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BMR SUSPENSION'S S550 Lowering Springs: STANCE PICS!

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TheLion

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I'm learning as I go, but roll center is more or less a lever arm. The lower the roll center (closer to the ground), the greater the lever arm, so it works against the spring rates. Can compensate to some degree with stiffer springs, but it also affects steering geometry and how toe angles change as the suspension compresses.

Roll centers are pretty carefully setup in high performance variants like the GT350R. But may be adjusted for a higher ride height on the common run of the mill variants like the PP GT's. I'm looking to achieve handling that is fairly close to the GT350R as I can get for under $2k and I'm in the process of deciding what's really beneficial and what is not.

Here's the thing, the Steeda Roll Center and Bump Steer kit can benefit the car with the current springs and struts. The SP080's have slightly decreased corner entry steering and increased throttle steering over stock. So the car under steers a little more right now going into a corner which I DON'T like and steers even more with throttle mid corner and on exit which I also DON'T like as it's too much throttle steering for my comfort.

The car also tramlines quite a bit with my RTR Tech 7 wheels due to the combination of bump steer and increased scrub radius. With the stock PP wheels currently on the car it's not bad, tram-lining is still fairly mild as the scrub has not been increased. Both toe angle and scrub affect steering inputs. But I'd rather deal with increased leverage from scrub than bump steer doe to toe angle changes.

So the steeda extended ball stud lateral links will re-balance the under steer / throttle steer issue and the steeda bump steer toe rod end links will help reduce the tram-lining with the RTR +33 mm offset wheels and make it nearly non-existent with the stock PP wheels. No, I have not yet had and alignment, so that will affect the handling, but I don't think an alignment is going to be enough to fully re-balance the car. I do like the lower CG, I love the looks, but I don't like the increased tram-lining, reduced entry steering and slightly excessive throttle steering. I'm sure the huge mid-range torque increase of 45 ft-lbs at 4k and 5k rpms isn't helping the throttle steering either with my Power Pack 2. I'm due for an alignment soon, but trying to hold off til I'm ready for new tires late fall so it can all be done at once.

I'm leaning towards a -1.75 front camber with BMR's 7.21 caster angle, 0 front toe, 0.20 total rear toe and -1.5 rear camber. A slightly more aggressive variation of @BMR Tech recommended alignment settings for SP080's.
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TheLion

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Just an FYI: SP083 = SP084 (front) + SP085 (rear). There have been Rev A-C of SP084, and A and B of SP085. They are marked on the springs. It's a little more complicated as the GT350R rears are also dual rate, not linear, but your assertion about the increased rate with the added drop is directionally correct.
Then perhaps it's not valuable to increase the rear ride height in the trade off for CG. I'd imagine dual rates would be a little harder to drive on a track than linear due to the softer initial edge. I think I'll take the linear over the dual rates unless there's a compelling reason to run dual rates in the back other than ride comfort. I know some springs are dual rate more for spring tension reasons to keep the spring fully seated at maximum height, so the softer coils essentially just go into coil bind during normal use.
 

TheLion

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Sort of.

Geometric LLT (through the geo roll centers) reaches its peak very early in the transient phase. Elastic LLT through the bars (and springs, for that matter) gradually increases to its max at maximum roll, which takes longer. Mid-corner balance could be the same, but the 'feel' while getting there would be different.

Norm
Which would be a reason to achieve a corrected roll center would it not? I see some advantages to a corrected roll center on lowered cars other than the leverage effect (thus increasing body roll) which to some degree can be compensated for by stiffer springs or more bar. Would a corrected roll center not provide a more direct and linear feel vs. a more "bouncy" feel? I can say that I loved the handling on my Mazda MX-5 M-edition. While the Mustang is much heavier car and it's never going to transition as fast due to the weight, I don't see why I cannot achieve a similar connected and responsive feel to it.
 

Norm Peterson

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I wouldn't associate roll center correction with the term 'bouncy'. It's more about reducing how much the understeer increases as roll develops. The situation with lowering a car that's strut-suspended up front with just about anything other than a Chapman strut out back is that the strut's geo roll center drops a good bit faster per inch of lowering than the rear RC does. Technically this would be an oversteerish effect, but I doubt many people can identify it by "calibrated butt-meter". Correcting a strut's front RC via tall ball joints brings the geometric LLT terms back to/toward their OE balance, reduces roll, and puts the outside front back in a more favorable ("less unfavorable" might actually be more accurate) region on the camber gain curve.


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diegoaccord

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BMR's have an attractive price, but I'm not sure I would be happy with the rear .5 of drop, once all is settled. Some look lower, others look almost stock. I also have 19 Forgestars to install. Tough, because if I get anything else, it will be the H&R SS, which are lowest springs you can get.
 

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BmacIL

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BMR's have an attractive price, but I'm not sure I would be happy with the rear .5 of drop, once all is settled. Some look lower, others look almost stock. I also have 19 Forgestars to install. Tough, because if I get anything else, it will be the H&R SS, which are lowest springs you can get.
Tire size makes an enormous difference in looks. The spring heights are set for performance and not mucking up the rear suspension geometry.
 

BradN01

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BMR's have an attractive price, but I'm not sure I would be happy with the rear .5 of drop, once all is settled. Some look lower, others look almost stock. I also have 19 Forgestars to install. Tough, because if I get anything else, it will be the H&R SS, which are lowest springs you can get.
Don’t doubt it. The ride quality is where it’s at.
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D61640A9-0E17-4F24-9AF6-BD3232AD1478.jpeg
 

CLJ73

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Some before and after with my SP763 kit and Project 6GR 20x10 and 20x11 on 275/35 and 305/35. I haven't done the forced induction yet but I did this in preparation for the future. Also did cradle lockout, vertical links, rear double adjustable toe rods and Ford track shocks and struts.
20180926_173333.jpg
IMG_20180928_153622_851.jpg
20180928_084307.jpg
 

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BmacIL

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Some before and after with my SP763 kit and Project 6GR 20x10 and 20x11 on 275/35 and 305/35. I haven't done the forced induction yet but I did this in preparation for the future. Also did cradle lockout, vertical links, rear double adjustable toe rods and Ford track shocks and struts.
20180926_173333.jpg
IMG_20180928_153622_851.jpg
20180928_084307.jpg
Looks amazing. How do you like it?
 

CLJ73

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Looks amazing. How do you like it?
I love it even though I only got to drive it for a day. It feels more planted and the steering feels more responsive. She hugs the road now and I'm enjoying it.
 

NelsonGT

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good morning, I'm going to install my springs this weekend,

any recommendation on alignment specs for street use and occasional drag strip?

thanks.
 

NelsonGT

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good morning, I'm going to install my springs this weekend,

any recommendation on alignment specs for street use and occasional drag strip?

thanks.
found it , thanks.
 
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