10r80 leaking fluid on high pressure shifts

[dn1984]

Got a weird problem. I'm on AED's E85 tune (well right now on the flex after having the issue) so I have very high pressure shifts in S mode. I was in Mexico the other day and did a couple back to back runs against a bike from about 60-140. On the second run I noticed it slipped or hung when shifting into I think 6th gear for a couple seconds. So I left off and slowed down to cruising speed, checked transmission temp and it was about 205 which is normal. Didn't think anything of it.

Fast forward to later that night and I was still in Mexico but this time against a 5th gen heads/cam Camaro SS. This time I did 3 back to back runs around the same speeds and again got the delayed shift on the last one. Once again, slowed down to 70 and cruised on the highway for about a mile then checked my trans temp and it was 235! So it had to have been even higher since that's what it cooled down to after some cruising.

Put the shifter in D and normal mode, drove normally back home and noticed it was slipping between some gears (still pretty hot but cooled down to around 215-220). Pulled in my garage and I noticed the smell of burning oil. Lo and behold there was some transmission fluid dripping underneath, and it was spread over the exhaust like something had blown and shot fluid. I checked everything and couldn't figure out where it was leaking from, and no lines were obviously blown off.

Parked it overnight, and came out the next morning and there was no fluid on the ground. So I loaded my flex tune and have been driving around in normal mode and shifter in D, taking it easy, just going to work and back as I transition back to gasoline (have about 12 gallons of 91 now) and it has been shifting normal, with trans temps getting no higher than 194-199 when full warmed up which is where it always was before. I don't see any signs of fluid leakage.

I'm going to load the stock tune back in when I get a full tank of gas and probably take it to the dealership to have them look at it under warranty. But, do I definitely have some kind of damage? Or can something like this happen on rare occasions where the fluid heats up and sprays out of some overflow tube or something if the trans temp gets really high?

I don't want to push it to try to replicate that leak again, at risk of causing a bigger problem. At least not until I'm on the stock tune and if something happens I can just have it towed to the dealer for warranty work.

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[Dominant1]

Sorry to say but you may have worn out clutches.. I’d take the pan off and look for clutch material in the pan, Also look at the magnet For metal shavings .. if so rebuild time. You dont want to wait. Trust Me i waited and it destroyed my trans and converter. I Gotta an exedy stage2 kit for my 6r80 with a billet input shaft.. all is well now ..

 

[dn1984]

Sorry to say but you may have worn out clutches.. I’d take the pan off and look for clutch material in the pan, Also look at the magnet For metal shavings .. if so rebuild time. You dont want to wait. Trust Me i waited and it destroyed my trans and converter. I Gotta an exedy stage2 kit for my 6r80 with a billet input shaft.. all is well now ..

Well if this is the case, then I guess my warranty would cover it. That doesn't really explain the fluid leakage though. I think it was slipping just because it was extremely hot. Even a 100% healthy trans will do that

 

[Dominant1]

It simple, debris floating around in the transmission under pressure will ruin the seals causing internal and external leaks..

 

[Dominant1]

Before my build my trans temps were the same as yours Just regular driving. After my build, even after heavy thrashing my temps have never gone above 180.. big difference!!!

 

[dn1984]

Before my build my trans temps were the same as yours Just regular driving. After my build, even after heavy thrashing my temps have never gone above 180.. big difference!!!

i wonder if the 10r80s run hotter. 200 for me is right in the middle when i pull up the gauge view. always been like that

 

[4leghorse]

The chances are pretty slim to get warranty work done on a e85 tuned car... I brought my car in for a trans issue and they checked to see if it had be flashed before. They’ll just blame it on that, unless there cool with it. Try to find a good shop that will look at it.

 

[dn1984]

The chances are pretty slim to get warranty work done on a e85 tuned car... I brought my car in for a trans issue and they checked to see if it had be flashed before. They’ll just blame it on that, unless there cool with it. Try to find a good shop that will look at it.

Thought they can only see when it was last reflashed and how many times? I can just tell them I had a CEL come on that I cleared, or that I changed my battery (which I actually did)

 

[4leghorse]

Thought they can only see when it was last reflashed and how many times? I can just tell them I had a CEL come on that I cleared, or that I changed my battery (which I actually did)

Nah I think when it’s flashed it resets the key cycles or something along those lines. But obviously if they ask it’s “stock” but best case scenario it’s covered worse case you’ve got to take it to a shop. For peace of mind though I wouldn’t tell myself “I’ll 100% have it covered under warranty”. Every dealership is different though

 

[dn1984]

Nah I think when it’s flashed it resets the key cycles or something along those lines. But obviously if they ask it’s “stock” but best case scenario it’s covered worse case you’ve got to take it to a shop. For peace of mind though I wouldn’t tell myself “I’ll 100% have it covered under warranty”. Every dealership is different though

Yeah for sure. The key check is something that can also be explained with a battery change or CEL clear too I think

 

[4leghorse]

Yeah for sure. The key check is something that can also be explained with a battery change or CEL clear too I think

Keep us posted how it goes though. All the luck

 

[dn1984]

Keep us posted how it goes though. All the luck

thank you. i think i'm going to stick to the plan of driving it easy until i can switch back to the stock tune. then i will drive maybe 1000 miles on the stock tune then will push it hard to try to replicate the problem. if still present then it wasn't a fluke and i will take it to the dealer and try to get it fixed under warranty

 

[battleship]

i wonder if the 10r80s run hotter. 200 for me is right in the middle when i pull up the gauge view. always been like that

this is correct. the 10r80 runs hotter than most automatic transmissions and this is considered normal. this is the same reason that you can only run the motorcraft ULV fluid in the `10r80. it's very thin and designed to run hotter. I see 200 all the time and I have the max tow package with the upgraded trans cooler.

what some of F150 guys have been doing is to enlarge the hole on the filter. I cut a 3x3 square in mine. under head load and accel it allows more fluid to be pulled in and not starve it.

 

[battleship]

Got a weird problem. I'm on AED's E85 tune (well right now on the flex after having the issue) so I have very high pressure shifts in S mode. I was in Mexico the other day and did a couple back to back runs against a bike from about 60-140. On the second run I noticed it slipped or hung when shifting into I think 6th gear for a couple seconds. So I left off and slowed down to cruising speed, checked transmission temp and it was about 205 which is normal. Didn't think anything of it.

Fast forward to later that night and I was still in Mexico but this time against a 5th gen heads/cam Camaro SS. This time I did 3 back to back runs around the same speeds and again got the delayed shift on the last one. Once again, slowed down to 70 and cruised on the highway for about a mile then checked my trans temp and it was 235! So it had to have been even higher since that's what it cooled down to after some cruising.

Put the shifter in D and normal mode, drove normally back home and noticed it was slipping between some gears (still pretty hot but cooled down to around 215-220). Pulled in my garage and I noticed the smell of burning oil. Lo and behold there was some transmission fluid dripping underneath, and it was spread over the exhaust like something had blown and shot fluid. I checked everything and couldn't figure out where it was leaking from, and no lines were obviously blown off.

Parked it overnight, and came out the next morning and there was no fluid on the ground. So I loaded my flex tune and have been driving around in normal mode and shifter in D, taking it easy, just going to work and back as I transition back to gasoline (have about 12 gallons of 91 now) and it has been shifting normal, with trans temps getting no higher than 194-199 when full warmed up which is where it always was before. I don't see any signs of fluid leakage.

I'm going to load the stock tune back in when I get a full tank of gas and probably take it to the dealership to have them look at it under warranty. But, do I definitely have some kind of damage? Or can something like this happen on rare occasions where the fluid heats up and sprays out of some overflow tube or something if the trans temp gets really high?

I don't want to push it to try to replicate that leak again, at risk of causing a bigger problem. At least not until I'm on the stock tune and if something happens I can just have it towed to the dealer for warranty work.

this was an issue with the Ford lightnings as well. the transmission would get so hot the that the input shaft seal would swell just enough to leak fluid out, when the trans cooled, no more leaks. it's unknown to me if the 10r80 has the same issue. 235 is pretty hot, but not completely out in left field. like others have stated, drop the pan, perform a visual inspection and see. if the fluid smells burnt you'll know. don't go off of color because it can be very dark but still be ok. also look for debris in the pan. small bits are ok, but if you see chunks or if it looks like someone pour sand in the bottom of the pan you are due for a build.

 

[dn1984]

this was an issue with the Ford lightnings as well. the transmission would get so hot the that the input shaft seal would swell just enough to leak fluid out, when the trans cooled, no more leaks. it's unknown to me if the 10r80 has the same issue. 235 is pretty hot, but not completely out in left field. like others have stated, drop the pan, perform a visual inspection and see. if the fluid smells burnt you'll know. don't go off of color because it can be very dark but still be ok. also look for debris in the pan. small bits are ok, but if you see chunks or if it looks like someone pour sand in the bottom of the pan you are due for a build.

what if the fluid is still a nice red and not completely burnt looking? the fluid itself when it was leaking didn't look bad at all

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