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Autometer Digital Vacuum/Boost Gauge Not Accurate

Jpump

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I have an Autometer Cobalt Digital Vacuum/Boost Gauge installed in my car and it's not accurate. I'm pretty sure the issue is the auto zero feature in the gauge isn't working because the gauge is losing power during cranking. It's currently wired to an add a fuse I used for my hardwired dash camera that I removed. I want to say it's Fuse 23(Switches. Power windows. Rear-view mirror) in the passenger footwell, but I don't currently have my car here to verify.

I had the gauge installed for me, and he did tell me that there aren't many wires known to stay active during cranking and he's had this problem with in one of his cars and it was never accurate. Anyone have any ideas? If not, I'll just have to switch to a manual gauge at some point. Below is from the instructions:

"Connect the red power wire to a switched +12 volt source that maintains power during engine cranking. Most vehicles break the electrical connection to accessories while the engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result. To determine whether a switched source maintains power during starting, look for electrical accessories in the vehicle that remain on while the engine is being started. Connect the red power wire to the same circuit that powers one of these accessories."

"Electric Boost/Vac gauges are equipped with an auto zero function used to compensate for operation at varying altitudes. This function takes a pressure reading during the time that the key switch “flies through” from the ON position to the START position. The reading represents 0 pressure and is used to set the zero point on the gauge each time the engine is started."
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Jaymar

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In a car with CAN bus it gets hard to find any keyed accessory, I didn't know the switched ones still dropped on crank. Try experimenting with different capacitors across the power terminals of the gauge and a diode to keep from feeding it back to the car. That should stiffen the power if it's just sagging on crank but go big enough and it'll overcome the short drop on start too. The only drawback is the gauge may hang on for a while on shutdown.
 
 








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