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Escort Escort Direct Wire Smartcord Install - use Fuse #36

M3Convert

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I just hard-wired my Escort Redline with the Escort. This was the poster child for "it shouldn't take that long, but it did". I had trouble with the mirror tap getting a good, strong physical and electrical connection, so went in this direction.

Parts:
Direct wire:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0003NN83K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Wire tap:
Micro2 Fuse Tap
http://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Micro...8&qid=1433172555&sr=1-12&keywords=micro2+fuse

Top tips - [distilled from other posts and experience this weekend]
1) Posted elsewhere, but Interior fuse panel #36 is controlled by the ignition and turns on and off with the car. The others don't, even if the unit isn't powered. [Props to the guy who found this...I will refind the thread to make sure he gets his recognition: EDIT Rv Junkie: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=521789&postcount=58]. The fuse is the micro2 type fuse. This is all in page #4 of that thread, so I wanted to make it easier to find this key finding!
2) The Direct wire cord has a 2A fuse in-line, so don't worry about no 2A micro2 fuses being easily available
3) The model of Escort Direct Wire I bought (the only one?) did not have enough wire to run from the fuse box to the bottom of the center console to install the dash module. I had to splice in ~2.5 ft of wire to extend far enough to put the module in easy reach of my hand. I thought I was doing something wrong, but there isn't enough cord.
4) There is just enough power cord to run up the A-pillar and under the roof liner for a mirror mounted detector. When you mock it up, it doesn't seem like it, but it does reach just enough
5) Work is easier if you take off the door kick panels as well as the fuse box cover
6) I grounded on a body bolt holding the trim anchor near the door. It is painted, but much easier to reach than the unpainted bolts behind the fuse panel. I rubbed off the paint to afford a better contact.
7) There is a gap behind the infotainment console that the dash module can be pulled through. You'll see this when you get your head under the dashboard. A straightened out coat hanger helped gently pull the module through and the wire can be tucked behind the trim for a clean look.
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CrummyArchitect

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Do you happen to have a pick of your install? Did you mount the radar detector on the dash or somewhere else? I just happen to be looking at doing the same thing; I have a Cobra detector and ordered a mirror mount and direct power cable off Amazon yesterday. Was going to try and wire it into the electrical wiring in the dome light for a clean install. Don't know if it's a good idea or not, and would like to see other alternatives.
 

Mustang99

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Did the exact same thing minus the extra wire. Curious to see how yours looks

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M3Convert

M3Convert

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Did the exact same thing minus the extra wire. Curious to see how yours looks

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How did you get the dash module to reach within driver touch from the fuse box around the foot well? I am wondering if I ordered the correct direct line!

I'll get under the dash and take pictures
 

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Mustang99

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Its mounted on the passenger side next to the toggle switchs. Not a very good spot but like I said I didn't want to splice in more wire. I might swap it all out for a mirror tap. I can take a picture of it after work

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mustangtaxman

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I am unclear as to where the fuse panel is on the passenger side, do you have a picture to to show how to get to it ?
 

Mustang99

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You know where the latch is to release the hood on the driver side? Same spot, maybe a little more forward, on the passenger side. You have to remove the plastic panel to access it

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M3Convert

M3Convert

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I am unclear as to where the fuse panel is on the passenger side, do you have a picture to to show how to get to it ?
A light helps...reach back and you'll find a finger hole in the panel near where the plastic meets the carpet. Pull that out and then push the panel up to access the fuses. I'd recommend you pull out the larger panel near the door to get much easier access. They all are clipped in and can be removed by gentle pulling to release the plugs.
 

Ap8823

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How would you run it into the fuse box hidden? I don't see a way of getting it down there? Thanks!
 

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dgc333

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I have my Escort Passport mounted just above the mirror to the passenger side, it peaks out from under the black dots on the winshield but isn't noticeable from outside.

I used the hardwire smart cord to wire it in. I double back taped the smart cord control module to the console just to the front passenger side of the shifter boot trim ring on the console. I routed the wires under the dash via the split between the console and vertical stack trim on the passenger side. I picked up the power from the HVAC blower motor (i always have the fan on and it allows me to power down the detector using the HVAC switch if I need to). The detector lead I routed across the passenger side and out through the gap between the kick panel and dash. I tucked the wire under the door gasket up the A-pillar and under the A-pillar trim to the windshield. The wire is quite long so I wrapped up the excess and tucked it above the headliner with only enough sticking out to reach the power jack on the Passport.

With this mounting it is not easy to access the buttons on the top of the Passport but I don't change configurations often and it is actually easier to use the Escort app and the bluetooth connection to change configurations. With the smart cord control mounted by the shifter on the console I can reach the control button and mute it without removing my hand from the shifter.
 

PamAndJim

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Has anyone had any issues fitting the "add a circuit" in the #36 spot? If I put it one way the fuses hit the edge of the fuse box and won't go in. If I put it the other way the wire hits the side of the fuse box and won't go in. Maybe I'll go old school and just wrap the wire around the post of the fuse.
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