GFB DV+ Help!

[Ecto1]

So I removed my bypass valve & have a nifty new DV+ but I can't figure out how to disassemble the d@mn OE diverter. The OE part is CJ5G-9U465-BA (with the yellow O-Ring). I can get the center plunger out but that's it. The DV+ doesn't fit flush against the yellow O-Ring with just the plunger removed. I've pulled & pulled on the plunger collar but can't get anything else to come apart. What's the trick?

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[Buldawg76]

I had to grab the outer edge of the collar with pliers where the center plunger fit and squeeze the collar a bit to egg shape it while barely rotating it to break the plastic of the collar loose from the main housing, then it all went together as the instruction state. Just don't squeeze too much to crack the collar.

Hope this helps.

BD

 

[Ecto1]

Thanks. I finally got it separated. It wasn't easy and took a substantial amount of force. When it finally popped free it flew across the room. I trashed the Teflon diaphragm in the process. Oh well. But I have the valve ready to re-install.

Can I use synthetic grease instead of motor oil to lube the brass/bronze piston? Or is that bad idea?

 

[Buldawg76]

No grease, just some motor oil off the dipstick is fine and only need a drop since the oil mist that is present in the intake system from normal PCV operation will keep it lubed after initial install.

Glad you got it together.

BD

 

[Ecto1]

Thanks. The valve is now back in the car. I used silicone spray for assembly although I don't think any lube was needed. The piston fit easily and moves freely. We'll see how it goes.

I've read a few posts (here and other forums) that the piston needs re-oiled periodically. I'm trying to prevent that. The OEM valve uses the Teflon collar/diaphragm that provides an air tight seal & lubrication for life. Shame GFB didn't adopt a similar approach. If my silicone lube proves troublesome I'll switch to oil. Or maybe a silicone spray + Teflon. I was out of silicone + Teflon or I would've used it during assembly.

 

[Buldawg76]

I do not agree with the piston needing periodic reoiling since there is always some oil mist being circulated in the intake air flow that is drawn out of the crankcase at idle from the PCV system and that is more than enough to keep the GFB piston lubed during normal use. I have read the same post but do not buy into it.

I guess I will find out the next time I have mine off and see if any wear has occurred.

BD

 

[Ecto1]

Do you know if an Air Oil Separator (aka "Catch Can") impacts the oil vapors in the intake? In theory it eliminates them entirely but like Yogi Berra says: "In theory, there's no difference between practice and theory. In practice, there is."

I'm planning on the UPR "Dual Catch Can" system so if it truly eliminates the oil vapors from the PCV system(s), or significantly reduces them, then they won't help lubricate the DV+ piston. At least not in my engine.

 

[Buldawg76]

Yes, a catch can will help reduce the oil vapors in the intake system but still does not totally eliminate 100% of oil vapors in systems so there is still enough vapor volume to lube the piston of the GFB IMO.

I have a JLT catch can with a UPR 100 psi check valve in the intake side hose 2" from the intake quick connecter so pretty much the same as a UPR dual catch can system just less plumbing and places for leaks to develop. I see no need for the UPR dual systems connection at the turbo inlet IMO.

I have not had any issues with my GFB kit in 5000+ miles so far and do not expect any either from lack of lubrication.

BD

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