Boost Operated Blow Off Valve - Boomba Racing

[jbailer]

Yea I read up about all that before I got my adapter (not full on valve) luckily. I wasn't wondering about A/F as much as I was just pointing out a specific situation Ive noticed. Let me explain better:

I'll be cruising down the highway at let's say 75mph in 6th gear with cruise control running (for this example it's always running unless noted) and it's all basically flat here. After a relatively brief period of time, let's say at most 2 minutes, I will hear my factory valve (which is computer operated) begin venting and stay venting until there is a significant change in load (ex car has to speed up to go up a hill or start engine braking due to going down a hill, or I manually have applied significant throttle etc). I have heard this behavior continue for at least the length of a song.

Now my questions were if anyone knows definitively why this is happening and if a mechanical (pressure operated) BOV would/does exibit the same behavior?

Now I was speculating that a mechanical BOV would not exibit the same behavior since it's based on the pressures which are partially controlled by the throttle. This speculation is based on speculation that the prolonged factory blow off is a fuel saving engineering measure, which I based on a guess that the ECU vents the blow off valve (in my explained scenario) so less air is going to the engine so that it has to use less fuel and still meets ideal AFR. I have other educated guesses to back up my speculations and will gladly try to explain further if you want.

Apologies for my prolonged rambling, I am very bad at explaining my thoughts to others and it's a life skill I am constantly working on. Also I tried to write this explanation is a way that anyone who comes along would understand. :cheers:

I was answering Ebm's question which is different. I actually have the same question you do. Since I now have an open intake, I hear it even more and it's annoying. I don't know why they just bleed boost steady like that for so long.

I was thinking the opposite, I thought if they DIDN'T bleed the boost off steady like that they could use that air and I could give it even less pedal. It would be interesting to understand though.

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[yomamma219]

Oh haha my bad guess I was being self centered thinking you were talking to me :| so since I'm not crazy and you know the situation I'm talking about I'll explain my couple of theories for why it happens:

I think it's a function for fuel economy. It's a drive by wire system right? Well I'm thinking it's particularly due to the control scheme. Like I would think the throttle control your most basic throttle functions as it has for decades but then engineers want to implement more advanced engine control to improve economy. Classically more throttle translates to more RPM (to the layman) so if they reduced throttle (for MPGs) it would reduce RPM which would be noticeable to even the layman. Instead they just leak the air out so you effectively have a car using less gas at the same RPM. Basically I'm trying to say that if it were a control scheme issue I think it would be due to the throttle controls being very rigidly implimented causing the control engineers to have to play with other variables.

My other theory is that they do it to keep the turbo spinning up since it's presumably faster to plug the leaking hole then have to spin the turbo up again.

I am a bit confused where you say they could use the air and you could give it less pedal? That sounds like you are saying you would like to run leaner (more air + less pedal/gas = lean)? I would think it would be better for the car to run at a more ideal AFR for a prolonged time then to be running lean.

I wonder if we ponder it back and fourth enough, if someone that knows the answer will chime in? ;)

 

[jbailer]

The one piece of the equation you left out is load. I adjust the pedal for the desired load to obtain a desired outcome. If it's maintain speed on relatively flat ground, it's obviously very light load and little pedal expected. Let's say you're going up a slight incline, instead of bleeding that air off provided by the turbo, use it and combine the proper fuel amount the way drive by wire does and I could decrease the pedal.

Thinking about what you're saying though, you might have it. Keep the turbo spinning for available torque, bleed off the excess. If the driver wants to increase, shut the BPV/BOV and use the air.

I just know I hate the hissing. I don't mind and even like the release from a BOV but now that I have an open air intake and I hear that annoying hissing, it's a bother and I've considered getting a mechanical BPV/BOV to get rid of the noise but then I consider Ford did it for a reason and I'm not sure I want to throw that away because I don't like the sound. I do know as long as I keep the ECU control in place I definitely don't want to vent to atmosphere though as that will only amplify it.

 

[Ebm]

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It makes no difference at all for US ecoboosts or any other region that uses the MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor which is located right after the air filter. I believe the European Mustang uses a MAF. It matters if the ECU uses a MAF because the air has been metered already for air/fuel mixture at that point. If some of the air is then vented to atmosphere, the ECU would be providing too much fuel and would run rich. WIth the MAP, the air is metered after the FMIC so there's no issue if some is vented at the BOV/BPV.

I just noticed Boomba explained this above already, was there something else you were trying to understand?

Just didn't know if debris or contaminates could get through if the valve was left open for an extended period of time?

 

[jbailer]

Just didn't know if debris or contaminates could get through if the valve was left open for an extended period of time?

The valve is only open when it's blowing air out so I wouldn't worry about that.

 

[Ebm]

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The valve is only open when it's blowing air out so I wouldn't worry about that.

Very last question. Would you get an aftermarket Bov while still in the warranty period?

 

[jbailer]

Very last question. Would you get an aftermarket Bov while still in the warranty period?

No. That is one of the very first things the Ford mechanic would look for if they're using Ford's job aid. Of course every dealer is different, some would just let it go while some others will be very strict. If it's an ECU controlled BOV, your chances of support would be better but could still be a deal breaker. To me, for the very small advantage, I'd stick with the stock Ford BPV until after 3/36.

*EDIT: If it's something you really want, talk to your dealer's service manager (not a service adviser). If you tell them what you want, why you want it and it's within reason, they may agree to it ahead of time. Either way, you'll know where they stand.

 

[Ebm]

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No. That is one of the very first things the Ford mechanic would look for if they're using Ford's job aid. Of course every dealer is different, some would just let it go while some others will be very strict. If it's an ECU controlled BOV, your chances of support would be better but could still be a deal breaker. To me, for the very small advantage, I'd stick with the stock Ford BPV until after 3/36.

*EDIT: If it's something you really want, talk to your dealer's service manager (not a service adviser). If you tell them what you want, why you want it and it's within reason, they may agree to it ahead of time. Either way, you'll know where they stand.

The hard part about waiting is I opted for the extended warranty mainly for all the electronics on the car. I have a few more years before that is up.

 

[jbailer]

The hard part about waiting is I opted for the extended warranty mainly for all the electronics on the car. I have a few more years before that is up.

Not if you got the Ford Performance tune, the warranty for the engine/drivetrain is up at 3/36. Again, not going to say it isn't possible because some dealers may be willing to work with you but they don't have to. Once you do the FP tune, you have 3/36 from the day the car was purchased. Of course you still have the extended warranty for all other things like electronics, AC, stuff like that. I'm in the same position.

 

[Ebm]

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Not if you got the Ford Performance tune, the warranty for the engine/drivetrain is up at 3/36. Again, not going to say it isn't possible because some dealers may be willing to work with you but they don't have to. Once you do the FP tune, you have 3/36 from the day the car was purchased. Of course you still have the extended warranty for all other things like electronics, AC, stuff like that. I'm in the same position.

I don't have a tune at all. I'm undecided on whether or not to get a tune.

 

[yomamma219]

The hard part about waiting is I opted for the extended warranty mainly for all the electronics on the car. I have a few more years before that is up.

Is the BOV something you want for only the aesthetics? (ie that woosh/pshhhh sound? If so, and you don't want to risk warranty issues, like me, then just get a bypass valve adapter, Boomba makes one or there is a C&L brand one on American Muscle, and cheaper ones on Ebay if I recall. They are basically all the same. they are just a block of metal with a hole in it that you put between the pipe and the bypass valve. I bought mine from AM because I figured I'd install it, check to see if I liked the sound then figured if I didn't I could take it back off and return it.

It was super easy to install, just 3, 5mm Allen head bolts to take off and the valve pops right off (don't forget to unplug the electronics clip on the valve like I almost did). Then you just pop the valve onto the adapter and line up all holes (only possible 1 way). Then put the two pieces back on the pipe and screw in the 3 new longer bolts. The hardest part is that the space was a bit tight, at least for me. I ended up unclipping the lid of the filter box so I could move the air intake out of the way a bit more. All you need to do the install is a single allen wrench. All in all took me a bit less than an hour after work one day but only so long because I include the time it took me to find my tool and analyze the situation after opening my hood plus I dropped my Allen wrench twice and one of the factory bolts (which I never found).

 

[yomamma219]

Not if you got the Ford Performance tune, the warranty for the engine/drivetrain is up at 3/36. Again, not going to say it isn't possible because some dealers may be willing to work with you but they don't have to. Once you do the FP tune, you have 3/36 from the day the car was purchased. Of course you still have the extended warranty for all other things like electronics, AC, stuff like that. I'm in the same position.

I have some confusion that I hope you can clear up. I've been considering the FP Tune for my birthday in a couple months. I just got my car in January and it was a CPO, 2016, so it came with the factory 3/36k B2B plus 6/100k powertrain warranty. Its in service date was March 2016. Does this mean that if I were to put the FP Tune on it now I would only have 2 years left and up to 36k Odo reading on my power train?

 

[jbailer]

I have some confusion that I hope you can clear up. I've been considering the FP Tune for my birthday in a couple months. I just got my car in January and it was a CPO, 2016, so it came with the factory 3/36k B2B plus 6/100k powertrain warranty. Its in service date was March 2016. Does this mean that if I were to put the FP Tune on it now I would only have 2 years left and up to 36k Odo reading on my power train?

That is exactly correct.

 

[jbailer]

We're drifting a bit from the intended topic of the thread. The good news is Boomba has a great selection of BOV/BPVs available depending on which way you want to go. I think most of us are already aware of the poor quality of the stock BPV and it being prone to leaking boost. Again, if warranty is a concern, I'd have the discussion with the service manager at the dealer you would use and see if you can come to an agreement. If the dealer is conservative, you might want to get the information ahead of time, it will help with the discussion. Consider these 2:

2015 + Ford Mustang Ecoboost Boost Operated Bypass Valve (Full Recirculation)
This is still controlled by the ECU and the vent is recirculated. This is most like stock but has a much higher quality construction with a brass piston. Then there's the:

2015 + Ford Mustang Ecoboost Boost Operated Blow Off Valve
Which is the same thing but vents to atmosphere if you want the sound. Some dealers (in the US) don't even understand that our car uses a MAP rather than a MAF so venting to atmosphere doesn't impact engine operation at all. If they start down that road, you should be prepared to share that.

 

[yomamma219]

Damn that kind of sucks. That was what I was afraid of since initially I thought the tune didn't void the power train warranty which was the whole reason it appealed to me. Now it doesn't seem as much worth it since a main reason for not modding further (for me) would be to maintain warranty.

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