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I know you specifically asked about a PD blower, but I went TT on my Mach 1, and it has been great. I'm still on my stock clutch, even after a full season last year that involved the drag strip, road course, and roll racing. I think a lot of that is being able to control the boost on the fly...

I've not had any issues. The turbos and oil tanks aren't the lowest components. If the front splitter clears, you're good.

Follow up, one year later: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-mach-1-today.171200/post-4504914

I went back to the dyno, to see how much HP my exhaust modifications (to make it quieter) cost me. The answer was, between 30 and 40. The original setup had my wastegates dump to atmosphere, which was like open headers as soon as boost built, as well as a 3" straight through to BMRP mufflers. I...

You can't just buy the car back for scrap, take off the parts, and then actually scrap it?

Have you separated the clutch from the master cylinder? (Search divorcing clutch from brakes) I wonder if hot brake fluid in the reservoir was making it's way to your clutch and keeping you from fully disengaging when trying to shift, hence the lockout.

A year ago I was asking similar questions, and settled on a Hellion Street Sleeper Kit. With the low mount turbos, there is no lag, but you aren't making boost until you want to. Below half throttle, the car drives like it is stock. I can change boost level on the fly, so I typically take off at...

No. I think they were picked up the day after posting.

I took it to a road course. First time for me and the car. I grew up drag racing, but this was a whole new experience. I can see how it is addicting. When you see my hand go towards the center console before the long straight, I'm bumping my boost setting up to go from 600 RWHP to 800. The clip...

The gearing is very different in the Tremec, it is road racing focused. I was very close to the top of 4th going through the traps. As I mentioned before, 5th gear is the 1:1 on the Tremec, where I believe 4th is on the D4.

What you describe is how I have my boost controller set up on my Hellion TT kit: 600, 700, 800 with a push of a button after gear changes. It's a big reason I went TT. The forward button toggles to the next set point, while the aft button returns to the low boost setting.

On my 3rd run, I tried leaving on the high boost setting at the same launch RPM: I spun as soon as I hit about 5,000 rpm. If I could have ran again that night, I was going to try lowering the tire pressure a bit. I was trapping in 4th gear. I'm going to a roll race event at another track this...

Yes, I have the Tremec. This run started at 7psi, then went to 10.

This was from my first time at the drag strip. I only got to make 3 passes. This was leaving with LC at 4300, medium boost setting. I switched to high boost in 2nd gear. Stock tire pressure, PS4 tires:

I went to the drag strip for the first time. 6 speed car, full street trim. I felt pretty good about this 60' time: [

I have the Cervini's hood. It has a lot of clearance. If you go this direction, send me a PM, I have some suggestions.

A good friend of mine works for Ford and was kind enough to get me a few diagrams. At least for the 2022 model year, the GT does still have the oil pressure control solenoid: The Mach 1 does not: Since the switch to 5W-50, my hot idle oil pressure is much better. Even with restrictors in...

I switched to 5W-50 today and the hot idle pressure is much better. The oil pressure still seems to increase exponentially in relation to RPM, but it isn't as dramatic as it was with 5W-30.

That doesn't seem to be the case on my 2022 M1.

Where/how is it turned off? I hate how low it goes when it is warm at idle.