How many threads do you see like that? Definitely none from our customers. Of course fuel quality matters.. that's why a good knock/timing strategy is critical. It's there for a reason and we use it as a failsafe.
My observation about pushing 93 is from being on many forums over the years and personnel experience here in MN. Coyote does indeed have way better knock protection than earlier modular engines. With that said, I just don't believe it will protect a 800 HP
Just noticed this was on a Mustang dyno add an honest 7% = 853 on a Dynojet that's serious power from only 12.6 psi.12.6psi max (logged with nGauge boost sensor), 17 degrees.
Boost leash ramping in boost and making the power a little more manageable.
Dont add 7%, dynojets read unnecessarily high. A mustang dyno or dyno dynamic are far better dynos being they simulate real world load conditions unlike dynojets inertia based.
sometimes the real world is disappointing.
Not all of these are " 4000lb tanks." Mine is 3700. Its also easy to get it to 3300-3400 without gutting it. Im also not saying dynos dont have their place. Still, for tuning a load based dyno is the best choice.I've always relied on MPH at the race track to indicate hp, unfortunately it takes time to work out all the bugs. I used to run the car to the eight mile then when the tune up was right I'd run it out the back, but now days the tracks are more strict about safety equipment and I'm not putting a cage in this car so I will just have to settle for dyno numbers. I don't see the point in trying to go 8's or even 7's in a 4000 lb tank, I'd rather get a fox body at 2600 lb race weight and go run fast at the track. This is just a car that looks good and has some power to back it up on the streets, that is if it hooks up.
