2015+ Mustang Amp Installation Video

[RevvdMedia]

Hey guys, after almost 2 years I finally decided to edit the footage I took when installing my amplifier and sub into the rear of my GT. I hope this helps some of you guys that are thinking of the install or need a little video guidance. Most of it is pretty easy, pull out panels, run wires, put panels back on.


Feel free to watch some of the other crap on my channel if you want too lol.


https://www.youtube.com/embed/i0u4vYlV6JU

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[DarkHor$e]

Where did you get those seat covers?

 

[catchthecarp]

Nice job on the video, very helpful, thanks for putting it together!

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just curious, when you were doing the R&R, did any panel clips break and if so, which ones should we be aware of as being the weakest?

 

[RevvdMedia]

Where did you get those seat covers?

They're the factory seats from the 68B redline premier package. I think it has a new name but you can still get similar on the 18+.

 

[RevvdMedia]

Just curious, when you were doing the R&R, did any panel clips break and if so, which ones should we be aware of as being the weakest?

When removing the items shown, here are the problem areas, from hood to trunk:

Fender liner - those push pins are a hassle. They can break or bend. You need to pull the "inner" piece in the middle out (part way or all the way) before you can remove the "base." Use a screwdriver or pry tool to pull the inner part out, then it helps to take needle nose plier to pull on the center part of the pin to get it the rest of the way.

**Note** it would be a good idea to use conduit tubing like I did on the power wire, because the edge of the hole you feed it through could end up wearing the casing on the power cable.

- The fuse cover needs to have the retainer pulled (closest to the firewall), then pull it UP (towards the dash), the pull out. To get the trim around that piece, you need to pull the lowest clip from the aluminum trim running along the glovebox, or at least I remember doing that.

-To pull out the rear seat side trim, you need to pull the trim surrounding where the rear seat belt feeds through (just pull it out), then you can start pulling. I've scratched up the rear C pillars from doing so many things back there, that lower trim will scratch your C pillar if it rubs along it - and it will. I suggest maybe masking the C pillar or putting something in between to keep this from happening.

The only other tricky but is the last retainer on the big rear seat trim piece you pull out, there is 1 more (yellow?) pin along the floor - it's super tight but comes out with force. I've never broken that one.


Parts that DO break during audio installs are the window switch plates on the doors if doing door speakers. I've broken 1 piece that holds the clip on each!

I've done all the speakers in the car, but didn't do video of the other ones. If you have other questions, I might be able to help.

 

[Niz55]

Loc is crap. Use a lc2i with acubass so your bass doesn't drop off when volume is turned up.

 

[RevvdMedia]

Loc is crap. Use a lc2i with acubass so your bass doesn't drop off when volume is turned up.

I agree, and yes there is some rolloff with this setup. I think the LC2i is the next cheapest part that I'm aware of to avoid that, as you mention.

With that being said, for my setup, I don't notice much rolloff between 0 and 40% volume which is where I'm usually at with the windows up. When the windows are down, the bass drowns out anyway, so again the rolloff isn't a huge factor for me. I mostly listen to metal, so I don't need crazy bass.

At least if it did bother me, getting to that LOC is easy and I can swap to a LC2i. It works with line level inputs, right?

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