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I have one but not ready to part with it yet. probably would be tricky getting it from Canada to the US.

Ive noticed alot of goofy stuff since the last tune I did back in March. I couldn't use sport mode cost down in normal. unless you came to a complete stop and waited a few seconds it felt like it was hung up in two gears (probably 1st and second) and you would definitely feel a pop when one of...

Whats your secret? everyone Ive talked to about this says they can never get the 02s or heaters to set.

You got all the IM monitors to set with de-foulers?

You might clear the CEL but I doubt you'll get the emissions to go ready. and you'll likely screw up the FAOSC.

The only thing that might need to change is the transport time for the O2s. sometimes they dont heat up fast enough with headers for the time set in the strategy so the delay needs to be set a little longer.

E85 might be the trick

It isnt easy running this new stuff. unless you are willing to revert back to the old days and hopefully not run a foul of the smog police, its difficult when it comes to modifying the exhaust system other than a cat back. The whole system is designed to protect the cats. I put the stock...

When I did headers and green cats on my 2013 Shelby GT500, I did nothing. It all worked. everything set within a few miles, no check engine lights. I tried to swap out the stock cats for the Gen 2 Green cats on the stock manifolds on my 2021. It was a bit louder and ran great. problem was it...

Maybe it depends on the year. my 2021, the fuel trims went crazy no matter which extenders I used. I could feel the engine getting sluggish. And the 02/heaters would not go complete. Engineer Mike had found ththe same.

PPF and the low profile fender guards.

Keep an eye on your fuel trims. the defoulers throw the rear O2s off. The system uses them to re calibrate the fronts as they age. you might find the trims trending rich up to 10% or more. better off to get a tuners to shut the rears off. You emissions wont go ready. With the defoulers it...

Looks like the nut broke of and the bolt beat the hell out of the cradle. looks like you need to weld a washer to it to relocate the bolt.

Actually its the coast down that has the issues. It seems sport mode is pretty much all 0 revs/second (-600 to 0) vs OSS. The way I understand it at whatever the speed change equals vs the drive shaft speed will initiate a downshift. Alot of the sport table has 0 OSS which I assume means a...

I just set th I just set the normal mode coast down table to oem. now its fine

Actually, I have sport, normal and track as well as LID set to Alt 0. Alt1 causes an intermittent flare 3-4 and sometime 4 -5. Ive modified pressure tables and inertia tables it shifts firm in all modes. using Alt2 in anything other than drag causes very harsh 1-2 shifts. it just seemed odd...

Has it always done that? does it change in different modes?

Weird stuff. I have been mucking around over the past while with the shift tables in Normal and Sport. I got it pretty good but I wanted to delay the upshift into 10th and down shift to 9th a little more. So I started playing around with the 9-10 shift area. And then I thought, why not just...

Unfortunately I think the only way out is a tune. They pooped the bed with the stock strategy. I did mine with the help of a few here on the forum. Mine is a 21. It shifts fantastic in all modes. I made sport normal and track the same. They use the same characteristics (normal) and I tweaked...

Mine stay wide open when off. As soon ad you cycle the key they go to the normal mode position. I reprogrammed the settings in PCMtech so they are always wide open unless in quiet mode. As soon as I get it out of storage I'll down load the file and see what happens