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I just installed the shock mounts 2 days ago, and I can feel the rear suspension has larger articulations than before. This is especially obvious when going over speed bumps. The rear end used to make a rubbery noise due to the possibly binding, now it is totally gone. Also the impact is...

My current setup has the same drop, and I also scrap the front occasionally, although I think it's mostly the wind deflator under the front chin, not the chin itself.

I just received my springs recently, and I noticed that part of the rear springs are warpped by pastic, did you take it off before installation? Also have you measured the drop? It should be about 1.2 inch in front and 1 inch in rear.

Where did you get the o-ring that holds the bumpstop? I am going to install the same setup soon.

pro-kit bumpstops appear to be shorter, IIRC. I would assume that you don't need to trim the pro-kit bumpstops. I did not. OEM ones, maybe an inch or so? There are other threads talking abou this.

I am selling my pro-kit shortly.. These springs come with 1 million miles warrenty, which means they are pretty much un-wearable. Make sure you have the bumpstops that come with the springs.

Order placed for the progressive springs, bump stop and rear shock mount!

I have seen your replies in other threads and I am considering doing the same. The Eibach pro-kit might be too firm for bumpy road, but I want to make sure the end result is what I am hoping for before I actually do anything. Changing the springs is no easy job with only hand tools, last time it...

Greatly appreciated! Just between spring and shocks, how much does the spring contribute to the ride comfort, 70-80% I assume? I want to retain my Konis since they are fairly new, but I want to make sure it's not the Konis that contributes most to the harsh ride.

I have the Eibach pro-kit with Koni adjustable. Will the Steeda progressive spring be much more comfortable than the pro-kit?

Does any one know how much quieter is the conti DWS06 compared to conti DW?

^^^This is so obvious I cannot believe it has to be repeated several time for someone to understand.

I don't know if anyone has discussed this, but I wonder if PP, magride and 10-speed auto can be had together. I heard that the magride can only be added if you opt for PP, which cannot be ordered with the auto for all 15-17 models. I don't know if Ford has changed this rule.

This is good evidence. I assume the difference between 87 and 91 octane is similar to that between 87 and 93 considering how close it is between 91 and 93 from the first chart. This means about ~10-20 ft-lb torque between 2500-5000. Not too small a difference.

SAVING is the wrong word, it means you have to give up something in exchange for the extra a few hundred $ every year. There's literally no performance different for DD, so you do not really give up anything. NOT WASTING is more appropriate. If I can feel a difference, or if there's any...

This is pretty convincing. "When premium fuel is merely recommended, there is no reason to use it instead of regular, according to Jake Fisher, Consumer Reports’ director of auto testing. In its own experiments, Consumer Reports found that vehicles that “recommended” premium did not increase...

87 octane will not damage the car in anyway, period. Anyone think otherwise is fooling himself. It is only a matter of if there's discernible performance difference and whether you are willing to pay for that performance difference. IF there's almost zero performance difference in DD, it is...

^^ Correct. Top tier only refers to the gas station brands, not the octane rating.

Please leave it scientific. I have running 87 and 91 each for half a year, and I cannot tell a difference for DD. My car hasn't been tuned. And also leave the expensive-car-financial-issue crap out of this. GT is hardly expensive by any means, just an attractive affordable fast coupe, that's all.

Mustang GT has a weight/hp ratio of 3750/435=8.62 lb/hp. Dodge Challenger scat pack = 4250/485 = 8.76 lb/hp. How come scat pack is faster? low-end torque?