GT350/R center Gauge pods

[MrXXX0]

Was finally able to order a GT350/R center gauge pod , install it and replace the stock one that had oil pressure and vacuum. Now it has a higher oil pressure read out (meh) but more importantly it has oil temp now. If anyone would like to tell me what the vacuum gauge was for besides just being a gauge that moves with on and off throttle inputs I'm all ears. I'm pretty sure the only reason they have that vac gauge is because of just how much it moves with inputs and most people like seeing gauges move.
With the install it was pretty straight forward. Pull carefully on the dash trim from passenger side, it's gonna sound like it's snapping and breaking but it's not. When you get to the center be careful because the harness plugged into the pod isn't all that long and could easily be ripped out. After that switch over the pods with a T20 bit. Plug the pod in then press the trim back in working it from steering wheel side to passenger side and then you're done. Check and make sure lights come on and pressure and temp gauges function. One down side for some would be the lose of my color on the center gauges but I already had mine set to Grey so it's not noticed by me. Just a heads up for that if you're interested.
Part number is pictured in 3rd pic

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[Atlas1]

I’d like to do this but I’m not sure I have the nerve to remove the dash trim

 

[traxiii]

The vacuum gauge is mainly for playing mileage games as the higher the vacuum the better your MPG. (Hint: foot off the loud peddle=higher MPG) There were a few other things you could use it for back when engines had carburetors and distributors that were partially controlled by vacuum levels from the engine. Totally useless today, unless it's a vacuum/boost gauge on a forced induction engine.

 

[crzystang]

I would do this in a heart beat if I could keep the my color! That’s honestly all that’s holding me back.

 

[Rapid Red]

It can actually tell a lot about an engine. Of course, we have a digital resource onboard. Here are a few.

Normal Engine Operation
At idle, an engine should show a steady vacuum reading between 17″ and 21″. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5″ then rebound to 21″, or more.

General Ignition Issues or Sticky Valves
With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap, or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may indicate sticky valves.

Intake System Leakage, Valve Timing, or Low Compression
Vacuum readings at idle that are much lower than normal can indicate leaky intake manifold gaskets, manifold-to-carburetor gaskets, vacuum brakes, or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be very late valve timing or worn piston rings.

Exhaust Back Pressure
Starting with the engine at idle, slowly increase engine speed to 3,000 RPM, engine vacuum should be equal to or higher than idle vacuum at 3,000 RPM. If vacuum decreases at higher engine RPMs, excessive exhaust backpressure is likely present.

Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage
With the engine Idling, the vacuum gauge indicator will sharply drop every time the leak occurs. The drop will be from the steady reading shown by the pointer to a reading of 10″ to 12″, or less. If the leak Is between two cylinders, the drop will be much greater. Determine the location of the leak by performing a compression test.

Fuel Control System Troubles
All other systems in an engine must be functioning properly before you check the fuel control system as a cause for poor engine performance. If the pointer has a slow floating motion of 4 to 5 inches – you should check the fuel control.

A Note About Diagnosing Transmission Problems
An important part of transmission diagnosis is to make certain the engine operates properly. If the engine performance is incorrect, the transmission will receive the wrong information. Many times what is perceived as a transmission problem is actually an engine problem.

The engine sends signals to the transmission through a vacuum line, throttle cable, or both. These signals basically synchronize torque with transmission line pressure, shift feel, and shift timing. Malfunctions in items like the air filter; spark plugs, EGR valves, and other parts of the fuel, electrical, and emission systems could result in improper transmission performance.

 

[MrXXX0]

I’d like to do this but I’m not sure I have the nerve to remove the dash trim

It's honestly really simple just take your time and be careful when pulling the dash trim.

 

[MrXXX0]

I would do this in a heart beat if I could keep the my color! That’s honestly all that’s holding me back.

I've always had mine either set to green or grey so it wasn't a hard decision for me. It's a worthy upgrade if you decide to go with the pods.

 

[MrXXX0]

It can actually tell a lot about an engine. Of course, we have a digital resource onboard. Here are a few.

Normal Engine Operation
At idle, an engine should show a steady vacuum reading between 17″ and 21″. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5″ then rebound to 21″, or more.

General Ignition Issues or Sticky Valves
With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap, or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may indicate sticky valves.

Intake System Leakage, Valve Timing, or Low Compression
Vacuum readings at idle that are much lower than normal can indicate leaky intake manifold gaskets, manifold-to-carburetor gaskets, vacuum brakes, or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be very late valve timing or worn piston rings.

Exhaust Back Pressure
Starting with the engine at idle, slowly increase engine speed to 3,000 RPM, engine vacuum should be equal to or higher than idle vacuum at 3,000 RPM. If vacuum decreases at higher engine RPMs, excessive exhaust backpressure is likely present.

Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage
With the engine Idling, the vacuum gauge indicator will sharply drop every time the leak occurs. The drop will be from the steady reading shown by the pointer to a reading of 10″ to 12″, or less. If the leak Is between two cylinders, the drop will be much greater. Determine the location of the leak by performing a compression test.

Fuel Control System Troubles
All other systems in an engine must be functioning properly before you check the fuel control system as a cause for poor engine performance. If the pointer has a slow floating motion of 4 to 5 inches – you should check the fuel control.

A Note About Diagnosing Transmission Problems
An important part of transmission diagnosis is to make certain the engine operates properly. If the engine performance is incorrect, the transmission will receive the wrong information. Many times what is perceived as a transmission problem is actually an engine problem.

The engine sends signals to the transmission through a vacuum line, throttle cable, or both. These signals basically synchronize torque with transmission line pressure, shift feel, and shift timing. Malfunctions in items like the air filter; spark plugs, EGR valves, and other parts of the fuel, electrical, and emission systems could result in improper transmission performance.

Lol Well there it is. Thanks for the info for real

 

[crzystang]

I've always had mine either set to green or grey so it wasn't a hard decision for me. It's a worthy upgrade if you decide to go with the pods.

I use green also. So that’s an option…

 

[VictorH]

I would do this in a heart beat if I could keep the my color! That’s honestly all that’s holding me back.

What about the center gauges from a 2021-22 GT500? Do they have OP and Temp or is it OP and Boost?
Maybe get MyColor that way?

 

[MrXXX0]

I use green also. So that’s an option…

Green isn't available on these these., just grey. I was saying I only ever used green or grey so it wasn't hard for me to get used to these.

 

[MrXXX0]

What about the center gauges from a 2021-22 GT500? Do they have OP and Temp or is it OP and Boost?
Maybe get MyColor that way?

GT500 gauges are the same Oil Pressure and Temperature gauges in grey. Pretty sure the part number is the exact same from the GT350/R so Ford didn't update it for the GT500. Just tossed it in there.

 

[crzystang]

GT500 gauges are the same Oil Pressure and Temperature gauges in grey. Pretty sure the part number is the exact same from the GT350/R so Ford didn't update it for the GT500. Just tossed it in there.

This is correct I checked my buddies 500 just to make sure

 

[Atlas1]

GT500 gauges are the same Oil Pressure and Temperature gauges in grey. Pretty sure the part number is the exact same from the GT350/R so Ford didn't update it for the GT500. Just tossed it in there.

Where did you order from?

 

[Rapid Red]

GT500 gauges are the same Oil Pressure and Temperature gauges in grey. Pretty sure the part number is the exact same from the GT350/R so Ford didn't update it for the GT500. Just tossed it in there.

Out of curiosity, how did the gauge that replaced the vacuum get recognized by the system?

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