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I know this post is from a few days ago, but catching up the old CarPro sprayers triggered me. They were so bad.

HB1 in the above diagram is W719298-S439. I have swapped my driveshaft and replaced these bolts. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mikes-guard-gt.202816/#post-4062537

Definitely sounds more like an Ech2o competitor like you said. I think I prefer a concentrate more like Hero or ONR that doesn't have SiO2 in it. I still grab Ech2o for door jambs and stuff like that, but once this bottle's out will probably just stick to Hero.

It sounds like you did fine applying the coating. IMO neither C5 nor ADS Wheel are complicated or difficult to apply. The easiest place to make a mistake is missing or not leveling in small divots or grooves. Just going over areas like that an extra time when applying and buffing is the easiest...

I assume you’re referring to the recommended extra buffing step on Reload? It didn’t really feel like a big lift because I go over the panel again while I’m drying anyway. I’ll grab a bigger bottle of Reload on BF then. A little does go a really long way with it though!

Yes. The Ecoboost did not change until the S650 in 2024. I am referring to any standard Ecoboost not the HPP version with the larger turbo. I'd suggest getting a 2021+ motor or at least one with the newer designed head gasket.

I've used Hero as both a clay lube and a quick detailer. Seems to have tons of lubricity and will last a long time for those purposes. I bet it works great for rinseless with how slick it is also. I am curious how ADS Ceramic compares to CarPro Reload 2.0 if used as a drying aid. Last wash on...

They are 12Nm + 35 degrees Fuel Rail is 10Nm + 90 degrees

Here is mine on the same side for comparison. Maybe I'm missing something in your pic, but I just see a bit of wear on the camshaft. Your cam phasers aren't looking so great though.

I agree. I would dump them. I rabbit holed this because I put S650 seats on my S550. I get wanting a somewhat unique seat choice. Just don't forget that your time has value also.

The two larger plastic harness like connectors you posted would have wires on the back if they were cut. There are lots of the harnesses on eBay. I personally bought a fully intact seat bottom to make sure I was getting everything I needed. The easiest way to avoid this is just to make sure the...

I used C5 wheel armour. I got about 2 years from a tracked but garage kept car. Applying small bottle coating like C5 or ADS wheel and then using PH neutral soap like Reset to clean them is an acceptable plan. Once my wheels were coated, I never had to use anything beyond Reset.

I've done some seat work and understand the wiring harness configuration. These are normal S550 Ecoboost seats. I don't see a wiring harness on the pictures you posted, nor the buckle latch. Looks like you bought seats without wiring harnesses.

This sent me down the right path, thanks! https://www.improvedracing.com/an-male-flare-to-quick-connect-female-screw-adapter.html

Does anyone know what kind of fittings are on the OEM 350/Mach/DH diff cooler? Referring to what would be required to connect to the in and out as they are clearly not AN. They almost look like a type of quick disconnect.

They're the FP catch cans both L and R. I think my game plan is to run another test in the Spring, and send samples to both Blackstone and SPEEDiagnostix. I might wait until after my first track day so it has some harder use on it. I can take the sample w/o changing the oil.

They do not. No lead in your car’s history it seems. The vibe I’m getting is different testers use different methods unfortunately.

Yep I do have catch cans on both sides, that could do it?

I have owned the car since new. The engine has the FP power pack 3, FP aluminum cam covers, and the FP VCT solenoids.

This oil went five days and some street miles and held up well based on the bottom portion of the report. The oil monitor never hit 0. I’m definitely not as fast as you then.