Front Endlink Installation Advice

[K-Roll302]

In the never-ending battle to stop a subtle and quiet rattle-clunk sound from my PP front suspension, I'm replacing my stock endlinks again. I say "again" because I'd replaced the passenger side link a year ago and thought the process was as simple as unbolt-remove-install-torque. But after reading different threads and posts on them, I'm getting mixed information on the PROPER installation process and would like some clarification:

Does the swaybar require "preloading" prior to bolting up the new endlinks? If so, what exactly is this preload and how do I achieve it? Is this something that can be done with the front end in the air and both wheels off?

Thank you!

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[wildcatgoal]

If you are using stock end links, there is no pre-loading that can be done. Just install them.

If you are using adjustable end links, start with stock length, then when the car is full weight and your equal weight is in the driver seat, pull out the pre-load on the bar. How to do this is well-documented on the YouTubes.

 

[K-Roll302]

If you are using stock end links, there is no pre-loading that can be done. Just install them.

If you are using adjustable end links, start with stock length, then when the car is full weight and your equal weight is in the driver seat, pull out the pre-load on the bar. How to do this is well-documented on the YouTubes.

So preload only applies to adjustable endlinks and/or endlinks that differ from the length of the OEMs? The one's I'll be getting are not adjustable but should be stock length. As such I can just install them like I did before then?

 

[BMR Tech]

If you have excessive preload with the stock system, you can make slight improvements....but it really is not the way to go.

On previous chassis Mustangs, you mount everything then loosen the sway bar mounting saddles...then re-tighten.

Since the S550 Mustang uses a flat horizontal style bar mount instead of the previous vertical style, the only way to remove excessive preload effectively without grinding or slotting holes is to determine what side bar mount needs to be shimmed up and make a thin small shim to remove the preload.

Naturally, adjustable aftermarket links ARE the best solution.

Good luck.

 

[Norm Peterson]

So preload only applies to adjustable endlinks and/or endlinks that differ from the length of the OEMs? The one's I'll be getting are not adjustable but should be stock length. As such I can just install them like I did before then?

Preload for a sta-bar means that you're putting the center section in torsion, and this could be for a number of reasons. It's not when the arms of the bar are angled a little different from OE but are angled the same amount different on both sides, if that makes sense.

It's when you have to push a bar end up/down to get the last bolt in or push up a chassis-side bracket that you have bar preload.


Norm

 

[K-Roll302]

If you have excessive preload with the stock system, you can make slight improvements....but it really is not the way to go.

On previous chassis Mustangs, you mount everything then loosen the sway bar mounting saddles...then re-tighten.

Since the S550 Mustang uses a flat horizontal style bar mount instead of the previous vertical style, the only way to remove excessive preload effectively without grinding or slotting holes is to determine what side bar mount needs to be shimmed up and make a thin small shim to remove the preload.

Naturally, adjustable aftermarket links ARE the best solution.

Good luck.

If I understand this correctly, then I've never really dealt with preload as much an issue in the past, or ever in my car experience.

Preload for a sta-bar means that you're putting the center section in torsion, and this could be for a number of reasons. It's not when the arms of the bar are angled a little different from OE but are angled the same amount different on both sides, if that makes sense.

It's when you have to push a bar end up/down to get the last bolt in or push up a chassis-side bracket that you have bar preload.


Norm

I've never had to push the bar up or down to get bolts in the bracket or anything close. I reckon I don't have any, or if I do, little to no preload then?

 

[Norm Peterson]

I've never had to push the bar up or down to get bolts in the bracket or anything close. I reckon I don't have any, or if I do, little to no preload then?

As long as the car was sitting on reasonably level ground, you'd have little or no preload. If one corner (or diagonally opposite corners) was/were sitting on either high spots or low spots, you'd get some preload once you got the car onto level ground.


Norm

 

[Racerx009]

If you are using stock end links, there is no pre-loading that can be done. Just install them.

If you are using adjustable end links, start with stock length, then when the car is full weight and your equal weight is in the driver seat, pull out the pre-load on the bar. How to do this is well-documented on the YouTubes.

There aren't really any good step by step tutorials especially on the S550

 

[Norm Peterson]

Not seeing how adjusting the length of an endlink for an S550 would be any different from adjusting the length of an endlink for any other car.


Norm

 

[Racerx009]

Not seeing how adjusting the length of an endlink for an S550 would be any different from adjusting the length of an endlink for any other car.
The only difference that I can is in the rear of the car you can fine tune in better than a live axle


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

Norm Peterson said: ↑
Not seeing how adjusting the length of an endlink for an S550 would be any different from adjusting the length of an endlink for any other car.

The only difference that I can is in the rear of the car you can fine tune in better than a live axle

An IRS car usually is more sensitive to any given change in bar stiffness, but a front endlink length change to eliminate bar preload doesn't change the bar stiffness.


You might have to think out of the usual box, but I bet it's possible to get stick axle tuning ability closer to IRS tuning ability than most people think. Once you get the geo roll center heights comparable, I think mostly it's about the difference in rear unsprung mass and its lateral load transfer term, which can't be redistributed via roll stiffness rebalancing.

Norm

 

[Racerx009]

Norm Peterson said: ↑
Not seeing how adjusting the length of an endlink for an S550 would be any different from adjusting the length of an endlink for any other car.
I adjusted my sway bars so their was no preload

An IRS car usually is more sensitive to any given change in bar stiffness, but a front endlink length change to eliminate bar preload doesn't change the bar stiffness.


You might have to think out of the usual box, but I bet it's possible to get stick axle tuning ability closer to IRS tuning ability than most people think. Once you get the geo roll center heights comparable, I think mostly it's about the difference in rear unsprung mass and its lateral load transfer term, which can't be redistributed via roll stiffness rebalancing.

Norm

 

[wildcatgoal]

There aren't really any good step by step tutorials especially on the S550

Okay, maybe I'll make a video if I can get time in the next few weekends. But no different than any other car.

 

[Racerx009]

Okay, maybe I'll make a video if I can get time in the next few weekends. But no different than any other car.

That would be great

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