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Clutch Burning ??

NHGTPP1

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I have a 2017, GT Premium, PP1 with 15K miles. I drive this pretty easy. Been driving manuals my whole life. I typically get 200K or more out of a clutch. For the second time. While cruising on the highway, not shifting, just cruising along, I have a very strong smell of a clutch burning. This went on for several miles before going away.
When I got off the highway, taking off from the light, the clutch pedal engaged much higher up. Usually it grabs an inch or so off the floor. Now it's at the middle to top of the pedal throw. Has anyone experienced this ??
Thanks.
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Tucker80

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Are you sure the clutch hasn't started to slip from being worn? What you're describing sounds like one that's just not making the right clamping force any longer and is now just burning up on the flywheel.
 
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NHGTPP1

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Hi, Yes, could be. I bought this car used from the original owner, clean carfax. He stepped up to a Shelby GT 500. It had 9K miles on it when I bought it. I've never smoked the clutch and I don't beat on it. Not knowing the previous owners driving habits it could be the clutch is on the way out or possibly the hydraulic clutch actuator not fully disengaging. Slightly off topic what would be a clutch upgrade if I have to replace it ?
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luca1290

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Let's make a quick test.

Clutch not fully disengaging it's easy to test: start on a perfectly planar road; at a standstill fully depress the clutch, wait a few seconds (for the clutch to stop spinning) then slowly engage the reverse.
Because the reverse gear never has synchronizers you should be able to hear it grinding if the clutch is not disengaging.

Clutch worn is easy as well: at a lower speed put the car into a higher gear than normal then go full on the throttle. It the engine tend to revs then the clutch is worn out.
Maybe not that easy on a very powerful car but you get the idea.

It's difficult for anybody to burn a clutch in less than 15.000Km, that's a World Record for the previous owner otherwise.

My bet is there is air in the system or some hydraulics going bad.
 

Tucker80

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Let's make a quick test.

Clutch not fully disengaging it's easy to test: start on a perfectly planar road; at a standstill fully depress the clutch, wait a few seconds (for the clutch to stop spinning) then slowly engage the reverse.
Because the reverse gear never has synchronizers you should be able to hear it grinding if the clutch is not disengaging.

Clutch worn is easy as well: at a lower speed put the car into a higher gear than normal then go full on the throttle. It the engine tend to revs then the clutch is worn out.
Maybe not that easy on a very powerful car but you get the idea.

It's difficult for anybody to burn a clutch in less than 15.000Km, that's a World Record for the previous owner otherwise.

My bet is there is air in the system or some hydraulics going bad.
Based on symptoms it's highly unlikely to be hydraulics. Remember, the hydraulics are only there to assist with disengagement not clamping force. The clutch is the most likely culprit.
 

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luca1290

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Based on symptoms it's highly unlikely to be hydraulics. Remember, the hydraulics are only there to assist with disengagement not clamping force. The clutch is the most likely culprit.
Sure, but test #2 still applies to determine if the clutch is worn.
And doesn't explain why the clutch pedal moved. I'll still make the tests...
 

Tucker80

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Sure, but test #2 still applies to determine if the clutch is worn.
And doesn't explain why the clutch pedal moved. I'll still make the tests...
Completely agree with the tests. The "pedal" movement could be the related the "burning". The hotter it gets the more engagement it needs to secure the flywheel. This makes it feel like the bite point has been moved further up as you release the pedal.
 

luca1290

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The "pedal" movement could be the related the "burning". The hotter it gets the more engagement it needs to secure the flywheel. This makes it feel like the bite point has been moved further up as you release the pedal.
Thank you Aaron for the explain, didn't though about it!
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