Finally ARP studs!!

[Optimum Performance]

Do you think it takes more than 150 ft-lb of torque to pull the studs on with a nut? If not, then the studs won't see the same "abuse" as when the wheel is put on. I have no clue how much torque it takes to pull them on?

I've never measured it I use a 20 ton press. We are not saying the other method is bad, Studs are pressed in for a reason.

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[DoingOK]

I've had ARP wheel studs for a while now since I didn't want to have to drill out my Advan wheels to fit the 14mm factory studs. I also shortened mine since I'm not a fan of open lugnuts. I chose McGard spline drive lugnuts. Tested to 160mph on track.....good to go.






Worked like a champ!

 

[Bartly]

I've never measured it I use a 20 ton press. We are not saying the other method is bad, Studs are pressed in for a reason.

I'm good with that. I'd probably want to use my press, just the video makes it so easy.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

FYI I installed arp studs on my 350 the other day and managed to remove the rear hub assembly without pulling the knuckle off.

By removing the axle nut and pushing the axle in slightly you can gain access to the 4 bolts behind the knuckle.

 

[ddozier]

Not a fan of pulling them in. The threads take enough abuse clamping the wheel. Our Method prefers to press them in off the car. This way you do not shorten the life of a consumable item. Axle nuts are cheap to pull it off the car and press them in. Yes the other method works and will not likely cause problems, we just don't recommend it.

I understand your concern and pressing them in may be a slightly better option but the amount of force needed to draw a stud in or even hammer them out is surprisingly less then one would think. I did not measure it with a torque wrench but if it was over 120-140ft lbs I would be surprised. The main reason I use this method is it will likely be your only option for doing a track side repair as a press will not likely be available.

Having the tools in your track tool box, spare studs, and knowing how to do this could save your weekend. I do carry spare hubs setup with long studs but I reserve them for hub failures and replace studs as needed as long as the hub is still good.

Dave

 

[Optimum Performance]

I understand your concern and pressing them in may be a slightly better option but the amount of force needed to draw a stud in or even hammer them out is surprisingly less then one would think. I did not measure it with a torque wrench but if it was over 120-140ft lbs I would be surprised. The main reason I use this method is it will likely be your only option for doing a track side repair as a press will not likely be available.

Having the tools in your track tool box, spare studs, and knowing how to do this could save your weekend. I do carry spare hubs setup with long studs but I reserve them for hub failures and replace studs as needed as long as the hub is still good.

Dave

A WD40 soaked rag keeps the threads happy and will not migrate into everything else.

Track repairs are one thing, changing a couple here and there is fine but Ford even has in the service manual to hank the hub and press them in. The plating ARP uses doesn't last very long so we obviously can not sell a hub with studs that look like they have had a hundred wheels on them LOL. We have accumulated a collection of perfectly good studs I can not sell due to mostly cosmetics, I save them for track repairs.

 

[RedfireV8]

I posted this in another thread but it may not be as easily searchable and just want to help out those who decide to go the DIY install. Granted I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs the process is the same.

Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.

On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).

You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.

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