M3Convert
American Muscle Noob
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2015
- Threads
- 12
- Messages
- 268
- Reaction score
- 93
- Location
- New England
- Vehicle(s)
- Deep Impact Blue GT Premium
- Thread starter
- #1
I just hard-wired my Escort Redline with the Escort. This was the poster child for "it shouldn't take that long, but it did". I had trouble with the mirror tap getting a good, strong physical and electrical connection, so went in this direction.
Parts:
Direct wire:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0003NN83K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Wire tap:
Micro2 Fuse Tap
http://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Micro...8&qid=1433172555&sr=1-12&keywords=micro2+fuse
Top tips - [distilled from other posts and experience this weekend]
1) Posted elsewhere, but Interior fuse panel #36 is controlled by the ignition and turns on and off with the car. The others don't, even if the unit isn't powered. [Props to the guy who found this...I will refind the thread to make sure he gets his recognition: EDIT Rv Junkie: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=521789&postcount=58]. The fuse is the micro2 type fuse. This is all in page #4 of that thread, so I wanted to make it easier to find this key finding!
2) The Direct wire cord has a 2A fuse in-line, so don't worry about no 2A micro2 fuses being easily available
3) The model of Escort Direct Wire I bought (the only one?) did not have enough wire to run from the fuse box to the bottom of the center console to install the dash module. I had to splice in ~2.5 ft of wire to extend far enough to put the module in easy reach of my hand. I thought I was doing something wrong, but there isn't enough cord.
4) There is just enough power cord to run up the A-pillar and under the roof liner for a mirror mounted detector. When you mock it up, it doesn't seem like it, but it does reach just enough
5) Work is easier if you take off the door kick panels as well as the fuse box cover
6) I grounded on a body bolt holding the trim anchor near the door. It is painted, but much easier to reach than the unpainted bolts behind the fuse panel. I rubbed off the paint to afford a better contact.
7) There is a gap behind the infotainment console that the dash module can be pulled through. You'll see this when you get your head under the dashboard. A straightened out coat hanger helped gently pull the module through and the wire can be tucked behind the trim for a clean look.
Parts:
Direct wire:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0003NN83K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Wire tap:
Micro2 Fuse Tap
http://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Micro...8&qid=1433172555&sr=1-12&keywords=micro2+fuse
Top tips - [distilled from other posts and experience this weekend]
1) Posted elsewhere, but Interior fuse panel #36 is controlled by the ignition and turns on and off with the car. The others don't, even if the unit isn't powered. [Props to the guy who found this...I will refind the thread to make sure he gets his recognition: EDIT Rv Junkie: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=521789&postcount=58]. The fuse is the micro2 type fuse. This is all in page #4 of that thread, so I wanted to make it easier to find this key finding!
2) The Direct wire cord has a 2A fuse in-line, so don't worry about no 2A micro2 fuses being easily available
3) The model of Escort Direct Wire I bought (the only one?) did not have enough wire to run from the fuse box to the bottom of the center console to install the dash module. I had to splice in ~2.5 ft of wire to extend far enough to put the module in easy reach of my hand. I thought I was doing something wrong, but there isn't enough cord.
4) There is just enough power cord to run up the A-pillar and under the roof liner for a mirror mounted detector. When you mock it up, it doesn't seem like it, but it does reach just enough
5) Work is easier if you take off the door kick panels as well as the fuse box cover
6) I grounded on a body bolt holding the trim anchor near the door. It is painted, but much easier to reach than the unpainted bolts behind the fuse panel. I rubbed off the paint to afford a better contact.
7) There is a gap behind the infotainment console that the dash module can be pulled through. You'll see this when you get your head under the dashboard. A straightened out coat hanger helped gently pull the module through and the wire can be tucked behind the trim for a clean look.
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