NvrFinished
Well-Known Member
I've heard stories of some sort of brown crud forming under the cap and different areas. Hopefully someone with chime in here as I was originally interested as well.
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Your diff fluid won't look too bad compared to a clutch type LSD, because of the torsen type in your Performance pack. It could be roasted, but only a good analysis would tell. With a clutch type, you get all that clutch and friction plate material clouding it up, looking dirty.Fluids changed, added my personal choice of engine oil additive (X1-R), and took the car out for a quick jaunt. I'm sure I feel a difference. Right? haha...
I swear the rpms seem to spool a bit smoother and the exhaust note seems a tiny bit more pleasing. The placebo effect in effect
The Differential fluid did not look too bad, not new by any stretch however. Rated 4 out of 10 on wear/use scale - same for tranny oil. I saved a sample of each for kicks.
Planning on another full change after 4 more HPDE days. :ford:
I've used it on all of my track cars with no ill effects. I do flush my coolant at least every other season if I've only done a few track days. Once a season or more if I do a lot more time at the track.Ive been a believer in water wetter. Any reason to not drop a bottle in?
Dropped a bottle in!I've used it on all of my track cars with no ill effects. I do flush my coolant at least every other season if I've only done a few track days. Once a season or more if I do a lot more time at the track.
Its from short trips where the engine hasn't had time to warm up properly. Common on all vehicles.I've heard stories of some sort of brown crud forming under the cap and different areas. Hopefully someone with chime in here as I was originally interested as well.
After 9500 miles, mine was terrible. Chunks and metal flakes throughout, and jet black. My buddy said it looked like most 100k fluids he's replaced.Your diff fluid won't look too bad compared to a clutch type LSD, because of the torsen type in your Performance pack.
Water Wetter can never hurt, as you know much more effective in straight water for cooling, but with all the different materials you need something with a corrosion inibitor(coolant) unless it's striclty a track car. Good point on flushing the cooling system if you track it. :cheers:Your diff fluid won't look too bad compared to a clutch type LSD, because of the torsen type in your Performance pack. It could be roasted, but only a good analysis would tell. With a clutch type, you get all that clutch and friction plate material clouding it up, looking dirty.
Third time changing rear diff fluid in a PP. Comes out horrible, still getting metal on drain plugs. We'll see how the BG Ultra-Guard does after a few more track days. Either I really need to get working on our rear axle cooler or the axle isn't long for this world
I've used it on all of my track cars with no ill effects. I do flush my coolant at least every other season if I've only done a few track days. Once a season or more if I do a lot more time at the track.
How about the Motorcraft 5W50?
-T
I know oil topics get beat to death, but...I've thought about it, and if I could get through 90°+ days without heat-stressing I'd probably be using it. But it seems a little thick for overall use when temperatures dip down into the 30°'s F and lower, my home track is still scheduling track days, and I'm driving to and from them plus whatever daily stuff in between.