Skye
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This thread will highlight bird and varmint mitigation strategies. If you're attempting to deal with the issue, as part of the process, review your local ordinances. Also, study the subjects of native, invasive and keystone species.
Another Member recently posted their experience encountering Egrets and a large mass of droppings which had fallen on his car. Fortunately, the vehicle was enclosed in an outside cover and they took quick action to clean up what had been leaching through the material.
With the Spring thaw starting and birds commencing their migrations, I thought I'd start a thread of what I've found successful as bird deterrents. I'm also including varmint mitigation ideas for rabbits and squirrels.
If you have experience in what works (or doesn't), please post here when you have a chance.
Some times of the year, migrating birds will often roost in large bushes close to the house. Looking to use another location as an outhouse, they often take a quick flight to my courtyard area, do their business and then leave.
The last few seasons, I've come across some tips which have worked for me in keeping birds out of specific areas.
Birds in-general do not like reflective or shiny things. In a sense, it gives them a headache. One attached photo highlights the use of Christmas ornaments. The disco ball-like orbs are particularly effective, especially when hung in a location where they catch the Sun and twinkle brilliantly. Using dental floss, I tie a few to the exterior of the house. Something as simple as a shiny pie pan, tied up so as to twirl around can work.
Birds can interpret different colors in different ways. Red and Silver hues are often seen as "fire", that something is alight. In bushes they roost in, I will tie a few ornaments inside the bush itself.
If a common bird sees or perceives a owl or falcon nearby, they'll leave. The yellow-faced deterrent helps, especially when tied so it can move around. It's more effective still if moved to different locations over time.
I have not tried the lifelike owl ornament; that's new for this year. Some neighbors have used full-sized owl models. It's best to move these items around over time.
Birds like some place they feel secure or comfortable. If they are being harassed or disrupted in some way, they'll leave. While checking on the property, I will brush up against or jostle the branches of different bushes. Over time, birds will go elsewhere.
Noises. Birds don't like abrupt noises or movements. I haven't tried it myself, but I have read stories of people using loud noises consistently to shoo off large flocks. Air horns come to mind, but using such things probably warrant a note to the neighbors, so they understand.
For more challenging situations or locations, Nixalite is a company that makes formal bird deterrents. I've purchased and used several sections of spikes when birds are at their worst. They can be temporarily secured with the rubberized ties. When the birds have left for the season, I recover everything and stow for next year.
You can purchase nets and install to prevent birds from roosting or favoring a spot. Nets might be good for areas involving solar panels, fruit-bearing trees and bushes.
These issues are more obvious at season start, when birds are scouting for locations and building nests. If you notice fresh builds on the house or close by, you might need to do something about that. My rule is if the nest is free of eggs and hatchlings, I take it. Otherwise, it stays for the season.
Birds have been one problem. Rabbits, and now squirrels, another. Years ago, the rabbit population in my neighborhood was getting out of hand. I started a catch-and-release program as a method of population control.
I'm surprised living in the suburbs, how many people do not regularly traverse and review their property. I don't mess with other peoples' parcels, but some harbor squirrel nests and rabbit warrens.
If you haven't been reviewing your property consistently, it's a good idea to do so. If not for varmints, drainage and foliage. Eat, breed and nest: that's a general routine of almost any animal. If you notice squirrel nests or rabbits warrens on your property, you'll need to monitor those and consider doing something about them. Those populations will grow and migrate out over time.
Have-a-heart is one company that sells traps. I started with one; it proved so successful I now use two consistently.
Rabbits breed from March to about October. Typically, one alpha male will keep a harem. A female will drop at least one kit, or kitten (baby) every 30 days. She'll come into heat again almost immediately and become pregnant while still nursing the first. Thirty days later, she kits again. And the process continues.
You can imagine multiple females birthing every month for several months straight. In the wild, it might not be an issue. In the burbs with virtually zero predators, it is.
Squirrels breed quickly as well. I've also found them more aggressive in their behaviors. Squirrels will push out rabbits for territory. And when they aren't satisfied with trees, they'll begin attempting to get into peoples' homes via the roof. I've witnessed one recently trying to gain access to a neighbor's home, either as a storage site, nest or both.
The bases of trees and shaded areas are some of best places to put the traps. Rabbits will seek secluded areas to rest. Squirrels routinely scout trees for new homes. If trapping for the first time, you may need to move things around to find a good spot. It might take time for the rabbitt to accept the new item as part of the landscape, or try to figure out how to get the bait. Squirrels often dive straight in.
I bait my traps with apples. Cut an apple in half and poke a small hole through it. Feed a section of 18 gauge wire through the apple and the trap. Suspending the apple does a few things. The scent travels better. Ants, stay off it. And the rabbit or squirrel often bounce on an off the strike plate while they're tugging on the apple.
In the photos, notice the small twig on the handle; it releases some pressure from the strike plate, making something of a hair trigger. This helps with small rabbits and squirrels.
Once caught, I haul them to an undeveloped area and drop them. I've got a few drop sites past major roadways that have served me well. Having a truck makes it easy. If you have a car, put down a T-shirt or two, then the trap. The animal will not make a large mess, if any, while in transport.
If handling any varmints at all, do not attempt to touch them. Rabbits will become animated while you're moving the trap, but immediately settle down once back on the ground. Squirrels can be aggressive and are always looking for a way out. The top of the traps are made for this. As long as you pick the trap up by the handle, you'll be fine.
At release, squirrels will haul to the closest tree. Rabbits: sometimes they take off like a rocket. Others they scoot out about three feet and start eating. It depends. I've never had one come after me. But I have witnessed squirrels seeking people for food.
Rabbits, squirrels and birds can carry diseases specific to their breeds. If you encounter a varmint that appears sick, leave it and call Animal Control to discuss. Reports of disease being passed often come down to being scratched, bitten or directly handling a dead animal. I've yet to have any issues, but CO does have incidents a few times a year. Many more so with domesticated pets.
When I'm running traps, I'll check twice a day, once in the morning and then in the evening. Apples will stay fresh for a few days before needing replaced. It's best to remove the bait, cut a fresh edge and put it back in. I go through two or three apples a week, with both traps.
If the weather is bad or I'm not up for it, I'll just close the trap.
Rabbits and squirrels breed to quickly. Catch and release does take time and effort, but it can keep existing populations in check and prevent a small issue from becoming a much larger problem.
Regarding mice and rats, I'm fortunate I've yet to encounter them. Early on, mice were in the area when the neighborhood was still new, but I've yet to notice any sign of them in years. A co-worker's Audi was traumatized by one. It ate into a large wiring bundle well before being caught. Like most folks, the garage was being used as a storage area for any number of things. A mouse was using food storage for nourishment and the Audi for a home.
Some positive strategies I've read to deter rats and mice:
- Remove all possible food sources, anything which could be used for bedding and nesting
- Use of heavily-scented items. Mints, dryer sheets, moth balls
- Regular reviews of the area, to include storage boxes, things that are not moved often
- The use of traps. Even if only suspecting, set out the occasional test trap
Another Member recently posted their experience encountering Egrets and a large mass of droppings which had fallen on his car. Fortunately, the vehicle was enclosed in an outside cover and they took quick action to clean up what had been leaching through the material.
With the Spring thaw starting and birds commencing their migrations, I thought I'd start a thread of what I've found successful as bird deterrents. I'm also including varmint mitigation ideas for rabbits and squirrels.
If you have experience in what works (or doesn't), please post here when you have a chance.
Some times of the year, migrating birds will often roost in large bushes close to the house. Looking to use another location as an outhouse, they often take a quick flight to my courtyard area, do their business and then leave.
The last few seasons, I've come across some tips which have worked for me in keeping birds out of specific areas.
Birds in-general do not like reflective or shiny things. In a sense, it gives them a headache. One attached photo highlights the use of Christmas ornaments. The disco ball-like orbs are particularly effective, especially when hung in a location where they catch the Sun and twinkle brilliantly. Using dental floss, I tie a few to the exterior of the house. Something as simple as a shiny pie pan, tied up so as to twirl around can work.
Birds can interpret different colors in different ways. Red and Silver hues are often seen as "fire", that something is alight. In bushes they roost in, I will tie a few ornaments inside the bush itself.
If a common bird sees or perceives a owl or falcon nearby, they'll leave. The yellow-faced deterrent helps, especially when tied so it can move around. It's more effective still if moved to different locations over time.
I have not tried the lifelike owl ornament; that's new for this year. Some neighbors have used full-sized owl models. It's best to move these items around over time.
Birds like some place they feel secure or comfortable. If they are being harassed or disrupted in some way, they'll leave. While checking on the property, I will brush up against or jostle the branches of different bushes. Over time, birds will go elsewhere.
Noises. Birds don't like abrupt noises or movements. I haven't tried it myself, but I have read stories of people using loud noises consistently to shoo off large flocks. Air horns come to mind, but using such things probably warrant a note to the neighbors, so they understand.
For more challenging situations or locations, Nixalite is a company that makes formal bird deterrents. I've purchased and used several sections of spikes when birds are at their worst. They can be temporarily secured with the rubberized ties. When the birds have left for the season, I recover everything and stow for next year.
You can purchase nets and install to prevent birds from roosting or favoring a spot. Nets might be good for areas involving solar panels, fruit-bearing trees and bushes.
These issues are more obvious at season start, when birds are scouting for locations and building nests. If you notice fresh builds on the house or close by, you might need to do something about that. My rule is if the nest is free of eggs and hatchlings, I take it. Otherwise, it stays for the season.
Birds have been one problem. Rabbits, and now squirrels, another. Years ago, the rabbit population in my neighborhood was getting out of hand. I started a catch-and-release program as a method of population control.
I'm surprised living in the suburbs, how many people do not regularly traverse and review their property. I don't mess with other peoples' parcels, but some harbor squirrel nests and rabbit warrens.
If you haven't been reviewing your property consistently, it's a good idea to do so. If not for varmints, drainage and foliage. Eat, breed and nest: that's a general routine of almost any animal. If you notice squirrel nests or rabbits warrens on your property, you'll need to monitor those and consider doing something about them. Those populations will grow and migrate out over time.
Have-a-heart is one company that sells traps. I started with one; it proved so successful I now use two consistently.
Rabbits breed from March to about October. Typically, one alpha male will keep a harem. A female will drop at least one kit, or kitten (baby) every 30 days. She'll come into heat again almost immediately and become pregnant while still nursing the first. Thirty days later, she kits again. And the process continues.
You can imagine multiple females birthing every month for several months straight. In the wild, it might not be an issue. In the burbs with virtually zero predators, it is.
Squirrels breed quickly as well. I've also found them more aggressive in their behaviors. Squirrels will push out rabbits for territory. And when they aren't satisfied with trees, they'll begin attempting to get into peoples' homes via the roof. I've witnessed one recently trying to gain access to a neighbor's home, either as a storage site, nest or both.
The bases of trees and shaded areas are some of best places to put the traps. Rabbits will seek secluded areas to rest. Squirrels routinely scout trees for new homes. If trapping for the first time, you may need to move things around to find a good spot. It might take time for the rabbitt to accept the new item as part of the landscape, or try to figure out how to get the bait. Squirrels often dive straight in.
I bait my traps with apples. Cut an apple in half and poke a small hole through it. Feed a section of 18 gauge wire through the apple and the trap. Suspending the apple does a few things. The scent travels better. Ants, stay off it. And the rabbit or squirrel often bounce on an off the strike plate while they're tugging on the apple.
In the photos, notice the small twig on the handle; it releases some pressure from the strike plate, making something of a hair trigger. This helps with small rabbits and squirrels.
Once caught, I haul them to an undeveloped area and drop them. I've got a few drop sites past major roadways that have served me well. Having a truck makes it easy. If you have a car, put down a T-shirt or two, then the trap. The animal will not make a large mess, if any, while in transport.
If handling any varmints at all, do not attempt to touch them. Rabbits will become animated while you're moving the trap, but immediately settle down once back on the ground. Squirrels can be aggressive and are always looking for a way out. The top of the traps are made for this. As long as you pick the trap up by the handle, you'll be fine.
At release, squirrels will haul to the closest tree. Rabbits: sometimes they take off like a rocket. Others they scoot out about three feet and start eating. It depends. I've never had one come after me. But I have witnessed squirrels seeking people for food.
Rabbits, squirrels and birds can carry diseases specific to their breeds. If you encounter a varmint that appears sick, leave it and call Animal Control to discuss. Reports of disease being passed often come down to being scratched, bitten or directly handling a dead animal. I've yet to have any issues, but CO does have incidents a few times a year. Many more so with domesticated pets.
When I'm running traps, I'll check twice a day, once in the morning and then in the evening. Apples will stay fresh for a few days before needing replaced. It's best to remove the bait, cut a fresh edge and put it back in. I go through two or three apples a week, with both traps.
If the weather is bad or I'm not up for it, I'll just close the trap.
Rabbits and squirrels breed to quickly. Catch and release does take time and effort, but it can keep existing populations in check and prevent a small issue from becoming a much larger problem.
Regarding mice and rats, I'm fortunate I've yet to encounter them. Early on, mice were in the area when the neighborhood was still new, but I've yet to notice any sign of them in years. A co-worker's Audi was traumatized by one. It ate into a large wiring bundle well before being caught. Like most folks, the garage was being used as a storage area for any number of things. A mouse was using food storage for nourishment and the Audi for a home.
Some positive strategies I've read to deter rats and mice:
- Remove all possible food sources, anything which could be used for bedding and nesting
- Use of heavily-scented items. Mints, dryer sheets, moth balls
- Regular reviews of the area, to include storage boxes, things that are not moved often
- The use of traps. Even if only suspecting, set out the occasional test trap
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