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Before you do, I'd recommend pulling the hub from the center console and checking the connections. They're pretty weak and prone to disconnect a little, which can cause intermittent or even constant inability to receive power.

Definitely understand completely! I also played guitar in a few touring bands in my teens/twenties, so I've got some hearing issues as well. The worst part for me is I cannot read lips for some odd reason. Makes conversations awkward in loud environments like bars and clubs because I can't...

I feel like the infinity coaxs in the doors and center channel (hell, I bought the center channel from you!) gave plenty of clarity without the a-pillar tweeters connected at all. Different strokes for different folks I suppose, Rash.

I saved mine. Considering putting them up for sale in case anyone wants some new tweeters to toss in for fun. I'd probably sell the set for $25 or so and call it a day.

Definitely do! I didn't end up using the tweeters that came with the 6.5 component ones since that would be tweeter overkill and the factory tweeters are 8 ohm (the PBs are 2 ohm). Since the doors on the 12 speaker system are components, going with a component 6.5 for the midbass and 3.5 coax...

I can vouch for the Powerbass speakers. I swapped in their 6.5 components on my doors and 6.5 coaxials in the rear. Huge improvement without needing to upgrade the amp.

I have the same system. What I did to mine was swap the center channel and 3.5 door speakers with Infinity coaxials, upgraded the door and rear 6.5s to PowerBass components (door) and coaxials (rear), disconnected the a-pillar tweeters entirely and swapped out the factory sub with a Pioneer...

Happens to me occasionally. I end up rebooting the APIM and it usually fixes it.

You're telling me! I spent like 30 minutes trying to figure out how to unplug the camera (which ended up being stupidly easy once I realized how to release the plug). Unpacked the box with the @Drake Muscle Cars decklid and the left corner tip was broken clean off and laying in the box...

Welp...that was a waste. Took my decklid off, opened the box and saw that the new decklid had a piece broken off in the corner. Lesson learned: always check the replacement part BEFORE starting the work! :facepalm:

Welp...that was a waste. Took my decklid off, opened the box and saw that the new decklid had a piece broken off in the corner. Lesson learned: always check the replacement part BEFORE starting the work! :facepalm:

Got it

Fixed

Heya folks. I am in the middle of removing and replacing my decklid. I've already pried the decklid off, but I cannot seem to get the backup camera disconnected. It seems like it should unplug easily from the videos I've watched showing the process, but I can't seem to get it to unclip. Anyone...

Heya folks. I am in the middle of removing and replacing my decklid. I've already pried the decklid off, but I cannot seem to get the backup camera disconnected. It seems like it should unplug easily from the videos I've watched showing the process, but I can't seem to get it to unclip. Anyone...

Not surprised at all. Thanks for checking your wiring either way!

Unfortunately not.

That's why I was asking if I was seeing it incorrectly. It looks like it has curvature in the decklid like the Scott Drake decklid.

Are the lines of the decklid offset? Looks like they are.

I just painted my wheels satin black hyperdip this last weekend. I have a Kona blue 2018 with bright metallic green stripes from BigWorm. I'm definitely painting my calipers and the center cap ponies green to complement the color scheme of my car. G2 is sending me samples of their standard green...