2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[Aubrey]

Installed the PP2 yesterday. Hardware install was a breeze. Loading the tune surprisingly wasn't. Took several attempts to work but finally did. Was raining quite a bit and getting dark so test drive was short and slow. Can confirm what others say...exhaust note got a little deeper (I have a Corsa Sport CB) and car feels stronger in low rpms. However, check engine light came on. Can I use the ProCal tool to get rid of it/if so, how? Thanks!

You will be able to see the error codes in the software and either fix it, or as I had to; relearn the crank settings. It’s in the software.

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[derklink]

Thank you! I'll try after breakfast. How does relearning the crank settings work, is it in the Software, too? Oh, and can I just adjust the tire revolutions by changing the number/does it require entirely reflashing the Software? Greetings to Australia

 

[Aubrey]

Thank you! I'll try after breakfast. How does relearning the crank settings work, is it in the Software, too? Oh, and can I just adjust the tire revolutions by changing the number/does it require entirely reflashing the Software? Greetings to Australia

Yep, I forget the name of the tab on RHS, “analyse” I think, it has a relearn button. Then you have to rev the engine over 4000 until it goes away. Also it’s suggested to switch on the fuel button above the relearn. (Sorry not in front of my software so I can’t remember all the tabs or label names)

 

[derklink]

Thank you! Everything worked. Did the diagnosis and deleted the check engine light. Was something like PCM relay power shut off ... too early. Now the remote start works again, too. Well, I hope everything goes well on my 220 miles drive back home.

 

[Kevin]

Has anyone's "Configure" tab gotten stuck on "Verifying..." ?? I tried to turn the Octane Adjust to the ON position and although it states enabling octane adjust has been completed the configure tab is stuck "Verifying......."

Also I still can't read knock..

 

[Aubrey]

Has anyone's "Configure" tab gotten stuck on "Verifying..." ?? I tried to turn the Octane Adjust to the ON position and although it states enabling octane adjust has been completed the configure tab is stuck "Verifying......."

Also I still can't read knock..

Same here

 

[Kevin]

Well, I called them and they basically said I’m an idiot and it’s fine haha. Unless you’re making changes there’s nothing to verify so they said not to worry.

 

[MattGrz]

Mine does the same, I assume it’s normal.

Thank you!

 

[Einar]

I wanted to ask if anyone that has a power pack. As had issues accessing the ECU to read error codes? The computer my Ford dealership here in Iceland has just can't connect to the car. I have a US car but the S550 is also sold in Europe so it shouldn't be a issue for the dealer to connect with the car.

 

[Aubrey]

No problem with the US pack here in Australia.

 

[white15gt]

I wanted to ask if anyone that has a power pack. As had issues accessing the ECU to read error codes? The computer my Ford dealership here in Iceland has just can't connect to the car. I have a US car but the S550 is also sold in Europe so it shouldn't be a issue for the dealer to connect with the car.

The dealership needs to manually ID the car, by using either the Tear Tag (4 digit code on the PCM) or the PCM part number.

 

[CrashOverride]

I'm considering the PP1, to those that have it and have also had another canned tune (Bama, etc) what did you like better? I'm mostly looking for more low end torque which is why the PP1 seems right up my alley. Future mods will be limited to an X-pipe and maybe a CAI. I know if I get the CAI, I'll have to get one with an insert or a smaller tube. Couple of years down the road, probably go with a S/C, but I know that will get a tune with it any way.

 

[TheLion]

Just wanted to provide an update, I'm at 22,900 miles. CEL came on a couple days ago (last thursday). Power Pack 2 was installed at about 17,000 miles. Haven't had any engine related issues with the Power Pack 2 until this point. P0420 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (O2 sensor). Dealer determined that the passenger side catalytic converter is bad and is a warranty covered replacement. I did some data logging before I brought it in, some WOT pulls in 4th gear up to 7k, both sides exhaust temps tracked identically, within a couple degrees. Highest I saw on Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2's was 1700F, average around 1600F. I know for a fact Ford Performance leaves in all of the safeties including temp limits to prevent over heated cats, I didn't see any indications anything was over temp. Highway cruising they were about 1300F which is typical. Either way, dealer deemed it a warranty repair (along with my peeling steering wheel).

Examples like this are just one more good reason I'm such a big advocate of the Ford Performance Power Packs over anything after market. 9 times out of 10, if something fails even if it is NOT related to your after market ECU calibration, it will be blamed on that modification and your footing the bill for the repairs. In the worst case examples, you may end up paying 7k~9k for a whole new short block. There's plenty of Ecoboost owners with after market tunes and blocks with holes through them who footed the bill for a new engine because it was after market (in many of those cases I would certainly agree with the dealer that the tuning was actually the cause, there are almost no failures like that stock from the 2.3L EB's).

Stuff goes bad, some times well before it should. While you car will run just fine weather the cats are working or not, if you have e-check like I do, you're SOL when it's time for e-check. Mods are in my sig, I run the car very hard, but also maintain it well (oil changes ever 5k, running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic). So far the Power Pack 2 has been absolutely stellar once I addressed the power fade issue during sustained heavy throttle due to oil vaporization (aka run a catch can on the passenger side) diluting octane.

After installing the roll center and bump steer kit from steeda the car now handles exceptionally well instead of a series of compromises where you gain one attribute like loosing multiple others. It's simply an awesome car top to bottom now and is miles ahead of where it was when I purchased it. Each part plays a very specific role and any one of them would upset the great balance it has.

 

[rayban1]

Have the PP2 , have not installed yet . Did install the ford performance oil seperator passenger side and the car feels like it runs better.

 

[Meatball]

Power Pack 3 experience in California: The good and the bad.

Just wanted to report on my experience with PP3 here in California (=lousy 91 gas). I have a '17 GT with PP3 and no other mods other than a FP oil separator. When I had the PP installed, I was actually a bit upset. I had read that the power curve is smoother ("tamer") so should have known what to expect, based on people's experience here and on the MotoIQ test. But I missed the mid-range surges with the stock manifold/calibration more than I thought...it just wasn't as fun to goose the throttle in the mid-range as before. That was a few thousand miles ago, and since then, I've changed from almost wanting to eat the $2.5K+ and 472 hp and go back to stock or PP2, to really loving the car with PP3. It's still a bit smooth for my taste in the low-mid range but charges hard in the upper rev range...it's super fun to floor it in 2nd and feel the power as the tach swings past 4K, knowing it's just going to get better until it peaks over 3K later! It's crazy fast. Third gear pulls are the best, it gets to bonkers speeds before you know it. So, absolutely no regrets now...not for going with PP3 or with getting a '17 and saving some money rather than an '18 (or the WRX I was considering...the '17s were pretty cheap at the end of last year so were competitive). Since mine's a base GT (with zero options) I have the skinny 235 all-season tires, and with PP3 I can't floor it in first without some wheelspin, even at higher revs. But it does mean it's about 100 lbs lighter than most PP and/or premium models, which is equivalent to an additional 11-12 hp at our hp/curb weight ratio. Would make a killer roll-racer, though it would get beaten badly in a dig race or at the track.

What is very annoying, though, is the pinging. If it's warm out (IAT>120 or so), AC on going uphill or otherwise under load, you'll hear that rattle at <3K or so rpm. I hate it. It settles out afterwards, and when the IAT is cool (~80) I generally don't hear it and never hear it at high rpm during a pull (I always do that with the window open, just to hear the engine). But still, it takes getting used to. FP swears it does no damage, which I believe, actually...I've never heard of anyone experiencing engine damage due to using a FPPP, and since I'm aware of it now, I hear lots of cars pinging under load, especially BMWs. So I guess it's just something we have to live with with cars using aggressive timing curves, and just get used to. If you're on 91 and it's a warm day, roll down your window and listen when you goose it at ~2500 rpm, you'll hear that rattle. But (I hope) it's under knock-sensor control and not going to damage anything. I just hope I can recognize what it sounds like if it IS doing something bad, but I doubt that's ever going to happen....these calibrations are too well tested and OEM engineered.

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