17 GT350 Recommended Road Course Alignment (Possible without CC Plates?)

I broke down and bought the Vorshlag CC plates

Very easy to install. I didn't end up having to take the brake caliper off either like most of the videos/instructions Rented a spring compressor and had both sides done in about 2.5 hours. They make no noise at all and are really high quality.

Also installed the ford performance air oil separators. That only takes about 30 minutes. All I have left to install is the Steeda rear camber adjusters and the ZL1 addons tow hook. I was also able to get the takeoff slicks (Pirelli Pzero DH) mounted and balanced on the P51's and test fitted. First round they didn't put the wheel weights in the right spot on the barrel so I had to take the fronts back and have them redo the placement. All good now!

I have been using the QuickTrick Extreme alignment tool and am very happy with it so far. I used it on a few cars so far and it seems to work great. It's not a professional alignment but damn close.

My first event is 4/21 at Putnam Park Road Course. Looking forward to some track time! I have some how-to-videos coming but im really far behind editing the video and will probably just make one long video with all the installs.

This will be last post/update until after the event but if you guys are interested, check out my Instagram page. I keep it more up-to-date with the latest.

https://www.instagram.com/shomepower/

So I had the same question re: adjusting toe every time you change camber settings with aftermarket plates, so I reached out to Vorschlag to confirm whether or not the toe gets thrown out of whack. Vorschlag's response:

"For alignments, our customers that change settings for the track typically get a street alignment and mark the camber plates so they can return to those settings. Then at the track they will put in a lot of negative camber, which automatically adds some toe-out. When it's time to go home, they just return the camber to the marked settings."

And I second that if you are driving the car at or near its limits, especially with slicks or R-compounds, the more camber, the better. I was able to get -3.7 front on my last street car set up with a racing suspension, and it made a big difference in grip and tire wear on slicks. Hoping for -3+ for the GT350.

tracktardicus said:

So I had the same question re: adjusting toe every time you change camber settings with aftermarket plates, so I reached out to Vorschlag to confirm whether or not the toe gets thrown out of whack. Vorschlag's response:

"For alignments, our customers that change settings for the track typically get a street alignment and mark the camber plates so they can return to those settings. Then at the track they will put in a lot of negative camber, which automatically adds some toe-out. When it's time to go home, they just return the camber to the marked settings."

And I second that if you are driving the car at or near its limits, especially with slicks or R-compounds, the more camber, the better. I was able to get -3.7 front on my last street car set up with a racing suspension, and it made a big difference in grip and tire wear on slicks. Hoping for -3+ for the GT350.

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Good stuff! I did the same a few months ago and Vorshlag told me the same thing. Since everything is stock suspension wise the vorshlag plates in there least camber setting is right around -1.1 it -1 which is the factory camber spec. I measured toe and it was the same as before I installed the plates. My plan just like they mention is to max out the camber at the track. However from what they told me the most you can get on the gt350 and maybe all s550 is -2.5. If you want more you have to drill out elongate the strut tower hole. I’m not there yet and can’t bring myself to do that. So I’m gonna max it out and see what happens on track. I guess you could use the crash bolts in addition to the plates to get more negative camber but I didn’t want to do that either. I will let you know how it goes.

tracktardicus said:

So I had the same question re: adjusting toe every time you change camber settings with aftermarket plates, so I reached out to Vorschlag to confirm whether or not the toe gets thrown out of whack. Vorschlag's response:

"For alignments, our customers that change settings for the track typically get a street alignment and mark the camber plates so they can return to those settings. Then at the track they will put in a lot of negative camber, which automatically adds some toe-out. When it's time to go home, they just return the camber to the marked settings."

And I second that if you are driving the car at or near its limits, especially with slicks or R-compounds, the more camber, the better. I was able to get -3.7 front on my last street car set up with a racing suspension, and it made a big difference in grip and tire wear on slicks. Hoping for -3+ for the GT350.

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I have an R and only drive to and from the track. I have Vorshlag plates up front running -3 degrees without having to drill out the strut tower hole but it is right on the edge. I am running - 3 in the rear without any additional parts - stock. Local race shop set the car up for me.

tlisotta said:

I have an R and only drive to and from the track. I have Vorshlag plates up front running -3 degrees without having to drill out the strut tower hole but it is right on the edge. I am running - 3 in the rear without any additional parts - stock. Local race shop set the car up for me.

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Heck yeah! That’s great news! I’m going to check mine next weekend and see how much I can get. Thanks for the feedback!

ShiftPoint said:

Heck yeah! That’s great news! I’m going to check mine next weekend and see how much I can get. Thanks for the feedback!

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Welcome

tlisotta said:

I have an R and only drive to and from the track. I have Vorshlag plates up front running -3 degrees without having to drill out the strut tower hole but it is right on the edge. I am running - 3 in the rear without any additional parts - stock. Local race shop set the car up for me.

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Yup, I think -3 is about max you can get without messing with the strut tower hole. Mine is at -2.7 and there's just a little bit of room to go.

tracktardicus said:

So I had the same question re: adjusting toe every time you change camber settings with aftermarket plates, so I reached out to Vorschlag to confirm whether or not the toe gets thrown out of whack. Vorschlag's response:

"For alignments, our customers that change settings for the track typically get a street alignment and mark the camber plates so they can return to those settings. Then at the track they will put in a lot of negative camber, which automatically adds some toe-out. When it's time to go home, they just return the camber to the marked settings."

And I second that if you are driving the car at or near its limits, especially with slicks or R-compounds, the more camber, the better. I was able to get -3.7 front on my last street car set up with a racing suspension, and it made a big difference in grip and tire wear on slicks. Hoping for -3+ for the GT350.

Click to expand...

Without adjusting toe you will always have a compromise. You adjust Camber then toe as the toe is always affected. Learned my lesson and why I have life time alignments. This way it is exactly how I want it no compromises.

Zitrosounds said:

Without adjusting toe you will always have a compromise. You adjust Camber then toe as the toe is always affected. Learned my lesson and why I have life time alignments. This way it is exactly how I want it no compromises.

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Where are we able to find a lifetime alignments deal that isn't just for factory specs? Do you mean the weekend before going to the track, you can take it to the shop and ask them to align it to your track specs, then come home and ask them to align it back to street?

Demonic said:

Where are we able to find a lifetime alignments deal that isn't just for factory specs? Do you mean the weekend before going to the track, you can take it to the shop and ask them to align it to your track specs, then come home and ask them to align it back to street?

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I have a local reputable Firestone shop that does the work for me. First I ever met John, the tech, I established a rapport and also gave him 40 gift card. The man will set the car up however I want now. Having said that, the first Firestone I went to would only set up the alignment per FP specs if I signed a waiver and the store manager approved. Once I got the R I stopped using them as they did not have a touch-less machine and would not service the CF wheels. My Firestone shop has a reputation for working on high end wheels and custom one off wheels. In fact they have pictures of the cars they have serviced. One Corvette in particular had 10k wheels on each corner, all custom. Shop around, talk to the tech, buy him/her lunch and you would be surprised the gratitude that is expressed.

Edit: I set up an appointment prior to the track date and do the same for afterwards. The car is too darty on anything past -1.7 camber and way to annoying to drive on the street. Tried it, didn't like it so R OEM alignment specs for street and FP specs or more for the track. Additionally, I also tried adjusting just camber with a fixed toe setting and all I can say it was no bueno.

Just found my 1st track alignment for the R. From -1.2 adjusted to -2.0 camber and hit the shop. My camber adjustment per the machine was spot on. The toe was now -.52 total from the OEM .20+/-. Individual the toe was .6/.7 with -1.2 camber, then with -2.0 camber -.25/-.27. That is to much toe out.

Zitrosounds said:

...The toe was now -.52 total from the OEM .20+/-. Individual the toe was .6/.7 with -1.2 camber, then with -2.0 camber -.25/-.27. That is to much toe out.

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Were those toe measurements in degrees, inches or millimeters?

JAJ said:

Were those toe measurements in degrees, inches or millimeters?

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Degrees

That's an awful lot of toe out for track use. That's too bad, some cars manage that a bit better with their geometry. I've just been dailying on my track alignment. Ridiculous amounts of tramlining on the PSS and even worse on the Cup 2s. Put RE-71Rs on for autocross use and the tramlining nearly goes away.

Something about the Michelins causes them to be super susceptible to tramlining.

DocWalt said:

That's an awful lot of toe out for track use. That's too bad, some cars manage that a bit better with their geometry. I've just been dailying on my track alignment. Ridiculous amounts of tramlining on the PSS and even worse on the Cup 2s. Put RE-71Rs on for autocross use and the tramlining nearly goes away.

Something about the Michelins causes them to be super susceptible to tramlining.

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I'm curious everyone's opinion on toe out for the GT350 for track use. if -0.52 (think you meant, +0.52 total) is a bit too much what do you tell the shop to set it at?

Also assuming you don't touch the toe from the factory, you install CC plates, and max the camber out, the toe should go positive or toe out. I'm wondering if anyone reading this has tried it on track and can comment on tire wear.

Just curious. My old car a 2000 GT I'm pretty sure I had way too much toe out and ended up cording the insides of the fronts pretty quick.