Search results

I agree, full soft is the correct starting point, not half way.

Of course M4 is better in almost every category except maybe reliability. It costs twice as much, it should be better. I will happily have a M4 if it is only 50% more expensive.

I have the GT, but I can totally see the point of EB, cheaper, lighter, sufficient power, better mpg. Having said that, I have never driven a EB. I heard that the turbo lag is a little bothering in city drive. Maybe I will appreciate my GT more if I could compare it with a EB.

This is a very brilliant list. How much difference do you think I would feel if I upgrade gt non-pp sway bars to gt pp sway bars? I already have Eibach pro-kit, Koni and some chassis stiffing. Thanks!

Thanks for explaining. I have the pro-kit, and I don't really notice scraping. Maybe it still scrapes a bit just I didn't know. Need to take a look some time.

What's with installing the Steeda brace on a lowered car? I lowered the car after installing the Steeda brace. I am interested to know if BMR brace provides better stiffening than Steeda's offering.

Bump, price drop to $170.

Which Eibach? I have the pro-kit and it feels quite comfortable for DD when the Koni is set at about 1/3 turn from the softest. 1 turn from the softest is quite stiff for me. Cannot speak for the sportline though, I heard it's quite harsher than pro-kit.

That's fair, I see your point that ppl from that era had the choice and chose to not wear since then. Still, the benefit far outweighs the slight inconvenince, specially for those aforementioned ppl who have passed their physical prime and need extra protection.

I don't see how such a question worths asking...

I think non-pp GT is the better compromise for DD. If you break down all the differences between non-pp and pp, it is not clearly cut as which one is more suitable for everyone. It's all about personal preference. If you plan to mod your car but still use car mostly as DD, I would say non-pp...

You may even want to consider 3.31, going from 3.73 to 3.55 is quite marginal I would imagine.

I ordered it last week and had it installed yesterday. The installation is not easy, mostly because the bolt nut on the firewall is hard to reach. There's very little space there, it took my 30 mins to take off the nut with a 10mm small wrench. Unless you have deep 10mm socket, a small enough...

I guess most square setup uses 4 identical wheels, myself included. It works perfectly. No one wants to remount the tires for rotating them.

I said very clearly "ON TRACK" from the very beginning, you deliberately ignored it and now accusing me having comprehending issue? Good double standard, carry on plz.

There are also many ppl who didn't opt for PP. I am just saying the short gearing is not ideal for some of us, and it is one of the reasons ppl didn't choose PP. If you are arguing that everyone should love 3.73, then so be it.

Why didn't you also bold "on track"? This is the whole point that keeping it in the powerband mostly matters on track. Do you often drive near the peak horsepower on the street? To me, 95% is about keeping up with Civics and highway driving. Maybe I wish for a shorter gearing a few times every...

Each one has its own preference for the gearing due to how the car is used, what so hard to understand? Mine is 95% DD +5% weekend canyon warrior. Constantly skipping gears is different from skipping gears from now and then. I also skip gears some times even with the 3.31. Highway ramp 3rd...

If you buy the PP and enjoy using all the gears, that's good for you. If you buy the PP and have to constantly skip gears, that's simply a poor choice of gearing. It's just unforunate that you don't enjoy/benefit from every single change brought by the PP. The rest of the PP is still brilliant.