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tbonez3858

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Is anyone going to go down the path of making their Mustang a flyweight? I've always added HP but this time around Im thinking about reducing weight first. Im checking out the light weight batteries, wheels, exhaust etc....The backseat has to stay but anything that reduces weight will be considered as long as I can maintain the DD capabilities...
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WestRace

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Lighter battery, CF hood, CF trunk, CF roof (though difficult to install), seat, CF drive shaft, CF front brakes ($8K), CF engine intake.

But one has to weigh the cost vs. benefit. I at least want to wait for the GT350 to see how much it will cost and how much weight will be reduced by Ford. IF the base GT350 will be only around 10K more than the GT, then one might as well go with the GT350.
 
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tbonez3858

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Lighter battery, CF hood, CF trunk, CF roof (though difficult to install), seat, CF drive shaft, CF front brakes ($8K), CF engine intake.

But one has to weigh the cost vs. benefit. I at least want to wait for the GT350 to see how much it will cost and how much weight will be reduced by Ford. IF the base GT350 will be only around 10K more than the GT, then one might as well go with the GT350.
Definitely agree on waiting for the GT350...I have a bad feeling its going to come in at 60-70k. If it does and I go with the GT I think I would like to shed at least 100 pounds.
 

Grimace427

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Realistically:

Exhaust-(save maybe 30lbs plus better sound)
Seats-(fixed buckets can save 50lbs/pair even over the base cloth reclining seats)
Wheels-(save 20-40lbs(5-10lbs each) of both static, unsprung, and rotational weight)
Driveshaft-(save between 10-25lbs going to AL or CF depending on what the production version is)


After that throwing CF parts here and there will cost way more than their returns.
 

Reds197

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Stock Driveshaft is 48-49 lbs. Aluminum is 18.
Mufflers are an additional 30lbs.
On the 2014 you could get an after market K-member that saved 40 lbs.
 

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tbonez3858

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Realistically:

Exhaust-(save maybe 30lbs plus better sound)
Seats-(fixed buckets can save 50lbs/pair even over the base cloth reclining seats)
Wheels-(save 20-40lbs(5-10lbs each) of both static, unsprung, and rotational weight)
Driveshaft-(save between 10-25lbs going to AL or CF depending on what the production version is)


After that throwing CF parts here and there will cost way more than their returns.
I can live with that...If I can break 100 pounds and then lose twenty myself I think I would feel it..Especially if some of the weight is un-sprung (wheels)...
 

Grimace427

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Stock Driveshaft is 48-49 lbs. Aluminum is 18.
Mufflers are an additional 30lbs.
On the 2014 you could get an after market K-member that saved 40 lbs.

Stock driveshaft is 37 pounds. An AL shaft drops 20lbs at most. The K-Member by itself weighs 44lbs. Replacing it with a tubular k-member drops only 20lbs.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/bmr-tubular-k-member-with-lowered-motor-mounts-2011-2014/p/KM18-V/
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-11.html


 

wproctor411

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Realistically:

Exhaust-(save maybe 30lbs plus better sound)
Seats-(fixed buckets can save 50lbs/pair even over the base cloth reclining seats)
Wheels-(save 20-40lbs(5-10lbs each) of both static, unsprung, and rotational weight)
Driveshaft-(save between 10-25lbs going to AL or CF depending on what the production version is)


After that throwing CF parts here and there will cost way more than their returns.
Those are classic weight reduction mods for an easy removal of 125lbs , and toss the spare and jack in a buddies car while your at the track or strip and save another 50+.

2 piece brake rotors saved about 7lbs per wheel as well. I'm using Wilwoods, which saved & lbs rotating mass while adding about 1 lb more per caliper (WA6). Well have to see what else springs up from the aftermarket companies.
 
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tbonez3858

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Those are classic weight reduction mods for an easy removal of 125lbs , and toss the spare and jack in a buddies car while your at the track or strip and save another 50+.

2 piece brake rotors saved about 7lbs per wheel as well. I'm using Wilwoods, which saved & lbs rotating mass while adding about 1 lb more per caliper (WA6). Well have to see what else springs up from the aftermarket companies.

Be interesting to see how much MPGs go up with pulling a solid 125 to 150 out of the car...Did the last generation of 5.0 see an improvement in MPGs with a CAI and exhaust?
 

wproctor411

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Be interesting to see how much MPGs go up with pulling a solid 125 to 150 out of the car...Did the last generation of 5.0 see an improvement in MPGs with a CAI and exhaust?
It's hard to say how much, I've been told every 200lbs = 3% fuel savings???? can anyone verify this crap?
But most of our cars get lowered, with stiffer suspensions, so who the hell knows what that will do.

We take drives up to Chicago and down to Louisville a few times each year and on the flat highways I easily get 28+mpg without resetting the mpgs on the computer. If I reset the computer just while on the highway it's 31-32mpg all day long on the flat highways. My city driving mpgs are 12-20 depending on many factors. Sometimes it could read 10mpgs after leaving the drag strip.
3.55 gears, 295/45/18 rear tires.
 

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wproctor411

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Stock driveshaft is 37 pounds. An AL shaft drops 20lbs at most. The K-Member by itself weighs 44lbs. Replacing it with a tubular k-member drops only 20lbs.
Don't leave out the brackets and bolts, those were easily another 1-2 lbs! :lol:
 

SVTFreak

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Wait. Carbon fiber roof? Seriously?

Let me cut out one of the most important structures of the car, replace it with a fancy fiberglass, bolt it in and put up with more noise and vibration and chassis flex to save maybe 10 lbs? If you're going to spend that kind if cash for ounces (ok that's a little exaggerated), just buy a body in white and build your own car.

People, be realistic. Glad to see more intelligent people are chiming in with very realistic weight loss ideas.
 

Grimace427

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Wait. Carbon fiber roof? Seriously?

Let me cut out one of the most important structures of the car, replace it with a fancy fiberglass, bolt it in and put up with more noise and vibration and chassis flex to save maybe 10 lbs? If you're going to spend that kind if cash for ounces (ok that's a little exaggerated), just buy a body in white and build your own car.

People, be realistic. Glad to see more intelligent people are chiming in with very realistic weight loss ideas.

Exactly why I made my first post. There are things people swap out anyway for reasons other than weight reduction, a little more research can allow those people to kill two birds with one aftermarket part.
 

Dannyho

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people should also be aware that carbon fiber hoods and body parts aren't that impressive from a weight savings perspective when the original part is aluminum. If the stock hood is steel, yea it can be significant, but on cars I've had with aluminum hoods the $/lb ratio was pretty much crap. Just trying to keep expectations realistic.
 

Grimace427

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Anyone really interested in pulling as much weight out of their car as possible needs to follow Vorshlag.
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