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Since were talking about my mods :) Considering a hood swap. Thoughts on these two? https://www.drivenbystyle.com/2018-2022-ford-mustang-vip-style-functional-heat-extraction-hood-vehicle-registration-card-required-95183.html This would be paint matched. Considering black for the middle to...

I like that gauge, I see it on A.M. for $450. A little pricey but I may grab one

Doesnt Raxiom make something that goes into the A/C vent?

I dont know what you mean by factory wide band? I dont have a boost gauge When I have something a little more interesting than driving between idle and 5,500 rpm, I will give an update :)

So far I really like it. Unfortunately I am not driving it enough as I only have (a little less than) 500 miles on the car in total. I'm "not allowed" to pass 5,500 RPM or so until 1,000 miles. I really am liking the 'bypass' valve in the Whipple tune. no noticeable boost until 3,500 then WHAM...

thanks! Great build! Please post some videos! Like you I want to get mine to a track (track = with turns, strip = straight line <- some people dont know this), so I need a new hood for heat extraction and would prefer the tower brace at the same time

@tj@steeda - is this strut tower brace available on your website? I have the Whipple and am looking at hood options and want to replace the strut tower. Just having trouble locating it on the site (if its there)

ok - personally like the look with the lip molding blending into the Rockblockz, but thats my taste. Either way if you have the Cup 2 on there still, you need something to save the paint

The process is the same except for the side skirts. As bad as I am with doing things like this I managed. Grab yourself some patience and about an hour or two of time (one for each side) and go through the process. Peel back the wheel moldings, remove all the adhesive tape with rubbing alcohol...

check out this thread https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-of-zl1-gt500-side-skirt-extensions-with-rock-guards-and-hp-wheel-lip-moldings.170854/

Yes sir! Looks great in the sun!

Definitely throws a lot of rocks. A suggestion for you that I wish I did was bring some blue painters tape and tape in front of the rear wheels up to door opening to protect that area, which is where I have a few minor chips from my ride home

oh bummer - the injectors from the kit arent large enough to handle additional power? I really am not educated enough on return style fuel systems either. I know the kit came with a new fuel pump

thats impressive on the stock whipple tune! Now youve got me thinking 🤔 Keep the whipple tune for regular street driving and have it professionally tuned for track and/or strip

Wow! Was that the whipple tune?

2.03, UGH! And rolling no less. Plant the rear, and stickier+wider tires needed. It is a nice "streetable feature" not having 500+ lb/ft at 2000 rpm. Nice little drivable rpm range for sure and the boost is never far away if needed

Only 400, thats why Im keeping it under 5500 rpm. The pulley is too large to hear it at all. Maybe the tube will help. You should upgrade the bushings in the rear to mitigate any wheel hop

What plans do you have? I really thought the Whipple would be more like the Roush I had previously, although similar, not the same. Could be because I havent tached past 5500-6000 yet either. The Roush was 2.3 liter and had more boost down low at 2k. I saw someone post someplace that there is a...

The car is amazing! It accelerates so quickly its hard to explain. I am getting used to the slight delay in power. The power starts to throw in the seat at about 3500 rpm. Below that I can drive like its not boosted. Can literally feel the blower begin to boost. Pedal is consistent from 2000 to...

the other thing you'll want to investigate is the rear bushings, etc. to help reduce/eliminate wheel hop. You may have these already or some version of them, like Steeda or perhaps Roush supplies their own. My list below is all BMR parts UCA 762 - camber links adjustable TR005H - toe rod rear...