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Depends on your goals. If you want to do fully-active fronts with time alignment for each speaker, you'd have to have 6 channels for the front left and right (tweeter x 2, midrange x 2, woofer x 2) plus center, plus sub. From what I've seen online, on a DSR1, people usually use two channels on...

I wasn't sure if the base model, non-SYNC3 radio had the same type of ACM as the SYNC3 does. With SYNC3, I knew it was just an ACM swap. Is that still the case with a base model radio?

So post-firmware update, are folks generally happy with the DSR1, or are there still issues that would direct you away from it for running active 3-way up front, no rears, no center, plus a sub?

DSR1 is not an amplifier. It gives you preamp output. You have to have an aftermarket amplifier if you want to use a DSR1.

The DSR1 takes the low-level signal and makes adjustments to that before its adjusted output signal gets sent to the external amplifier - in your case, the Audison. The Audison then amplifies that signal and outputs a "high-level" amplified signal to the speakers through the speaker wires. If...

What factory system do you have? Is your car a premium? If it's a premium, you'll need a different T-harness than if it's a non-premium. If your fronts have the tweeter in the A pillar and a 3.5" in the upper door and 6.5" in the lower door, then you have a premium with either 9 or 12...

This thread is what I immediately thought of: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-custom-audio-build.29714/ ForTehNguyen put 7" Daytons in that spot, so I figured the 6.5" would fit, but those 7" are only 3.19" deep.

I use a 128gb flash drive and it works fine.

Why not just do an add-a-fuse? Check here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-fuse-taps-to-use.48038/

I read through this whole thread hoping to find the "results" that @DanielLD promised. Did I miss them?

Check out an AudioControl DM-810. It's 8-channel input, 10-channel output.

Great to hear that this harness works for the 9-speaker system!

No, not yet. I'm slooooowwww on projects. Just too much going on. Still considering it, though. If you go that route, please let us know how well it works.

Excellent. Thank you. I will eventually tap upstream of the factory amp in my Mustang - this LOC setup would just be temporary until I get the time to do it right. I'll have to experiment in the other car, if I opt to do upgrades to it.

I tried to post this question at DIYMA, but I'm a noob over there and the post has to be approved by an admin, so I'm not sure if it'll get posted. My question is on how a LOC works when wiring it up. Typically, people use them to tap speaker wires to grab signal for a subwoofer, and in most...

This got kind of lengthy, but bear with me. The LC2i is not really a DSP. It's a high-quality line-out converter that takes in speaker level signal and outputs line-level signal to feed into amps. It has some bass restoration capability that helps to defeat bass roll-off. Bass roll-off is...

Should work in either port. At least that's my experience.

My biggest complaint right now is that I can't do Sync voice commands when my iphone is plugged in and I'm running Carplay. I wish there was a button I could press to trigger the Sync voice prompt separately from Siri.

I play mp3 and flac files from a USB stick on a daily basis with my Sync 3. It's worth noting that the file structure isn't really read. Sync reads the ID3 tags in your music to set up albums & artists. So if you have a file structure for sorting, but your ID3 tags aren't in good shape, you...

You can run without rears, without problem. If you want rears, you can run the fronts passive, you just can't get the level of time correction that you can if you run active. You could still use it to EQ the speakers and whatnot.