Active Exhaust Solutions

[WCKD350]

As many of you know, GT350s are notorious for active exhaust issues — burnt harnesses, stuck valves, failed actuators, you name it. I’m running a pretty aggressive setup: catless ARH longtube headers and a Corsa Xtreme valved cat-back, still using the OEM actuators and harnesses.


Last year I already replaced both actuators and harnesses (OEM), which gave me about 10 months of working valves. Now I’m back to square one:

• The car doesn’t throw any errors — no “Exhaust Mode Not Available” or “Drive Mode Not Available” messages
• I can still toggle between modes, but:
  • The valves are often stuck closed or won’t switch back after opening
  • Sometimes they briefly work, then get stuck again
• 
  
• On cold starts, the car defaults to quiet mode and sometimes stays stuck there the whole drive
• I don’t hear any clicking or motor noise from the actuators when switching modes
• I just fully charged the battery with a CTEK 7002, and while it helped with cold starts, the valve issue still persists
• I’m seeing inconsistent voltage while driving: ~12.6V under light load, jumps to 13.6–14V at 2.5–3k RPM, which makes me wonder if low RPM voltage or alternator behavior is affecting valve function

I’ve considered pulling the mufflers to clean/lube the valve flaps, but that means another $200+ at a shop with no guarantee it’ll fix it. I can’t run open valves 24/7 due to neighbors and local police, but replacing actuators every year is getting ridiculous.


Has anyone figured out a reliable long-term fix for setups like this? Especially with headers/catless systems? Maybe:

• Stronger aftermarket actuators?
• External valve controllers with better reliability?
• Custom valved exhaust that handles soot/heat better?

Appreciate any feedback — just trying to keep the active exhaust functional without living in a shop.

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[jalts]

What was prescribed to me on this forum was to hit the valves with some Liquid Wrench to penetrate and lubricate the valves inside the muffler (apparently this was recommended in a previous thread from Ford Performance Tech's present on the track attack). I just used WD-40 a few days (didn't have LW) and it helped with a sticky flap for now.