Changing your wheels

[firestarter2]

I do not and thought I read it is not a good idea to use this on lugs?

Probably doesnt matter one way or the other.

Its a bigger issue if you are trying to get a wheel off with a tire iron on the side of the high way in the rain. But we dont have a spare anyway

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[Epiphany]

So how many folks use anti-seize on their lugs? How do you adjust the torque when you do?

I do.

The issue is that you have to reduce the torque figure by the recommended value or percentage that is specific to the lubricant manufacturer's specification.

What creates friction between the studded hub and the wheel hub face is the tension on the stud or in this case, preload. Not the friction inside the nut. Imparting torque to a nut on a stud causes the stud to stretch, much like a rubber band. As long as you don't go past the yield point you can stretch and then "unstretch" a typical wheel stud a large number of cycles. As such, the fastener remain elastic. If you exceed the maximum amount of stretch for a given fastener it will become plastic, or permanently deformed - not good and failure is imminent. Using thread lubricant properly and adjusting the torque figure accordingly actually allows for a more accurate torque figure, consistently, to be applied.

I use ARP's "Ultra Torque" Fastener Assembly Lubricant.

http://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php


[ame]


A detailed explanation regarding stretch, click on the "installation" tab.

http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php


The proper lubricant allows a more accurate torque figure (albeit a reduced one from the original spec), prevents seizing and galling, and increases corrosion resistance by quite a bit.

Argue away.

 

[Zitrosounds]

The only reason anti-seize is used is to prevent corrosion from seizing the hardware. My wheels come off to often and I inspect and clean regularly.

 

[firestarter2]

I do.

The issue is that you have to reduce the torque figure by the recommended value or percentage that is specific to the lubricant manufacturer's specification.

What creates friction between the studded hub and the wheel hub face is the tension on the stud or in this case, preload. Not the friction inside the nut. Imparting torque to a nut on a stud causes the stud to stretch, much like a rubber band. As long as you don't go past the yield point you can stretch and then "unstretch" a typical wheel stud a large number of cycles. As such, the fastener remain elastic. If you exceed the maximum amount of stretch for a given fastener it will become plastic, or permanently deformed - not good and failure is imminent. Using thread lubricant properly and adjusting the torque figure accordingly actually allows for a more accurate torque figure, consistently, to be applied.

I use ARP's "Ultra Torque" Fastener Assembly Lubricant.

http://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php





A detailed explanation regarding stretch, click on the "installation" tab.

http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php


The proper lubricant allows a more accurate torque figure (albeit a reduced one from the original spec), prevents seizing and galling, and increases corrosion resistance by quite a bit.

Argue away.

I can see that for torquing down a head but not for wheels

 

[Epiphany]

All fasteners operate on the principle of stretch. Measuring stretch is the most accurate method out there. Much more so than to use a torque wrench. It just happens to be much more convenient to use a torque wrench), hence why most do it that way.

A wheel stud is no different than any other fastener. As such, a well designed lubricant can extend the life of the fastener and ensure that it will be tensioned at the proper preload. This is why some aftermarket stud manufacturers that use different coatings (ie, manganese phosphate, zinc, etc) will also recommend a different torque figure due to a change in the coefficient of friction.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I use a traditional Torque Wrench for my installs here, thinking about going digital however.

 

[nastang87xx]

SPeaking of wheels on and off, any of you guys who constantly change sets of wheels do anything special to your studs? This will be my first year of constant on and off rather than just changing seasonal sets twice a year. If they do get a little dirty/ moderately rusty, is a small shot of WD40 or PB Blaster acceptable for cleaning?

 

[Epiphany]

If I used either I'd wipe off as much as possible. You need to be careful that you don't over torque as both will lubricate/reduce friction. If you then use the same torque figure you may yield the studs.

 

[Zitrosounds]

SPeaking of wheels on and off, any of you guys who constantly change sets of wheels do anything special to your studs? This will be my first year of constant on and off rather than just changing seasonal sets twice a year. If they do get a little dirty/ moderately rusty, is a small shot of WD40 or PB Blaster acceptable for cleaning?

I personally use mil spec products but then use alcohol to remove residue

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