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2015 Ecoboost rough idle - battery/voltage problem?

beceen

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Hi all, I hope you can help troubleshoot this one. I have 2015 Ecoboost with automatic trans with a pretty low 54000 km on the odo, and 2 weeks ago it started behaving like on the video (I posted in on the Mustang reddit sub):

Basically, only on warm engine it doesn't keep stable RPMs on idle, especially when in stop and go traffic or on the traffic lights. It doesnt shut off, but shudders and the battery voltage also drops/jumps (from 14,4 o 12 or even 11V and then back to normal around 14). I went to Ford service, and car doesn't throw any codes and generally feels normal (acceleration, overall driving).

From what I found online, I decided to change the fuel pressure sensor (BU5Z 9F982 B) that some say may also be reason for the dreaded ecobooms (I think it was changed under warranty in the US but there was no service action in the EU, which is where I'm from). It seemed to fix the rough rpm, but the problem came back yeasterday. The RPMs kind of stabilize on Park, and you can see, they wave when on R or D.

Some users suggested that maybe something takes more energy from my batter - I put the battery on CTEK conditioner/charger for 12+ hours; it seemed to help for some time, but the problem keeps coming back.

My battery is from March 2020, and I have few problems with it running out (like battery would deplete just after 2 weeks of the car sitting in garage; I don't drive much).
Sparkplugs have been changed last year when the car had 48kkm on the odo, in August I had the annual service (oil, filters), I make around 3000-4000 km a year.

Generally the car was trouble-free up to now.

Any ideas? thanks!
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Call_Me_Bruce

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This is concerning:

My battery is from March 2020, and I have few problems with it running out (like battery would deplete just after 2 weeks of the car sitting in garage; I don't drive much).

You have a module or something that is not shutting off, or waking back up when it should not be. There is a great Pine Hollow Auto diagnostics video on youtube that figured out a similar problem on a late model Ford product.

You have two problems, one is a battery draw with the key off and the other is irregular voltage when cold. I'm going to give my stock advice, get the alternator and battery tested. Then check all electrical grounds. Make sure they are free of corrosion and are making good contact. Next would be a voltage drop test. You need to have the car off, key fobs away from the vehicle and let all of the modules time out. After that you can see what circuits are pulling electricity when they should not be. I'm not sure of what the winter weather is like where you live and how much salt gets dumped on the roads to keep them clear. Make sure any electrical connections within the fuse box are free of corrosion as well.
You can get the wiring diagrams through Motorcraft online. All you need is your VIN. You can buy a 24 hour subscription for a reasonable amount. I used this service when I was putting a Ford Fusion back together. Came in handy.
 

CAELUM

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Hi all, I hope you can help troubleshoot this one. I have 2015 Ecoboost with automatic trans with a pretty low 54000 km on the odo, and 2 weeks ago it started behaving like on the video (I posted in on the Mustang reddit sub):

Basically, only on warm engine it doesn't keep stable RPMs on idle, especially when in stop and go traffic or on the traffic lights. It doesnt shut off, but shudders and the battery voltage also drops/jumps (from 14,4 o 12 or even 11V and then back to normal around 14). I went to Ford service, and car doesn't throw any codes and generally feels normal (acceleration, overall driving).

From what I found online, I decided to change the fuel pressure sensor (BU5Z 9F982 B) that some say may also be reason for the dreaded ecobooms (I think it was changed under warranty in the US but there was no service action in the EU, which is where I'm from). It seemed to fix the rough rpm, but the problem came back yeasterday. The RPMs kind of stabilize on Park, and you can see, they wave when on R or D.

Some users suggested that maybe something takes more energy from my batter - I put the battery on CTEK conditioner/charger for 12+ hours; it seemed to help for some time, but the problem keeps coming back.

My battery is from March 2020, and I have few problems with it running out (like battery would deplete just after 2 weeks of the car sitting in garage; I don't drive much).
Sparkplugs have been changed last year when the car had 48kkm on the odo, in August I had the annual service (oil, filters), I make around 3000-4000 km a year.

Generally the car was trouble-free up to now.

Any ideas? thanks!
I have the same issue and its driving me nuts. Finally got a DTC and it was for cylinder 4. Plug was down to the nub. Changed it, no fix! All new coils and plugs, still issue but most apparent when in D stopped at light (brake on) with warm engine. If misery loves company, I am your company.
PS It ain't the battery for me.
 
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beceen

beceen

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hey, I managed finally to solve the issue - it was a dirty fuel injector on one of the cylinders. That's why when crusing and accellerating all was ok, but it struggled on idle (injector was providing uneven loads of fuel, and ecu was trying to countermeasure - thus causing the rpms to fluctuate). So check your injectors, clean them, and add some cleaning formula with next tank of gas.
 

CAELUM

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Yep, trying some Techron next.
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