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Advice on my plans

jofivepointoh

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I have a GTPP base, I want to keep my stock HU till I find a indash worth doing. So until I find it, I have Front components and rear speaker after market replacements that I have a 4 channel amp to hook up to. Now I want to add a sub, with a mono amp. What do I need to make all this work together with my factory HU? Suggestions? Links to anything I need to make this work please! Thanks:ford:
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OEMRadio

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I suggest you send your ACM to me so I can turn all the processing off and convert the factory outputs from level to low level.. that way you have a great starting point.. it all starts with the signal
 
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jofivepointoh

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I suggest you send your ACM to me so I can turn all the processing off and convert the factory outputs from level to low level.. that way you have a great starting point.. it all starts with the signal

ACM, audio control module? Send it to you? Are you with a company? How can I trust you? :ninja:
 

OEMRadio

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I don't know.. you can look around and see.. but yes the Audio control module.. its the CD player portion behind the bezel
 

wildcatgoal

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I suggest you send your ACM to me so I can turn all the processing off and convert the factory outputs from level to low level.. that way you have a great starting point.. it all starts with the signal
Aaaaand let's be best friends. Doing a Hertz Mille Legend install eventually with Audison Bit.1 processor and Arc amps and a flat signal would be nice.

To answer the OP's question, you need to pull signal FROM THE FRONT speakers at least. Many people pull from the rear. In most cars these days, you risk losing turn signal sounds, chimes, GPS voice, etc., when you do that. I always pull front and back signal because many backup sensors beep in back speakers vs. front and you want to keep that. Whether that happens in this car, I don't know, but nothing wrong with keeping front and back front and back. That said, since your factory signal is going to be all wonky (tuned for the stock speakers), I'd get a processor to flatten that signal before sending it to amplifiers. These are expensive and extra to wire in, but time and time again I end up adding one into systems that us factory signal because the aftermarket speakers sound like garbage with the factory bass-boosted, treble boosted, midrange anemic signals lots of cars have. But you can get away without one and you may like it just fine, adjusting your tone with the 3-adjustments in the factory radio.
 

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OEMRadio

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Aaaaand let's be best friends. Doing a Hertz Mille Legend install eventually with Audison Bit.1 processor and Arc amps and a flat signal would be nice.

To answer the OP's question, you need to pull signal FROM THE FRONT speakers at least. Many people pull from the rear. In most cars these days, you risk losing turn signal sounds, chimes, GPS voice, etc., when you do that. I always pull front and back signal because many backup sensors beep in back speakers vs. front and you want to keep that. Whether that happens in this car, I don't know, but nothing wrong with keeping front and back front and back. That said, since your factory signal is going to be all wonky (tuned for the stock speakers), I'd get a processor to flatten that signal before sending it to amplifiers. These are expensive and extra to wire in, but time and time again I end up adding one into systems that us factory signal because the aftermarket speakers sound like garbage with the factory bass-boosted, treble boosted, midrange anemic signals lots of cars have. But you can get away without one and you may like it just fine, adjusting your tone with the 3-adjustments in the factory radio.
Ok.. lets do that.. ha ha.. Yeah.. I can disable all the factory processing.. nt a problem.. and then I can make the speaker level outs low level so all yo have to do is solder an Rca onto the speaker output and run rica cables as if it were an aftermarket radio

I just shipped a new ACM to JSN on here so he can have this.. it makes a huge difference on the overall system because it all starts with the beginning signal..
 

wildcatgoal

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I did same on my last car, took low level from factory radio which was flat and only processed in the g'dam Bose amp. Soldering RCAs is a pain in the hairy crack, but worked great.
 

OEMRadio

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I did same on my last car, took low level from factory radio which was flat and only processed in the g'dam Bose amp. Soldering RCAs is a pain in the hairy crack, but worked great.
Yeah, the RCAs though I usually buy RCA y cables.. with 1 male two female and cut the male end off.. that way you have two pre terminated RCA and you just strip the wires and solder that
 

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[MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION],
What do you charge for your service? My processor has input equalization, but it may just be easier to have you remove the equalization all together.

BTW, thank you for offering to do this!
 

OEMRadio

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[MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION],
What do you charge for your service? My processor has input equalization, but it may just be easier to have you remove the equalization all together.

BTW, thank you for offering to do this!
PM sent
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