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Turbong

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@turbotigger604

Yes a custom tune would be technically better, if done right, but there is no guarantee... tuners make mistakes, look at all the engines that popped by famous tuners. They had to learn with other peoples money even then mistakes still happen as they are still human. The canned tune might be less optimal but it has safety and guarantee that it has been tested and safe as they have engineer's that work for Ford and have access to engineering data and very expensive engine dyno resources to test that lone tuners just do not and 0 guarantee. The question then becomes what is more important to you a little extra icing that could spoil the cake or a cake with standard icing but guaranteed?
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@turbotigger604

Yes a custom tune would be technically better, if done right, but there is no guarantee... tuners make mistakes, look at all the engines that popped by famous tuners. They had to learn with other peoples money even then mistakes still happen as they are still human. The canned tune might be less optimal but it has safety and guarantee that it has been tested and safe as they have engineer's that work for Ford and have access to engineering data and very expensive engine dyno resources to test that lone tuners just do not and 0 guarantee. The question then becomes what is more important to you a little extra icing that could spoil the cake or a cake with standard icing but guaranteed?
Don't disagree that tuners make mistakes, every new platform is a learning experience and tuners get better with time. My whole point is that you can just as easily blow your motor on a FP tune or canned cobb/sct tune as you can with a pro tune. Ecoboom has happened across stock cars, canned tune/fp tuned cars and pro tune cars alike. There isn't a major group that stands out, some cars were lemons, some victims of the early LPFP sensor, others were just plain abused.

My whole point here is any eco can go boom at anytime, if you don't take care of the car this isn't a platform that will respond well to plain old neglect and abuse. Whatever tuner/tune you go with its still a battle against protecting the paper thin block from LSPI.
 

Turbong

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I am sorry but you're saying there is no difference in danger from stock to FP to any other custom tune which can't possibly be true and you're back at square one. We will agree to disagree.
 

kent0464

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Any tune doesn’t tune out the stupidity of the owner/driver. Seriously there should be classes on how to drive a tuned car, especially a boosted car, it’s so easy to pop a motor.
A FP tune is the way to go if you are at all worried about damage. Pro-tuners are great, but know what you are getting, they are going to get you more power all the way around, but your car will be closer to the edge with less cushion for mistakes. Know that all the boost at low rpms will bend rods, stomping the peddle in high gear will pop head gaskets and blocks, not running premium or better is just stupid with a turbo, changing anything in the motor, trans, gearing, etc while on a tune is asking for damage.
A pro tune can be fun and not affect the reliability of your car, but you have to know what you have and where the limits are, talk to your tuner and ask questions and advice.
 

RickA1

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Won't get into which is safer, but having had both I can say that the PD tune by Ryan makes the car SIGNIFICANTLY quicker than the FP tune.

Just don't be stupid, take good care and don't floor it while cold and avoid high gear/low RPM WOT's

Of course any tune that brings more boost than the car was designed for is risky. So in the end be prepared to "pay to play".
 

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If you haven't gotten an intercooler, get one. Ive been driving around for 3-4months with FP tune now. I got an intercooler 2 days ago, and it feels like a blast. Never lost power, granted its really cold out. but before my car definitely would slow down over time. Mine was a lot of fun, other than I blew my charge pipe, and had to tighten them back down.
 
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Cardude99

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I have an intercooler. See my mods in my signature
 

JolleyRoger

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I have an intercooler. See my mods in my signature
How do you like the Steeda springs with the Magna ride? I had a lot of Steeda parts on my 5.0 and with my Continenals the thing was a sticky corner blast!. Have the EB now with Magna and a little apprehensive it will hamper the Magna functionality.
 
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Cardude99

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How do you like the Steeda springs with the Magna ride? I had a lot of Steeda parts on my 5.0 and with my Continenals the thing was a sticky corner blast!. Have the EB now with Magna and a little apprehensive it will hamper the Magna functionality.
Awesome if you like to push the car, but not gonna lie it stiffend the ride up a lot. If you have good roads then it won't be much of a problem however if you have bad roads near you then the springs may be a little much. Body roll is much reduced compared to factory springs. The drop is slight, but I didn't want a massive drop. Sport plus and track mode only benifited from the springs, normal got stiffer but still comfy enough to daily due to the magneride. If I didn't have magneride I wouldn't do these springs on a daily. Magneride makes the springs manageable.

All my suspension mods have done nothing but make the car more fun to drive. no magneride issues at all. If you like corner carving and live near decent roads then I say do it. But do camber plates too. Your struts will be off so you might as well.
 

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A good read from Stratified.

1. LSPI – low speed pre-ignition. The common killer of downsized highly boosted direct injection engines. A concoction of oil blowby, carbon buildup, high torque, oil formulation, injection spray pattern will cause the mixture to pre-ignite and be immediately followed by what is known as super knock. That means that the mixture will ignite well before the spark plug is triggered by the ECU. The chain of events that follow will quickly destroy a piston as the expanding hot combustion event will push down on an upward moving piston. It only has to happen a few times. The most common time this will happen is when you have been cruising on the highway and then punch the throttle or get into boost quickly. Remember the car will build a lot of boost even at part throttle.

The hot engine in combination with a lot of PCV oil flow make the scenario much more likely. This is the reason you often don’t see these engines failing at wide open throttle. During an LSPI event you can get an outright failure or you get a crack that will eventually lead to the failure at what appear odd times. There are many ways to mitigate LSPI but the fundamental reason for it is ingrained in the design of the motor. Things like water-methanol injection, added port injection, carbon cleaning, using high quality oil and changing it often (there are now oil formulations designed to be more pre-ignition resistant) and good intercooling go a long way. This first part comes down to keeping the engine cleaner and cooler.

This engine when tuned will makes the majority of its torque in the lower range of the power band with an OEM turbo. That’s simply a physical fact from the way the engine and turbocharger are designed. This is the operating zone associated with LSPI. Keep this in mind and AVOID getting into boost right away after you have cruised on the highway for some time. Downshift, ease into boost, build it gradually and then get into it. After this initial time easing into it, have a blast going through the gears! I also recommend to avoid loading up the motor in the low RPM range and a high gear in general – downshift if you are under 3000 RPM on the highway and you need to make a pass.

Don’t confuse this with not driving the car hard. Cars that survive the longest are often well exercised. Run it through the gears in boost and allow some of the oil and carbon residues to burn up.
 

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Cardude99

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A good read from Stratified.

1. LSPI – low speed pre-ignition. The common killer of downsized highly boosted direct injection engines. A concoction of oil blowby, carbon buildup, high torque, oil formulation, injection spray pattern will cause the mixture to pre-ignite and be immediately followed by what is known as super knock. That means that the mixture will ignite well before the spark plug is triggered by the ECU. The chain of events that follow will quickly destroy a piston as the expanding hot combustion event will push down on an upward moving piston. It only has to happen a few times. The most common time this will happen is when you have been cruising on the highway and then punch the throttle or get into boost quickly. Remember the car will build a lot of boost even at part throttle.

The hot engine in combination with a lot of PCV oil flow make the scenario much more likely. This is the reason you often don’t see these engines failing at wide open throttle. During an LSPI event you can get an outright failure or you get a crack that will eventually lead to the failure at what appear odd times. There are many ways to mitigate LSPI but the fundamental reason for it is ingrained in the design of the motor. Things like water-methanol injection, added port injection, carbon cleaning, using high quality oil and changing it often (there are now oil formulations designed to be more pre-ignition resistant) and good intercooling go a long way. This first part comes down to keeping the engine cleaner and cooler.

This engine when tuned will makes the majority of its torque in the lower range of the power band with an OEM turbo. That’s simply a physical fact from the way the engine and turbocharger are designed. This is the operating zone associated with LSPI. Keep this in mind and AVOID getting into boost right away after you have cruised on the highway for some time. Downshift, ease into boost, build it gradually and then get into it. After this initial time easing into it, have a blast going through the gears! I also recommend to avoid loading up the motor in the low RPM range and a high gear in general – downshift if you are under 3000 RPM on the highway and you need to make a pass.

Don’t confuse this with not driving the car hard. Cars that survive the longest are often well exercised. Run it through the gears in boost and allow some of the oil and carbon residues to burn up.
I wonder if lspi affects manual transmission cars moreso then auto cars? I know it affects all eco's but I suspect that the stick cars may be affected worse since a human is controlling the gear changes vs the computer.
 

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I wonder if lspi affects manual transmission cars moreso then auto cars? I know it affects all eco's but I suspect that the stick cars may be affected worse since a human is controlling the gear changes vs the computer.
I think there's a higher chance of someone being lazy in a manual and either forgetting to downshift, not knowing that they are playing with fire by not doing so, or they just don't care.
 

Turbong

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I think there's a higher chance of someone being lazy in a manual and either forgetting to downshift, not knowing that they are playing with fire by not doing so, or they just don't care.
Impossible to tell, there are far more autos than manual, both have blown. But it would be easier to control in manual granted if you're good at it, seeing how autos love to lug the engine to save fuel on the prime LSPI range id say that's more dangerous since most drive on normal mode.
 

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Impossible to tell, there are far more autos than manual, both have blown. But it would be easier to control in manual granted if you're good at it, seeing how autos love to lug the engine to save fuel on the prime LSPI range id say that's more dangerous since most drive on normal mode.
True, i dont have enough experience with the 6r80 to know how quick it is to downshift when you get on the gas. When i popped my block shortly after buying the car i did so by flooring it in 6th at about 65, didn't know a damn thing about turbo 4s before i got this car and apparently thought that would be fine to do on a cobb tune :cwl:
 
 




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