Got the wheels I wanted, looking for advice on my next steps...

[Mach VII]

Hi all, just upgraded my 2019 GT 401A non-PP GT to 19x10 ET32 wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme Sport 285/35/19 which made a huge difference (to me) in ride quality which I was not expecting. Most of my driving is relaxed but at times I will open it up and enjoy a few curves so looking to enhance the buttoned-down feel and lower my ride height slightly. From my reading here I feel that the Steeda minimum drop springs on either Bilstein B6 or the FRRP track springs/struts will provide what I'm looking for. Looking to keep costs down so the FRRP kit is a bit less expensive however I can buy the Bilsteins from Steeda and get the springs preinstalled. For the rear, BMR's CB005 cradle brace is being considered. Never used a spring compressor before so not sure how difficult a job that is and in general was wondering if this is a job I want to do on jack stands on my dirt driveway with hand tools/non-impact cordless drill. I've done plenty of wrenching but also know enough to ask if I'm getting in over my head first before touching a car with 1000 miles on it. Anything else I should consider if teardown is already happening or perhaps is needed to work with my planned mods? Thanks in advance...

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[NightmareMoon]

Generally I'd say leave the suspension alone, and get a good alignment to start, but you have the base (non-PP) and yeah the suspension is a bit too soft on those cars and an upgrade would be a nice change, especially if you don't go too crazy.

Avoid going too low - Steeda min drop look like pretty good rates and a reasonable drop at 1/2". 3/4" is about the maximum you can lower without too many negative side effects to roll center, suspension travel, and daily driveability. Definitely upgrade your shocks (FRPP or Bilsteins are good). Don't throw too many parts at the rear suspension - the CB005 is a good place to start, see how that feels before doing much more.

One solution to the spring compressor is to get take the stock springs/shocks to a shop and let the shop disassemble them with a spring compressor and reassemble with your new struts and springs. Just that part alone should be cheap and will save you significant sweat. The type of spring compressors you can rent are no fun to use, and a little dangerous. The type the shop will probably have is much easier. Remember to trim the bump stops a bit for the new lower ride height.

Honestly I'd rather do that kind of work on a lift (and did). The rear suspension doesn't require spring compressors, but you do need to drop that side of the rear subframe to get the springs in/out. Its not too bad but a second set of hands is always useful. Since you only have to drop one side of the subframe at a time, getting it back up exactly where it started doesn't require any other parts or centering tools.

The main thing with any suspension height changes is to "clock the bushings" at the new ride height (i.e. with the full weight of the car on the suspension). That means loosening and retightening all of the pivot points in the front and rear suspension which have bound rubber bushings. The best way to do that is on an alignment rack, so that part at least you'll probably need to have a shop do. This is a critical step to get the car to rest at the right height without preload. failing to do that can cause uneven ride height and some quirky results in general. You'll need an alignment after that too. The springs won't 'settle' on their own w/o this 'clock the bushings' step.

 

[NightmareMoon]

FWIW, the Steeda Min Drop springs are sporty but streetable, and about half way between the base springs and what Ford puts on the GT350R.

 

[Mach VII]

Generally I'd say leave the suspension alone, and get a good alignment to start, but you have the base (non-PP) and yeah the suspension is a bit too soft on those cars and an upgrade would be a nice change, especially if you don't go too crazy.

Avoid going too low - Steeda min drop look like pretty good rates and a reasonable drop at 1/2". 3/4" is about the maximum you can lower without too many negative side effects to roll center, suspension travel, and daily driveability. Definitely upgrade your shocks (FRPP or Bilsteins are good). Don't throw too many parts at the rear suspension - the CB005 is a good place to start, see how that feels before doing much more.

One solution to the spring compressor is to get take the stock springs/shocks to a shop and let the shop disassemble them with a spring compressor and reassemble with your new struts and springs. Just that part alone should be cheap and will save you significant sweat. The type of spring compressors you can rent are no fun to use, and a little dangerous. The type the shop will probably have is much easier. Remember to trim the bump stops a bit for the new lower ride height.

Honestly I'd rather do that kind of work on a lift (and did). The rear suspension doesn't require spring compressors, but you do need to drop that side of the rear subframe to get the springs in/out. Its not too bad but a second set of hands is always useful. Since you only have to drop one side of the subframe at a time, getting it back up exactly where it started doesn't require any other parts or centering tools.

The main thing with any suspension height changes is to "clock the bushings" at the new ride height (i.e. with the full weight of the car on the suspension). That means loosening and retightening all of the pivot points in the front and rear suspension which have bound rubber bushings. The best way to do that is on an alignment rack, so that part at least you'll probably need to have a shop do. This is a critical step to get the car to rest at the right height without preload. failing to do that can cause uneven ride height and some quirky results in general. You'll need an alignment after that too. The springs won't 'settle' on their own w/o this 'clock the bushings' step.

FWIW, the Steeda Min Drop springs are sporty but streetable, and about half way between the base springs and what Ford puts on the GT350R.

Thanks for the input. Would it be beneficial to simply change the dampers and add the brace then see how it feels?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Thanks for the input. Would it be beneficial to simply change the dampers and add the brace then see how it feels?

yeah, but on the front axle, its just as much work to swap new springs in there since you have to disassemble the struts to change the front dampers anyway.

On the rear axle its much easier to just swap shocks, doing springs too is 3x more work, but honestly some stiffer springs will suit the car so IMHO its worth doing both at the same time.

 

[Mach VII]

It's a start....

Think I am going to do the Bilstein B6/Steeda minimum drop springs unless I find a great deal on the FRRP pieces.... I believe there is a Ford underbody brace I am missing up front though if there is a preferred aftermarket version to be had I'm all ears..

n/m Found the right thread, parts ordered!

 

[Dave TBG]

FWIW, the Steeda Min Drop springs are sporty but streetable, and about half way between the base springs and what Ford puts on the GT350R.

I consider the GT350R springs sporty but streetable. YMMV. ;)

 

[Dave TBG]

It's a start....

Think I am going to do the Bilstein B6/Steeda minimum drop springs unless I find a great deal on the FRRP pieces.... I believe there is a Ford underbody brace I am missing up front though if there is a preferred aftermarket version to be had I'm all ears..

n/m Found the right thread, parts ordered!

Take a peek under your car. I ordered the parts and when it came time to install it, there was already one there.

 

[Mach VII]

Take a peek under your car. I ordered the parts and when it came time to install it, there was already one there.

No such luck.......

 

[Mach VII]

Revisiting this as I am collecting parts. I have purchased the B6 shocks/struts and will be getting the Steeda min drop springs. Looking for recommendations on a 'sport' alignment and help in deciding between camber plates or camber bolts. Any input is appreciated!

Mods already installed - STB and bracing for PP1 top and bottom, above mention wheels/tires, CB005 waiting to be installed

 

[NightmareMoon]

Revisiting this as I am collecting parts. I have purchased the B6 shocks/struts and will be getting the Steeda min drop springs. Looking for recommendations on a 'sport' alignment and help in deciding between camber plates or camber bolts. Any input is appreciated!

Mods already installed - STB and bracing for PP1 top and bottom, above mention wheels/tires, CB005 waiting to be installed

You don't really need to correct camber on a mild drop (unless you want MORE camber). With a mild drop you'll pickup a bit extra camber versus stock but it really only makes the front tires grip a little better it corners and the downsides for tire wear are really minimal.

Camber plates are better for adjustment, and the only option if you want to make a big change. Camber bolts 'work' for small adjustments. Neither are really needed tho for a mild drop.

 

[Mach VII]

Alright, B6 struts and shocks and Steeda minimum drop springs, bump stops, camber bolts, bushing kit for BMR CB005. Not shown are before mentioned CB005 and BMR jacking rails (short). I am considering J&M adjustable shock mounts based on reading here though wonder if really necessary... still looking for input on alignment, thinking somewhere around 1.5 - 2.0 negative camber in front and 1.2 - 1.5 in the rear. Zero toe front and .1 toe in for the back (.2 total) with zero thrust angle. Any thoughts?

 

[bnightstar]

still looking for input on alignment, thinking somewhere around 1.5 - 2.0 negative camber in front and 1.2 - 1.5 in the rear. Zero toe front and .1 toe in for the back (.2 total) with zero thrust angle. Any thoughts?

Camber plates are good to have for me because the camber is not adjustable otherwise and you are changing shocks and struts anyway. With that in mind I also suggest you add a front swaybar Steeda or Eibach should be good. Regarding alignment the numbers looks great so go with that.

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