To upgrade or not?

articrandom · Jun 7, 2018

Back in October I purchased an 15 Premium Eco with 25k miles for $18K. It has treated me really well and it currently sits at 36.5k miles.

I have been really happy with it until the past 4-5k miles, and here is why:

1. My AC went out just over 300 miles and now I am not sure if Ford is going to warrant the system. Dealer is going to diagnose it next week and go from there...

2. Engine has been off for awhile. It seems sluggish, like slow and I feel like it does not have enough power most of the time. I would love to take it to a dyno and see how it does. Here are the issues it is having:

2a. Not enough pick up and go at mergers, anything past 70-80mph the car is mostly like my old 1.5 Fusion accelarating.

2b. Cylinder 4 misfire light came up and I cleared it and has not come back again but why did it come up?? Spark plug was replaced prior to that and it was working and looked fine.

2c. I get some weird shaking sound from the engine and coming out of the exhaust at a start up sometimes... it goes away after 10-20 seconds.

2d. Car has been having issues (which were mostly fixed by replacing the fuel pressure sensor) at accelerating from like 20mph to like 60ishmph. Car would hesitate at around 3k RPMs, the RPM gauge would shake like not wanting to go, and after it finally gets over 4k RPMs, car would go just fine. This does not happen as often as before but I still get it every other couple of weeks. Also, related to this problem, as the car is struggling to get past 4k RPMs, I hear some pop noises from the engine bay.

Other than those issues, car is great. I have driven it in the winter and it has been a champ.

I am considering upgrading to a 15-17 GT or a new Eco if the AC thing doesn't get fixed and if the engine issues get overlooked by the typical excuses (it works as intended, can't replicate the issue and such...)

Is it a smart move? In my area used GTs ($28-$32k) are almost as expensive as a brand new base GT ($30k32k) and some Ecos (mixed of 15-16 base and premium with like 17k-30k miles) are going for like $20-26k. For that price I can get on a brand new base Eco.

jasonstang · Jun 7, 2018

You are probably not gaining much to go to an ECO. GT now is worth the extra.

Rodimus_Prime · Jun 7, 2018

15-17gts are a much better buy than the 2018s the 2018s have a multitude of tranny issues especially the manual ones

keep in mind you will also likely add at least 10k onto whatever you owe presently on the ecoboost

Some things to consider and you might not hear this from most GT owners like myself, If I had to do it over again I likely would have got the ecoboost, the gas, the insurance, price of the car itself, all more expensive with the gt

Handling isnt better on the gt and its performance in rain or snow is diminished also due to the weight distribution not being as good. That isnt important to everyone if its not a daily driver or they live in the northeast where I do.

I had a 13 V6 premium and my 17 GT is an improvement in almost every way but it is alot more expensive to live with

320guy · Jun 7, 2018

For 2018 model, get a ecoboost. For 15-17, get a GT and honestly you should be looking to buy a new car, used Performance cars like mustang are beat up. Your new car, you treat it how you want, you have full warranty and peace of mind.

But I understand, not everybody can afford a new car.

articrandom · Jun 7, 2018

My Eco is paid off so no money owed to worry about. I like the Eco because is cheaper and it is also my daily and since I drive over an hour (over 50 miles each day), it is nice to not have to be at the pump every other day.

I am lining towards a new 18 Eco, base that I can upgrade, and just make a deal with the dealer if they refuse to have Ford pay for the AC replacement. But not sure about anything yet...

tranceporter · Jun 7, 2018

320guy said:
For 15-17, get a GT and honestly you should be looking to buy a new car, used Performance cars like mustang are beat up.

That's a big generalization. I've bought two used performance cars and both were pristine.

tranceporter · Jun 7, 2018

articrandom said:
My Eco is paid off so no money owed to worry about. I like the Eco because is cheaper and it is also my daily and since I drive over an hour (over 50 miles each day), it is nice to not have to be at the pump every other day.

I am lining towards a new 18 Eco, base that I can upgrade, and just make a deal with the dealer if they refuse to have Ford pay for the AC replacement. But not sure about anything yet...

I'm wishing you the best but chances are they won't replace it even if it is just a couple hundred miles over the 36k.

Shouldhavegotthegt · Jun 7, 2018

tranceporter said:
That's a big generalization. I've bought two used performance cars and both were pristine.

Agreed. I’d stay away from used, modded mustangs. Those could have been beat up on. I’d buy a bone stock one though. Chances are they just drove it.

w3rkn · Jun 7, 2018

articrandom said:
Back in October I purchased an 15 Premium Eco with 25k miles for $18K. It has treated me really well and it currently sits at 36.5k miles.

I have been really happy with it until the past 4-5k miles, and here is why:

1. My AC went out just over 300 miles and now I am not sure if Ford is going to warrant the system. Dealer is going to diagnose it next week and go from there...

2. Engine has been off for awhile. It seems sluggish, like slow and I feel like it does not have enough power most of the time. I would love to take it to a dyno and see how it does. Here are the issues it is having:

2a. Not enough pick up and go at mergers, anything past 70-80mph the car is mostly like my old 1.5 Fusion accelarating.

2b. Cylinder 4 misfire light came up and I cleared it and has not come back again but why did it come up?? Spark plug was replaced prior to that and it was working and looked fine.

2c. I get some weird shaking sound from the engine and coming out of the exhaust at a start up sometimes... it goes away after 10-20 seconds.

2d. Car has been having issues (which were mostly fixed by replacing the fuel pressure sensor) at accelerating from like 20mph to like 60ishmph. Car would hesitate at around 3k RPMs, the RPM gauge would shake like not wanting to go, and after it finally gets over 4k RPMs, car would go just fine. This does not happen as often as before but I still get it every other couple of weeks. Also, related to this problem, as the car is struggling to get past 4k RPMs, I hear some pop noises from the engine bay.

Other than those issues, car is great. I have driven it in the winter and it has been a champ.

I am considering upgrading to a 15-17 GT or a new Eco if the AC thing doesn't get fixed and if the engine issues get overlooked by the typical excuses (it works as intended, can't replicate the issue and such...)

Is it a smart move? In my area used GTs ($28-$32k) are almost as expensive as a brand new base GT ($30k32k) and some Ecos (mixed of 15-16 base and premium with like 17k-30k miles) are going for like $20-26k. For that price I can get on a brand new base Eco.

Have you been living with all those problems (detailed in your post) and not minding them..? It sounds like your engine has had problems a while, & been into the dealer a few times for it..?

Just get your engine fixed, the EB should pull at 70MPH. It shouldn't stutter, or hesitate or do anything other than pull.

Also, remember buying a pre-owned, means you buy the last owners problems.

RayJHT · Jun 7, 2018

These cars used are not always beat up. Actually a lot of guys treat them like they are Ferrari's and make them garage queens. You just have to choose the right car used....V8....16-17 not 15 because they have the a/c issues. I would not go 18 because of the cost increase. Buy used if you can from a individual with records. I always say these guys save them so that someone else can enjoy them at a discount. Used cars are not always sold because of issues. Some people buy the hype and need the upgraded version.

Bull Run · Jun 7, 2018

articrandom said:
2a. Not enough pick up and go at mergers, anything past 70-80mph the car is mostly like my old 1.5 Fusion accelarating.

2b. Cylinder 4 misfire light came up and I cleared it and has not come back again but why did it come up?? Spark plug was replaced prior to that and it was working and looked fine.

2c. I get some weird shaking sound from the engine and coming out of the exhaust at a start up sometimes... it goes away after 10-20 seconds.

2d. Car has been having issues (which were mostly fixed by replacing the fuel pressure sensor) at accelerating from like 20mph to like 60ishmph. Car would hesitate at around 3k RPMs, the RPM gauge would shake like not wanting to go, and after it finally gets over 4k RPMs, car would go just fine. This does not happen as often as before but I still get it every other couple of weeks. Also, related to this problem, as the car is struggling to get past 4k RPMs, I hear some pop noises from the engine bay.

I had high RPM misfire issues that was resolved after regapping the plugs. Did you check the gap on your plugs? If so, what are they?

tranceporter · Jun 7, 2018

RayJHT said:
16-17 not 15 because they have the a/c issues.

All Mustangs from 2015-2017 were built with same faulty AC evaporator. It wasnt fixed in 2016. Mine failed at 12k miles last month.

bluebeastsrt · Jun 7, 2018

did you mod the car? Did you check for boast leaks? Did you try moving the coil pack to a different cylinder? And see if the misfire follows the coul pack?

articrandom · Jun 7, 2018

Bull Run said:
I had high RPM misfire issues that was resolved after regapping the plugs. Did you check the gap on your plugs? If so, what are they?

Yeah, plugs are gapped at 0.28

bluebeastsrt said:
did you mod the car? Did you check for boast leaks? Did you try moving the coil pack to a different cylinder? And see if the misfire follows the coul pack?

Did not do anything as the code has not come back after I cleared it. What exactly do I need to check for Boost leaks?

The only mod is a Levels intercooler. I know previous owner had it modded with a tune but it has not been tuned since 24k miles.

w3rkn said:
Have you been living with all those problems (detailed in your post) and not minding them..? It sounds like your engine has had problems a while, & been into the dealer a few times for it..?

Just get your engine fixed, the EB should pull at 70MPH. It shouldn't stutter, or hesitate or do anything other than pull.

Also, remember buying a pre-owned, means you buy the last owners problems.

I do mind them but it is really hard to replicate them after driving 10 minutes or more. Some of the issues are really specific or only happen some times after a cold start. Dealer is not going to do crap unless they see it themselves, and even then, they may even tell you it is normal operation.

It pulls but I feel like I always trails behind or does not pull like a Mustang. I guess I will have to drive a brand new one to see if I can feel a noticeable difference.

I found a base 17 eco with PP -auto- for $22k new. Is that a good deal? Otherwise I am looking at $24.5 for a bone stock 18 eco with a 10spd

bluebeastsrt · Jun 7, 2018

articrandom said:
Yeah, plugs are gapped at 0.28

Did not do anything as the code has not come back after I cleared it. What exactly do I need to check for Boost leaks?

The only mod is a Levels intercooler. I know previous owner had it modded with a tune but it has not been tuned since 24k.

Do a quick search on youtube on how to test for boost leaks. That could be the possible loss of power your describing. Its pretty common with turbo cars. Id start at that aftermarket intercooler.

To upgrade or not?

articrandom

Well-Known Member

jasonstang

Well-Known Member

Rodimus_Prime

Member

320guy

Well-Known Member

articrandom

Well-Known Member

tranceporter

Well-Known Member

tranceporter

Well-Known Member

Shouldhavegotthegt

Well-Known Member

w3rkn

Well-Known Member

RayJHT

Well-Known Member

Bull Run

Well-Known Member

tranceporter

Well-Known Member

bluebeastsrt

Oh boy

articrandom

Well-Known Member

bluebeastsrt

Oh boy