OVRKILL
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi folks. My clutch pedal recently developed a wiggle left to right.
Here's an overview of the issue and some tips that I would have liked to know before fixing this.
The pedal itself is welded to a bar in two places. The pedal's sheet metal sheared at the base of each weld bead due to fatigue.
There are two repair options: Buy the pedal assembly for $153 new, or disassemble and weld it back together. Either one requires removing the entire brake and clutch pedal assembly.
There will be 4 12mm bolts, 4 12mm nuts, 2 5mm Allen head bolts, an 8mm bolt for ground wires, and 3 switches that should be removed prior to pull the assembly.
Remove all wiring harness clips and switches, and move the harness out of the way entirely.
Do not pull on the pedal assembly without unbolting the clutch master cylinder (two 5mm allen head bolts, pointing toward the outside of the vehicle.) You'll rip the brake fluid line off.
There's a wire clip holding the plunger on for the clutch master cylinder with the prongs facing down. Push it out with a small allen key.
Remove the dash trim panels - you can combine 3/8" extensions and get most of the bolts out through the gap between steering column and airbag.
To remove the blue brake yoke pivot bolt, slip a 10mm wrench over the plastic tabs then pry on the other end.
Snug up all major bolts and nuts in small increments or the brake pedal switch will lose alignment with the amber colored pad, then fail to function.
I ground the MIG beads down and ran a full TIG bead with mild steel around the entire circumference. Gussets would have been smart to add, but it was 4AM at this point and I was ready to be done!
- 2015 Base Ecoboost (Job 2)
- 86,000 miles on the car
- removed the clutch assist spring the first week of ownership
- LMR pedal extension.
Here's an overview of the issue and some tips that I would have liked to know before fixing this.
The pedal itself is welded to a bar in two places. The pedal's sheet metal sheared at the base of each weld bead due to fatigue.
There are two repair options: Buy the pedal assembly for $153 new, or disassemble and weld it back together. Either one requires removing the entire brake and clutch pedal assembly.
There will be 4 12mm bolts, 4 12mm nuts, 2 5mm Allen head bolts, an 8mm bolt for ground wires, and 3 switches that should be removed prior to pull the assembly.
Remove all wiring harness clips and switches, and move the harness out of the way entirely.
Do not pull on the pedal assembly without unbolting the clutch master cylinder (two 5mm allen head bolts, pointing toward the outside of the vehicle.) You'll rip the brake fluid line off.
There's a wire clip holding the plunger on for the clutch master cylinder with the prongs facing down. Push it out with a small allen key.
Remove the dash trim panels - you can combine 3/8" extensions and get most of the bolts out through the gap between steering column and airbag.
To remove the blue brake yoke pivot bolt, slip a 10mm wrench over the plastic tabs then pry on the other end.
Snug up all major bolts and nuts in small increments or the brake pedal switch will lose alignment with the amber colored pad, then fail to function.
I ground the MIG beads down and ran a full TIG bead with mild steel around the entire circumference. Gussets would have been smart to add, but it was 4AM at this point and I was ready to be done!
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