2016 GT Premium with 9 speaker system - it just keeps on giving

[joeyvaz]

3.5” pigtails are available from Sounds Good Stereo as are their 6.5 and 3.5 adapter plates…perfect fitment with no trimming and they come with mounting screws, gasket material, and pigtails. Much better quality than the cheap Metra crap.

But, if it works, it works

Wish I knew that beforehand. I'd definitely order a set, but hey, soldering is easy for me. But thanks for the info!

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[Evolvd]

Wish I knew that beforehand. I'd definitely order a set, but hey, soldering is easy for me. But thanks for the info!

Yeah I know it’s too little too late but the info might help the next person.

 

[joeyvaz]

Yeah I know it’s too little too late but the info might help the next person.

Absolutely.

 

[Canuckican]

Sound: Exponentially better than the OEM speakers-obviously. I now have crisp highs and full mids and mid-bass. BUT, the OEM head unit doesn't have enough power and I can hear clipping when the radio is at around 20-22 on the dial. I have a Dynavin coming in tomorrow that will be installed this week. Hopefully I get more volume without clipping since it supposedly puts out 45w per/ch. We shall see. If I need more output, especially when I install the subs, I have a Soundigital 800.4 on standby.
<snip>

Stay Tuned...

I hope you post somewhere on Mustang6g.com how it goes with installing and using the Dynavin. I'd be really interesting in learning about it.

 

[joeyvaz]

I hope you post somewhere on Mustang6g.com how it goes with installing and using the Dynavin. I'd be really interesting in learning about it.

Will do. I'll post my review and any additional install comments once I'm done.

 

[Canuckican]

After talking it over with a Crutchfield tech, I decided to do this in a few steps. Step 1 was to replace the two lower door speakers I know were bad and see how that sounds so I replaced them with Infinity Reference REF607FSL 6-1/2" Shallow 2-way Speakers. I am tempering my expectations because I still have the stock HU and amp. However, now I can at least listen to the stereo without the speakers sounding like my knees when I stand up.

I have never seen speakers deteriorate like the OEM lower door ones did. I can't see the factory amp blowing them apart that badly but both were thoroughly trashed! I am at least going to take a good look at the rear deck speakers and see what kind of condition they are in. From what I read on here, they do not contribute much to the overall sound quality in this setup so I may only do something about them if they seem damaged.

I think in a little bit I will move on to step two and replace the upper door and A-pillar speakers with Infinity Reference REF307F 3-1/2" 2-way speakers and Infinity Reference REF-375TX 3/4" tweeters. These are supposed to work well with lower input power.

But this will be after I resolve the rattle and exhaust leak under the passenger side. The collector/mid-pipe bolts look to be 1/16 of a turn away from turning a tightening attempt into a broken bolt and a whole lot of misery.

 

[Bassackwards]

After talking it over with a Crutchfield tech, I decided to do this in a few steps. Step 1 was to replace the two lower door speakers I know were bad and see how that sounds so I replaced them with Infinity Reference REF607FSL 6-1/2" Shallow 2-way Speakers. I am tempering my expectations because I still have the stock HU and amp. However, now I can at least listen to the stereo without the speakers sounding like my knees when I stand up.

I have never seen speakers deteriorate like the OEM lower door ones did. I can't see the factory amp blowing them apart that badly but both were thoroughly trashed! I am at least going to take a good look at the rear deck speakers and see what kind of condition they are in. From what I read on here, they do not contribute much to the overall sound quality in this setup so I may only do something about them if they seem damaged.

I think in a little bit I will move on to step two and replace the upper door and A-pillar speakers with Infinity Reference REF307F 3-1/2" 2-way speakers and Infinity Reference REF-375TX 3/4" tweeters. These are supposed to work well with lower input power.

But this will be after I resolve the rattle and exhaust leak under the passenger side. The collector/mid-pipe bolts look to be 1/16 of a turn away from turning a tightening attempt into a broken bolt and a whole lot of misery.

6 tweeters up front is a lot. You might want to get a 2nd opinion before going that route.

I only have a single set of Alpine 6 1/2 separates with the woofer in the door and the tweeters in the A pillar and it's plenty for nearly everyone. I just blocked off the 3 1/2" holes in the upper doors

 

[Evolvd]

Indeed, not to mention how he’s going to get the signal split for the two ways in the lower woofers. The stock amp doesn’t sent a full range signal to the 6.5 so the tweeters will essentially be dead weight.

 

[Canuckican]

Indeed, not to mention how he’s going to get the signal split for the two ways in the lower woofers. The stock amp doesn’t sent a full range signal to the 6.5 so the tweeters will essentially be dead weight.

The new lower door speakers are there now so I can just leave them alone. Or should I move them to to rear deck get a woofer/tweeter component setup and put the woofer in the lower door, the tweeter in the A-pillar and not bother connecting the midrange in the upper door? I thought the tweeter in the A-pillar was fed by the midrange but I don't know what that would mean for alternative setups.

I really don't care how many speakers I use, I am just looking for passable sound now and speakers that can be re-used if/when I get a dsp and amp. And I don't want to have to fork out big $$$ for an 8 channel amp! The sound system in my F150 sounds great to me with a 4 channel amp.

I am about halfway through the large sticky on wiring and configurations. Most of it is well beyond my basic requirements.

 

[Evolvd]

The new lower door speakers are there now so I can just leave them alone. Or should I move them to to rear deck get a woofer/tweeter component setup and put the woofer in the lower door, the tweeter in the A-pillar and not bother connecting the midrange in the upper door? I thought the tweeter in the A-pillar was fed by the midrange but I don't know what that would mean for alternative setups.

I really don't care how many speakers I use, I am just looking for passable sound now and speakers that can be re-used if/when I get a dsp and amp. And I don't want to have to fork out big $$$ for an 8 channel amp! The sound system in my F150 sounds great to me with a 4 channel amp.

I am about halfway through the large sticky on wiring and configurations. Most of it is well beyond my basic requirements.

I would do the coax in the rears. At a minimum do a pair of components for the front. You can run all those off a four channel amp and the crossovers that come with the speakers.

 

[Canuckican]

I would do the coax in the rears. At a minimum do a pair of components for the front. You can run all those off a four channel amp and the crossovers that come with the speakers.

Does this mean I would need to run new speaker wire from the new woofer in the lower door to the new tweeter in the A-Pillar? I've read that's not a whole lot of fun trying to do.

 

[Evolvd]

Does this mean I would need to run new speaker wire from the new woofer in the lower door to the new tweeter in the A-Pillar? I've read that's not a whole lot of fun trying to do.

No, you can remove the 3.5” and tie in to that plug. But, running new wire to the A pillars isn’t hard, just time consuming.

 

[Evolvd]

Does this mean I would need to run new speaker wire from the new woofer in the lower door to the new tweeter in the A-Pillar? I've read that's not a whole lot of fun trying to do.

Do yourself a favor and go to Sounds Good Stereo. They sell quality speaker adapters instead of the shit Metra junk Crutchfield peddles. They also have adapter plugs for the 3.5 so you don’t have to hack up the stock wiring.

 

[Canuckican]

No, you can remove the 3.5” and tie in to that plug. But, running new wire to the A pillars isn’t hard, just time consuming.

Thanks for the advice.

Before I never really considered I'd end up with a tweeter in the lower door 6.5" two-way, another tweeter in the 3.5" two way in the midrange hole plus yet another tweeter in the A-pillar. That's a whole lot of tweeting!

Now to figure out what a good choice is for the 2 way component speakers for the woofer for the lower door and tweeter to replace the OEM one in the A-pillar.

Hopefully I can find a suitable 2 way component setup for under $200 that's compatible with the Infinity Reference 2 ways I just installed and will be moving to the rear deck.

 

[Evolvd]

Thanks for the advice.

Before I never really considered I'd end up with a tweeter in the lower door 6.5" two-way, another tweeter in the 3.5" two way in the midrange hole plus yet another tweeter in the A-pillar. That's a whole lot of tweeting!

Now to figure out what a good choice is for the 2 way component speakers for the woofer for the lower door and tweeter to replace the OEM one in the A-pillar.

Hopefully I can find a suitable 2 way component setup for under $200 that's compatible with the Infinity Reference 2 ways I just installed and will be moving to the rear deck.

There’s really no “compatibility” between sets of speakers. The main concern is having a good set of front components. I’d spend more money on a good set of components and a cheaper 4 channel amp than vice versa. I’d recommend JL Audio C2-650. They are $299 but you might be able to find them a little cheaper from an authorized online dealer.

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