
Me and a few friends have a Chump (now Champ) car as our track mochine. No doubt the consumables and cost of damage to a new GT350 is high. So is the cost of operating a 911's, GT3RS's, Z06's etc. From my experience the cars that I see at the track that belong to "track rats" are S2000, E46, Miata's and the likes.I don't think this car is for a track rat. If a person is planning to buy the car strictly for the track there are better all around track cars for less $.
But - the combination of street and track ability, fun, style and uniqueness (I still have yet to see another R in person and only 2-3 non Rs ever) is unmatched in this price range, IMHO.
Sure! But then cost is not a factor is it?Unless you're rich and don't want to track your P1, 918, 720S, Lamborghini. Then the Z06, 350R, 1LE, GT3 is your track rat.
It's all relative. They can afford to write off a $100k car and would prefer not to write off their $1M car. Meanwhile most people who can afford a $60-100k car would be better off with a $10-30K track car if they enjoy it and are serious about driving. Rather than not pushing or learning the limits of a car they can barely afford.Sure! But then cost is not a factor is it?
I guess it is all relative. However! I do push my cars on track and why I purchase insurance. Albeit, if we ball up our chumpcar it's easily replaceable LOLIt's all relative. They can afford to write off a $100k car and would prefer not to write off their $1M car. Meanwhile most people who can afford a $60-100k car would be better off with a $10-30K track car if they enjoy it and are serious about driving. Rather than not pushing or learning the limits of a car they can barely afford.
Honestly for me the consumables are ok the insurance kills me.I guess it is all relative. However! I do push my cars on track and why I purchase insurance. Albeit, if we ball up our chumpcar it's easily replaceable LOL
Solid input, thank you sir.OP, one thing we haven’t discussed is a bushing upgrade in the rear. The rear in this car can be twitchy, especially when pushing it hard with grippy tires in high speed corners; particularly when you are squeezing hard on the throttle tracking out. The bushing upgrade remedies this and really inspires confidence. You don’t need to upgrade everything either. Focus on the IRS cradle bushings, and both the upper and lower control arm bushings. This mod stiffens up the rear nicely. Since you have an R, I would probably leave the springs and sway bars alone.
If you’re inclined you may also want grab a DSC tuner to get the most out the stock dampers. Although I don’t think coilovers will be a notable upgrade over tuned stock dampers, I know that 949 racing is testing a coilover setup for this car. They run competitive events in their car too. I think they could provide you the best intel on your initial question.
Thank you sir. We want to trailer our cars down to FL for a weekend at Sebring. I’ll DM you to discuss dates. Thanks again.Ken - I put a few laps on my R at Sebring this fall. Frankly, I was so amazed at the level of grip and behavior of the car that it literally made me giggle. That’s saying something from a guy who has put 10 years of racing laps in Mustangs at Sebring. And the brakes and engine are equally amazing.
I’m emphasizing Sebring because it is a challenging track that favors a compliant setup. However, the same compliant setup that works at Sebring works at many other tracks wher you hit curbs, etc. It didn’t take more than a couple corners to realize that the car needs a seat and harness before you can even enjoy/approach its limits 100% stock. So, imho, springs and bars are a waste until you have control of the car in its stock form. The limits are high.
The first mods should be seat, roll bar, harness and then, when you’re quicker than the American Iron lap record for your track(not a high bar given this car’s capability), consider throwing some parts at it to see what happens.
Until then, enjoy what you paid for. It’s a sweet setup that you can still drive on the street. :ford:
For me it's the safety more than the money. Yes, I get track insurance for the R, but my R is a lot faster than my BMW and it has a lot less safety equipment. Street car w/ 3-pt belts vs. roll cage, halo seats, harnesses/nets, fire extinguisher.I guess it is all relative. However! I do push my cars on track and why I purchase insurance. Albeit, if we ball up our chumpcar it's easily replaceable LOL
True! I should better qualify my prior statement about pushing my cars. I give about 8/10ths except for the Chump (Saturn) car. I Oddly enough the Chump car is outfitted with cage, fire suppression etc. and it is much , much slower than the R. LOL We give that car the BEANSFor me it's the safety more than the money. Yes, I get track insurance for the R, but my R is a lot faster than my BMW and it has a lot less safety equipment. Street car w/ 3-pt belts vs. roll cage, halo seats, harnesses/nets, fire extinguisher.